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Sample Model Number Tags
Model numbers can be made up of numbers (1005400, for example) or a combination of letters and numbers (LAT1000AAE). The model number will most likely appear on either a paper sticker or a metal plate. Your appliance's model number tag may look similar to the sample model number tags shown here (model number highlighted in yellow):
The OEM bearing, also known as the flange bearing, is silver, made of metal, and sold individually. It is used on riding mowers to secure the wheel in place and allow it to rotate freely on the shaft....
$9.50
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The Ring Klip Number T5304-75, also known simply as a ring clip, is an OEM part designed to secure your mower wheel to its axle.
This part is black, made of metal, and around an inch in length. It i...
$6.15
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This part is the replacement washer head screw for your lawn tractor. It is black in color and is approximately an inch and a half in length. This self-threading screw is most commonly used for securi...
$4.13
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This OEM washer, also known as a flat washer, has dimensions of 25/32 x 1-1/4. Silver in color and metal, the washer is sold individually. Although this part can have a range of applications depending...
$4.13
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This genuine black cap axle, also sometimes known as the dust cap, is around 2 inches in diamater and sold individually. Comprised of plastic, it is designed to keep debris out of the hub and axle of ...
$6.15
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This ground drive fixed idler pulley is for lawn tractors.
910 inch offset
Ground drive fixed idler pulley helps apply tension to the drive belt, allowing the belt to turn.
Wear work gloves to...
$14.16
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This flat idler pulley is a genuine OEM replacement part for use in outdoor power equipment. It is made of plastic and features a metal bore adapter, and a radial-style single row bearing. The pulley ...
$14.16
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This ignition switch is an OEM replacement part found near the steering wheel or dashboard in lawn tractors and riding mowers. The switch has four symbols on the top side which indicate its various fu...
$22.71
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This OEM hardened washer spreads load under the bolts of your lawn tractor. It is silver, made of metal, and is sold individually. Over time, the washer may become damaged due to wear and fatigue, and...
$5.16
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Questions And Answers for YTH21K46
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Removed old clip removed rim from tractor, removed grease fitting on rim, took hammer and screw driver knocked out old bushing turned rim over knocked out other bushing. Press in new bushings reinstalled grease fitting slide tire back on tractor, put retaining washers on then locking clip put on dust cover grease at grease fitting. Repeat
... Read more other side.
The drive belt literally goes from the back of the tractor to the front. The mower must be removed, helps to have the tractor up on blocks to give adequate room for work on underside. Belt goes easiest on the engine first, then thread to the rear, install on the rear, (driven pulley) then on the idlers. Check to assure that it function
... Read mores properly before re-installing the mower. If you have the owners manual, there is a diagram, (check your orientation, it is not clear if it is a birdseye or under tractor view) which offered some help. When replacing belt, check the transaxle front mount, mine was broken which is why the belt came off in the first place. Repairing the mount was quite a job in itself, but now works fine.
ALL VIDEOS and the official Husqvarna instructions will tell you that you MUST remove both the mowing deck and the entire clutch pulley assembly to switch the transmission drive belt. This is NOT true. It takes some effort and tight maneuvering, but this job can be done relatively quickly without removing either. You do NOT have to rem
... Read moreove the mowing deck! You do NOT have to remove the clutch pulley assembly! What I did was to stand the tractor up nearly vertical, resting it against a golf cart I have and tying it in place for safety. Then, you have to loosen two black belt guides right by the clutch pulley assembly. I did NOT remove them, just left them hanging loose. Next, there is a silver bar that comes in from the outside of the mower chassis and attaches directly to the clutch, remove this entirely. Next, there is an electrical cord assembly in the way, trace this back, find where it plugs in, and unplug it. Next, in order to be able to slide the belt fully over the clutch pulley assembly, you have to take the mower deck belt off of JUST THE ONE spindle closest. I tie wrapped it in place after getting it off the spindle so that I could easily put it back onto the spindle as the last step when done. Once the mowing deck belt is off the closest spindle, you can then slide the drive belt completely over the clutch pulley assembly. You can then easily remove the entire drive belt, taking note (I took pictures) of how it is routed. Then, just reverse all of this. I began by fitting the drive belt over the clutch pulley assembly to make sure that end was correct. I then put the previously mentioned two guides, silver bar, and electrical cord back in place. Next, I shoved the belt down where it goes, working it down towards the transmission and routing it correctly. Of course, it is a little difficult with the limited space available, but I would rather do that then needlessly take the entire mowing deck off. You finally have to CAREFULLY slide it over the PLASTIC fan blades on the transmission. Once past those, it slides easily in place. The last step is to put the mowing deck belt that you previously removed and tie wrapped in place back onto the spindle. That's it! Only takes about 30-45 min. done this way.