YMMV4205DH2 Maytag - Instructions

The nightmare was that this microwave is installed under the cabinet....in order to get to the light bulb I had to pull out my stove then squeeze into the space between the stove and counter....my old microwave light bult was much easier to change.....Shame on Whirlpool for making this so difficult.....must be a better way to cover the light bulb so that we do not need a screwdriver to remove the door to get to the light bulb

Ordered top & bottom micro-switches and mounting plate parts. Internet reviews could not find specifics if the issue was due to a top/bottom or combination of micro-switch or mounting plate failure. Pulled the plug. Removed the top vent assembly cover held in by 2 Phillips screws inside the vent. Removed the control panel held in by 1 Phillip screw at the top vent assembly area. Lifted control panel upward to release the catch and moved it off to the side - didn't disconnect any leads. Used a Torx bit to remove the door switch mounting plates at the front and pulled the plates through the opening from the control panel. Documented the wire color code connections, the top plate uses 2 micro's with one using both the closed & open contact. Installed the respective micros on the mounting plates and worked backwards with the wiring and removal steps. Once completed, the open/close sensing has worked every time.

Removed 1 screw, removed "burnt out" bulb and replaced it with new bulb.

Unless you have a very comfortable background with electronics and electricity, I don't necessarily recommend taking apart a microwave. If you are very handy and are going to be VERY cautious to follow the rules of discharging caps and testing voltages before moving forward, then go for it. That said, I took the microwave off and apart. Not knowing where to find the parts, I was fortunate that the installer put the instruction book for the microwave inside the front vent slot above the touchpad for reference. it details the location of every part and it tells you very clearly what each part you test should show specific to this microwave on your multimeter. Find this guide online if you don't have it. Turn on the microwave for 20 seconds with a glass of water to make sure it's not heating - that with the noise means it's eeither the magnetron, cap, or diode. Read the notes on this site for all of the basic things to look for with the magnetron, diode, and capacitor. Once comfortable with the guide, locations of those devices, and how to test, then take it down and apart. Unfortunately, I didn't do all those things in that order, and it only wasted a lot of time trying to find the parts. Once I found the parts and put all the screws and covers back for all the areas that didn't need to be accessed for the repair, testing went quickly. The diode was bad. Ordered a new one and had it in 3 days or so. That means your microwave will be apart and sitting somewhere for a little while until you get the part and have time to repair it. Putting the diode back isn't too bad. Reassemble the microwave and put it back up again. If i had to do it again, it would take me 20 to 30 minutes once the microwave was down and on a table. Also, I used some bricks with towels over them or you could use some sawhorses to keep the microwave elevated so you can plug it in and run it after installing the new component. Again, make sure you discharge the cap before touching anything again even if you didn't run it, but just plugged it in.

I turn off the income electricity by shutting down the corresponding circuit breaker. Then, I removed the control panel from the microwave which gave me access to the capacitor and adjacent diode. After that i unscrewed the defective diode and replaced it with the new one and BINGO!

My unit is a wall mount/cabinet/built-in model. The repair is actually fairly simple once you determine that the actual microwave is just a component of the entire unit, and that it (the microwave) can be easily removed from the unit. I did not figure this out until after I removed the entire unit (disconnect the power supply, lift the entire bulky, heavy unit out of the cramped space in the cabinet, etc). Once I got it out I figured out how easy it is to remove the actual oven - a couple of screws, literally. The unit is a bit bulky, but not particularly heavy and is quite manageable. I did this entire process alone.

I got the oven out, rolled it on it's side and found the plate to access the motor. The plate is located on the bottom/underside of the unit. The plate is nothing more than a section of the underside of the metal housing that has been cut-out as an access point. This "cut-out" is not complete - that is, not completely cut out so as to all the plate to stay in place without the need for screws, etc, until you actually have to use it. I used a pair of dykes to cut the couple of points still connecting this plate, removed the two phillips screws to remove the motor, disconnected the two wires connected, then reversed to complete the repair. You then flip the cut-out plate over/rotate it, and some screw holes line up. Find a couple of small screws, and re-attach the plate to cover the motor.

The actual fix is really easy, again, once you figure out the simple way to remove the oven. I am an idiot, so you will probably find this much easier. I could probably do this repair now, after my experience, in less than 30 minutes (probably less than 15 minutes). I probably save a couple hundred $ by doing it myself so was well worth the time to do it. Good luck.

removed two screws,lowered the glass shield,removed the burned out bulb and replaced it with the new one. I ordered the bulb from parts select and recieved it two days later. It was a pleasure to deal with them, and certainly use them again.

Unplugged the microwave to de-energize the unit. Removed 1 screw and the shroud on the range hood light; removed the light bulb. Removed 4 screws from each side and the front of the metal plate on the underside of the unit. Carefully lowered the plate to expose the light socket. Noted which wire was connected to each terminal (they are color-coded), then released the spring clip connectors from the terminals. Removed the 1 screw holding the socket in place then reversed the procedure to install the replacement parts.

I had some difficulty removing the glass plate because of the awkward (upside down) position of the screw that retained it. After replacing the burned out bulbs and replacig the glass plate the problem of replacing the screw involved my dropping the thing several times before I got the screw threads to catch. I got a screw thread to catch enough to hold the glass plate in position and left it at that.

Removed top vent panel....black plastic runs the length of the microwave....3 Phillips screws. Removed front right panel one Phillip screw on top right. Lift up to remove lifts off the catches. Unplug some of plug connectors on the back of the control circuit board to have room to swing it out of the way to gain access to the interlock switches. Take pictures of all disconnections and wire connectors removed from switches. There or two interlock banks of switches my problem was the top one. Remove the switch bracket held in with one star drive screw and a plastic catch on the switch bracket actuator...there is a slot in the frame the actuator slides into. Replace switches and reverse procedure to reassemble.

Replaced both switches on the top door latch. Diagram shows the two switches on the lower latch? No success. Still had same message on the display. Replaced lower switch, fixed the issue.

The hard part was trying to find the light bulb locally. The locally sold light bulbs were either too long, not dual element or not powerful enough. So I ordered the light bulb straight from PartSelect. When it came time to install the new light bulb I carefully removed the screw holding the plate in position so as not to loose it in my gas stove. I needed the mirror to line up the light bulb and screw it in. Once it was in I verified operation and closed up the plate being careful not to drop the screw into my gas stove. Problem solved.

Read some instructions and easily found the fuse. Replaced it. Still didn't work. Took control panel off to check door switches. Nothing I read mentioned a second fuse. Tested and it to had blown. Ordered another one. Popped them in. Done.

Remove two screws from Vent Grille, one on either side, and remove one screw inside Vent Grille on right side. Pull Vent Grille off exposing the two Charcoal filters. Remove the two Charcoal filters by hand and replace with new ones. Reinstall the Vent Grille and tighten screws. That's it. I'm not handy (ask my wife) and if I can do it so can you.

Whirlpool Microwave was purchased as used item, so installation in a new location required purchase of mounting template, wall bracket, mounting hardware. Granite backsplash cut out using wet/dry diamond blade and Ryobi 6.5 inch saw. Microwave exhaust fan removed and rotated for upward exhaust using modified exhaust plenum from existing stove exhaust hood. Installation of Microwave was the simplest part of the job. All mounting materials worked as required. A list of the materials provided in the hardware mount kit would be helpful, I would not have had to order the top mount screws separately if it was clear that they were included in the kit. Otherwise, no complaints.