ZEU36KSK1SS General Electric Cooktop - Instructions

I turned off the circuit breaker and tested the cook top. I pulled the cook top out and laid a piece of plywood over the opening to work on the cook top and not scratch the granite counter top. The mistake I made was to turn the cook top upside down and separate the top from the housing. The dampening springs came off the burners and I could have damaged the elements (but they checked out ok). I turned the whole assembly right side up again and replaced the switch and put it all back together. It works great...thank you for the part.

Turned off power to counter top range and pulled-up from counter. Set range on counter and removed 16 screws from around the housing allowing me to pull-up and remove range top. Used socket to remove 4 screws holding control switch bracket in place and 2 screws holding bad switch in place. Disconnect wires from bad switch and reconnected to new switch. Placed and screwed switch bracket back in place. Before placing range top back I turned power back on to to test burner operation. Burner and switch operated correctly and I completed screwing range top back in place, setting back down into counter top. Done

The burner would work but you could not regulate the heat. I ordered and replaced the control switch for that burner. The part was like for like and reasonably priced compared to other websites and dealer. The picture showed that it was identical. I ordered one day and it was here the next. I had drawn a diagram of where the wires went on the old switch so it was very easy to replace. Probably took me 15 minutes or so. Works perfectly and by buying from this website it saved me a few bucks.

Shut off circuit breaker. Removed cooktop from island counter. Removed all knobs. Removed all screws after finding layout diagrams of unit on your web site. Lifted glass top from metal cabinet. Ordered control after trouble shooting the problem. (Master Electrician). Obviously burned out from water in control. Ordered control on line and installed it when it arrived three days later. Before installing control I cleaned and dried out the area. I cleaned the glass top around all the control shaft holes and the rubber boots and lubricated them with silicone to help keep them dry and for ease of turning controls. Turned on circuit breaker and checked all burners, pilot light and hot top indicating lights.

The hardest part was getting the correct part. I trusted the on line number and the first part I received was incorrect. I should have taken the part number off the old switch. When I did, I found out that the part number changed when I tried to order it. When the part came, the wiring instructions were not even close. I just took one wire at a time off the old switch and put it on the same terminal of the new switch. The repair was/is very simple made complex and too much time because of a wrong part and incorrect wiring instructions. As far as getting the incorrect and correct parts through the mail it was very fast. Received both parts in less than 3 days. A bonus is that I sent the old switch back for a rebate. Thanks for that.

Looked up the part, ordered it, and it was there in 3 days. It was slightly different than the old control, but a very well-written set of instuctions detailed which wires to move to which terminal. The entire repair took about 30 minutes, including moving the range out, replacing the control, and push the range back in place. Works perfectly.

Removed range from cabinets then approximately 6 sheet metal screws from the front of the range and two 1/4" sheet metal screws from the side to remove the front and top of the range. Lifted the cook top removed the two screws from the rotary switch and followed the directions included with switch to connect the wires. In reverse order reassembeled the range.
Quick & Easy

Pull range out of the "hole", and spin so that back of range is accessible. Remove cover over top "control area" on back of range. (Four screws that happen to be the same size as the magnetic socket that holds the interchangeable tip on a cordless screw gun. Simply remove this tip, and use the tip holder as a magnetic nut driver!). Remove the knob by pulling gently straight off. Remove black plastic retaining nut under where knob was. Inside are two small screws that hold the switch in place. Remove these screws with a magnetic screwdriver (If you drop these screws and lose them, you'll have a hard time finding them. Very small!!). Carefully follow enclosed instructions to move the wires from the old switch to the new switch. Put back together in reverse order.

Just note the wire colors and match them where they go on the new control, remove and replace 7 screws and a zip tie and I was done.

June 2019
0. TURNED OFF CIRCUIT BREAKER !!!
1. Lifted cooktop out of counter cutout. (It wasn't anchored)
2. I had just enough slack in the armored power cable to set the cooktop on the edge of the countertop cutout.
3. Removed black plastic control knobs
4. Removed about a dozen short screws around perimeter of cooktop. I think those were phillips head screws.
5. Lifted glass top straight up. Had to wiggle it a bit, to get the rubber washers on the control shafts, to slide up.
6. The new heater element did not have the 2 alignment brackets. These brackets have holes that slip over metal pins at each end. So, I removed the brackets from the old element, and attached them to the new element.
7. Set new heater element on top of old. Using needle nose pliers, pulled wires off of old element and clipped onto new element - ONE AT A TIME.
8. Slide old element out, and place new element brackets over alignment pins.
9. Now, on to the Infinite control switch. Removed a few screws around the metal housing that the controls are attached to.
10. Removed the 2 screws that hold the control to the metal housing.
11. Switched wires from old control to new - ONE AT A TIME. (Pay attention to the position of the wire blades on the control, and align it to match the old control, so that you will get the wires from the old control, onto the correct blades of the new control.)
12. Attached new control to metal housing, using 2 screws.
13. Re-assemble - Place glass top over control shafts.
14. Attach glass top by installing all of those short screws around the perimeter.
15. Place cooktop back into countertop cutout.
16. Turn on the circuit breaker.
17. Test all heating elements.
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Other notes - I actually removed the entire cooktop, including disconnecting the power connection, so that we could replace our kitchen countertop.
One issue was that the new quartz countertop was 3/8" thinner than the old Formica top. So, the bottom of the cooktop was resting 3/8" lower than before. The shallow drawer below the cooktop was now hitting the bottom of the cooktop. My solution was to cut 3/8" off the back of the drawer. Problem solved.
Good luck y'all.

Turn off breaker, disconnect electrical wiring, remove cooktop from courter top, turn over , remove switch.

Not only did we (my wife did help) replace the dual element but afterwards we realized the control switch was not functioning properly and so that was replaced as well, and now our appliance works as intended. Also the instructions, are helpful as well. We used care not to force or over tighten anything and with two sets of eyes and the extra hands everything went much better. Anything that was removed was noted as to it's location and replaced .

it went well as compared to getting a new ~~800$ cooktop and ~~150 to install, I took a shot for 30$ bucks and it worked great!! problem solved and great support ! !! thanks for all your help

I thought it was the burner thermostat, so I replaced the burner unit. By coincidence, the ceramic outer portion of the burner was cracked in two places, but otherwise intact. That was not the problem, though since the new burner did the same thing as the old one. Then I new it was the Infinite Control Switch, so I ordered it. Replacing it was easy. I turned off the cooktop circuit breaker and made sure no power was going to it. It is powered by 240 volts so you need to be very careful to turn off the power before doing any servicing on it. I then carefully pried up the glass cooktop and lifted it out, so it wouldn't break. By taking off the control knobs, and removing several small Phillips head screws all around the metal cooktop frame and just under the edge of the glass cooktop, I could lift the glass top off from the cooktop, and place it on some newspaper so it didn't get broken. It is important to keep the rest of the cooktop upright. The burners are not fastened down, and only gravity holds them in place. They normally sit on two springloaded pins, one on each side, and the weight of the glasstop pushes them down to their proper setting. So don't mess with them, and make sure each side remains on the two pins after you're done and before putting the glasstop back on. As for the switch, you need to remove two small 1/4 inch metal screws (a socket is very handy for this), one on each side of a metal framework that holds all the switches. After removing that framework, I carefully turned it over and found the correct switch for the burner that wasn't working. In my case, it was the closest right hand burner, which is also the biggest and has the option of having a big, small or both elements turned on, depending on how you turn the control switch. I then carefully pulled off each wire lead, with a needlenose plier to avoid damaging them, and immediately put each wire onto the corresponding same connection on the new switch. Take a close look at the wires on the old switch to make sure you plug them into the same connectors on the new switch. It's pretty straightforward. There may have been one or two small screws holding the switch onto the framework, but I don't recall right now. It was very easy to see how to remove and then reattach it. Then reverse the above steps and reinstall the cooktop, turn on the power and you should be in business!

Removed stove top from counter, removed glass top by removing 10 phillps screws, removed control bracked, unplugged connectors(wires) on old control and plugged into the correct position on the new control, replace control on the bracket then reinstalled the stove top and placed the stove top back into counter.