ZET938BF6BB General Electric Wall Oven - Instructions

I had to remove the oven from the wall because the sensor plug connction is behind the unit. Two screws hold the sensor inside the oven and then I disconnected the lead and pulled the sensor out from the front. I installed the new sensor, tightened the two screws holding it in and connected the lead. Then reinstalled the oven into the wall. Overall, a very easy repair once you get the oven out.

After turning off the breaker to cut power to the oven, I opened the oven door and, using the PartSelect exploded diagram as a guide, I removed 3 screws from the underside of the control panel - I was then able to slide the panel up and out to remove it. Leaving all of the control wires (especially the ribbon) connected to control panel, I saw the fan assembly mounted to the rear of the control box.

I noted the position of the two attached wires - black on top (or left), white on bottom (or right). Using a nutdriver with an extension bar, I unscrewed 4 screws holding the assembly in place. I removed the old fan and installed the new fan in its place. It was necessary to bend the new fan's legs out a bit to get them to line up with the holes. I reconnected the wires as mentioned above, then reinstalled the control panel.

I tested the oven by turning the breaker back on and letting the oven heat up to 450 degrees. The fan turned on as expected. After the oven cooled off, I reinstalled the 3 screws to secure the control panel.

Removed the oven door for easy acces to oven. Unscrewed (philips screwdriver) the screw holding temp sensor in place. Gently pulled the wiring until quick connector was located. Pushed down on locking level on quick connect while holding other end of wiring (so wiring would not fall back behind oven). Connected the new sensor and screwed back in place. Reinstalled oven door. Tested temperature settings by turning on oven and comparing with a separate oven thermometer.

It was much easier than trying to remove the bonded aluminum foil from the false bottom/drip pan. Simply lift and remove oven front door, (see your manual), slide out false bottom and slide in new. For me it did take longer than 15 minutes, but that's because I was doing a thorough oven cleaning. The part was in the $50 range and well worth it. Why didn't anyone ever tell me that you can no longer line the bottom of your oven with aluminum foil?

Spring clips installed on seal just pull off door. New clips get inserted in mounting holes and are pushed in to seat in door. Seal ends slide into door holes.

Replaced old sensor with new one by removing nut screw and carefully pulling sensor cable out of oven back until plastic terminal connection is exposed. Sensor connection has a locking tab that must be pushed in to release sensor connector. Do not allow oven wire to pull back into back of oven until new sensor is connected. Reinstall nut screw and tight to hold new sensor in place. Verify proper oven operation.

After turning the breaker off, using a 1/4 inch nut driver I removed all the clamp screws (5) holding the heating element in place. I then unplugged the element wire spades from the rear of oven and removed the old element. Installing the new one was simply going in reverse order. After plugging the new one in, I did however, use plyers to squeeze the connectors and make the connections tighter. It took a little more back work than I thought because I was leaning over most the time. All in all, I saved a hundred dollar bill in doing this 30 min job myself.

Followed instructions and removed door. Loosened screws/bolts. Pulled the door apart. Removed the bracket that would hold the glass. Removed the broken glass and inserted the replacement glass. Re-assembled the door and reinstalled the door. Took all of 20 mins.

After reviewing the potential causes for the error code, I decided I'd try to change out the temp sensor. Using the ohmeter, I saw the difference immediately between the old and new sensor. The sensor is accessed from the back of the stove, and must be slide out to gain access to the rear panel. Since the stove I have is a built in, removing the stove and the access panel was the hardest part of this repair. Resetting the glass control panel was also a bit tricky to calibrate the touch sensitive buttons. Good luck.

Wait until oven is cold. Turn off power to the oven at the breaker panel (confirm: clock will be off). Open oven door. Remove upper rack. Unscrew glass cover over lamp and socket (it only turns one direction and may be tight). Slide cover off lamp socket. Remove old lamp - pull straight down. Install replacement lamp. Lamp pins line up front to back. Do not touch the lamp - use latex gloves. Make sure the lamp is fully pushed into its socket. Replace the glass cover by centering it on the socket with glass retaining tabs close to the matching areas on the metal socket. Take care not to damage the lamp. Turn the cover to lock in place. Make sure it is locked. Replace oven rack. Turn the power back on.

Pull the old one put in the new one ... took about 20 minutes

Just pulled out the old one and pushed in the new one. Very easy. I was afraid to run this self-cleaning oven until I installed the new gasket. It worked perfectly.

Made triple sure electricity off. GE designed excellent access to box above oven. Remove three bolts above oven door on bottom of control panel. Slightly raise panel to take off control panel, let hang by wires. Fan in back wall behind panel and has two wires that unplug, four screws to remove. Plug in new fan, input 4 screws. Partselect excellent guide to make sure correct part was ordered, and very timely delivery. $85.00 part instead of $1500.00 new oven. Tip - Note that fan burns out when auto clean turned on. Stop doing that and problem doesn't repeat.

lift door off and remove racks take out old sensor. one word of advise when pulling old sensor out tie a string around connector coming out of oven if it slips out of yor hand it could fall through hole iif you dont have a string attached you pull the whole oven out of wall to acess it

I unfastened the three 1/4" rear screws, then the two support screws on top. I pulled the old element out,( plenty of slack wire luckily). disconnected it from the bayonet-type connections, then attached the new element. I secured the new element using the 1/4" screws. Bingo!

Disconnect the power to the oven at the main breaker panel. Open the oven door to the first stop (not all the way open) and pull straight up to remove the oven door from the hinge. Using a 1/4" drive ratchet with 1/2" extension with 1/4" socket, remove the 1/4" sheetmetal screw holding the temperature probe at the center of the broiler mounting plate. Remove the two 1/4" screws holding the broiler mounting plate. Remove the two 1/4" screws holding the broiler element at the ceiling of the oven. Pull the broiler element out from the back of the oven and there should be two electrical connectors at the back of the broiler element. Pull the electrical connectors off of element. Replace the element and re-install in reverse order.