ZET958SM1SS General Electric Wall Oven - Instructions

I checked various sites on the net and decided that the temperature sensor was the problem. The GE price for the replacement part was about $105, most of the other sites offered the sensor in the $70 range. PartSelect $12.95 When the part arrived, I removed a small self taping screw, pulled the high temperature wire connector into the oven space, disconnected the quick disconnect fitting, attached the new temperature sensor, pushed the connecting wire into its hole, replaced the screw and that was it. I probably saved about $200 in parts and labor over what a local repairman would have charged. Oh yes!! I first disconnected the power at the breaker box. Very important.

Sensor is in rear and on top ov oven. What could be a 10" job took 45". My problem was the oven door was diffinately in the way. Also I wear bifocals which makes me tilt head to see nuts. I felt like a contortionist. HINT: remove door and give yourself some room to work.

Took the oven door off and removed the inner door panel, put new glass assembly part in and reassembled. The hard part was getting the door hinges locked back into place.

Removing the oven from the wall to rest on 2 chairs was pretty easy. After that, if I only had to replace the convection heating element at the back of the oven, it would have been a snap.

However, getting access to the main heating element on the bottom of the oven was really difficult. There were no instructions to follow, so one can only look at what is available for similar units online, but my attempts to remove the inner oven shroud on my 14yo wall oven could not be done without major bending.

So, I tried to get to the bottom heating element by removing the bottom of the oven, only to find there to be another layer and another layer, and then insulation that wrapped around the sides below that after taking off the sides.

By the time I finally got to the bottom heating element on my old oven, my patience was gone and I decided the jigsaw puzzle created by this vain effort was not worth putting back together. Better to opt for new technology.

While PartSelect is easy to work with, had I known this project was going to be super difficult, I would never have tried to take the old oven apart. Some engineer needs to be spanked over that design.

Lesson learned on replacing the lower heating element on a wall oven where the unit has to be completely disassembled, don't.

The money spent on freight, fees, and return postage will be chalked up to experience.

1) Shut off power to oven
2) Removed oven door using snap down hinges on door
3) Removed 4-phillips head screws holding the oven frame to cabinets
4) Pulled oven out of cabinet and set it on stool in front of opening
5) Remove 2-hex screws holding metal shield covering the electrical wiring on back of oven
6) Unplugged bad thermostat connector
7) Removed the single hex screw holding thermostat inside the oven
8) Pulled the thermostat and lead wire from oven
9) Fed the new thermostat wire into inside back of oven
10) Reverse steps 1-7

Removed torx screws for door handle as well as torx screws for both hinges to separate the door halves to extract broken glass and to install new glass panel. Other reviews said not to remove hinge screws, however I had no problem reinstalling them.

took bulb out, but new one in lol

RE: 2 yr. old GE double wall oven with convection option in upper oven, non-convection in lower oven: baked goods were not browning, were undercooked or burned. Tested both ovens on regular bake setting using 2 oven thermometers. Set ovens for 350. Although after 10 min both ovens beeped "ready", the oven thermometers actually read 200 - then would swing up as high as 500 and as low as 200 during the 20 min test period. Decided to first replace top oven sensor only, just in case it really was a more expensive control panel problem. It was a bit awkward to reach back there with the oven door in the way, but I have long arms! Aimed my flashlight, removed nuts with a socket wrench, pulled out the sensor, popped the clip and the old sensor easily separated from its connection. Snapped on the new sensor, pushed it back in and reset the nuts. Easy. Set the oven for 350 and tested again with 2 oven thermometers for 45 min. Voila! The oven thermometers read exactly 350 when the oven beeped "ready" and it stayed at 350 throughout the entire 45 min retest period with only a 3 degree variation both up and down. What a great improvement! Immediately went online to Parts Select and ordered another sensor for the bottom oven which was having the same problem. Fixed both ovens all for under $30 - and just in time for Christmas cookies! Don't want to know what the repair guy would have charged.......Merry Christmas!

Turned breaker off at panel first. Removed three sheet metal screws holding top control panel with 8mm socket, removed the two 8mm nuts holding the locking mechanism in and one 8 pin plug, replaced with new part. Put back control panel and I was enjoying homemade oatmeal cookies 30 minutes later. We were using a toaster oven for months until I found the part from this site. The GE repair guy wanted $900.00 to fix it. The part was only $165.00 from this site. Thanks folks!

Threw the old one out - plugged the new one in. Steak came out just as ordered - medium rare.

This item worked as described. I paid more for this 'oem' probe than the generic 1 because i didn't want to chance it not working as others have reported.
- works great. tested it....snaps in, reads correctly, snaps out.

Removed back panel, change out sensor

First of all, there are FOUR panes of glass on the oven door and two different sizes. Make sure you're ordering the right pane. We initially got the wrong one and had to return/reorder.

Took door off hinges and set on table. Removed almost all screws. Two at the top are very long and almost spring loaded -- this was helpful when putting it back together.
When removing the layers, keep track of what/where screws are placed. Some are star-hole-head, some are hex-head (socket). Work slowly and carefully so as not to break additional panes of glass. Leave plenty of room in your workspace to set items aside while you get to the innermost part of the door.

For this part #, it's deep in the door layers and surrounded by fiberglass. Wear gloves so you're not itchy later. This part acts as a double-pane with a narrow aluminum frame around the two pieces of glass. Be careful not to bend the frame when removing the broken piece. One corner of the frame also has a hook-n-hole closure. Take care to not bend the hook too much.

We wiped all the glass pieces off to get all fingerprints, smudges, and baked-on foods removed. Then we put the pieces/parts back -- a lot like a puzzle. Had the oven back up and running with no problems. It may take two people to get the door back on the hinges just because of the weight and awkward position they need to clamp back together.

Followed GE repair video

took out old gasket and inserted new