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YMED9800TB0 Maytag Dryer - Instructions

All Instructions for the YMED9800TB0
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Dryer starts with loud squeak initially. Eventually there was a loud clank and dryer stopped.
Rather than remove the front panels, door, control panel and drum, I noticed 1/4" metal screws on the back panel. There were approximately 6 holding the back panel in place. I did have to remove the top panel as well before removing the back. Once removed I had complete access to the broken idler pulley assembly. I immediately saw the broken pulley. I installed the new one with very little effort. Reset the belt according to instructions from the video. Reassembled, plugged in, hit start and enjoyed the sweet sounds of success. All told it took me about 20 minutes from start to finish.
Parts Used:
Idler Pulley with Bracket Idler Pulley
  • Victor from HOUSTON, TX
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
15 of 16 people found this instruction helpful.
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seal for lint filter came off
Pulled out the old and slid in the new filter
Parts Used:
Lint Filter
  • John from Midland, TX
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
17 of 23 people found this instruction helpful.
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Dryer would not turn
My dryer starter squeaking in December 09 and the repairman told me that it would cost between $200-$500. I did not let him fix it as this machine is only 3 years old. When the part finally broke in April 10, I was ready to junk this and just buy a used dryer. My husband went on line and quickly figured out the part he would need to do the repairs. It cost under $20.00. Now my dryer is fixed and running and there are no squeaks. Thank you
Parts Used:
Idler Pulley
  • Kim K from Hurst, TX
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
15 of 18 people found this instruction helpful.
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Door Catch was broken
I just inserted the door catch, which by the way fit in perfectly. Thanks. Took 5 seconds to repair.
Parts Used:
Door Catch Kit
  • Inocencio from Edinburg, TX
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
14 of 15 people found this instruction helpful.
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Dryer tumbled but would not heat
Used socket set to remove the two hex-head screws from the bottom flange of the toe panel. Manually pulled the panel out at the bottom, pulled down, and removed the panel. Looked to right and found heater shield. Removed heather shield using socket set. Removed the two wires from the terminal block (had to use a little WD40 to loosen connection and wiped up afterwards). Removed the holding screw holding the heating element using the socket set. Pulled HARD on old heating element using pliers and a rag (protection from accidental cut-sharp edges). Once out, the new element slid in relatively easy. Screwed the new element back into place and re-connected the element wires, then put the heater shield back into place. Put the toe panel back into place. Tested and worked great! The only thing that made this "easy" but not "really easy" is that I had to really pull HARD on the old element to get it out...with the sharp edges and tight fit in play, you'll need to pay attention to safety when removing the old element.
Parts Used:
Dryer Heating Element
  • LARRY from NEWNAN, GA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Socket set
13 of 13 people found this instruction helpful.
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Flashing E1 code for a bad thermistor
I replaced the thermistor earlier, but the code was still flashing. I noticed the heater terminals were charred and pretty well covered in carbon. So, I replaced the heater, the thermostat and thermal fuse and replaced the 3/8" spade terminals on the heater wires. (These are hard to find - most electrical spades terminals are .250. Also, I crimped and soldered these for a connection with the lowest resistance possible). After all that, the code still flashed! I let the explatives fly, calmed down, and ran the control board test. (This is done by pressing "more time" "less time" "more time" "less time" in succession.) The control board was passing all the tests, but the thermistor test, and the only thing is in this circuit is the thermistor, the wires, the connector to the control board, and some circuit on the control board that involves a few resistors and the "brain" chip. So, I checked the terminals at the thermistor, the wires up to the control board and the connector at the board. The control board connector was fairly dust encrusted, so I unplugged it, cleaned the control board terminals and sucked away all the lint and dust. Finally, I carefully removed earch crimp terminal from the Molex connector (the white female connector) and cleaned and bent them to yield a better connection to the terminals on the control board. I put it all back together, and thus far it is working fine.
Parts Used:
High Limit Thermostat and Thermal Cut-Off Kit
  • John from Cedar Rapids, IA
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
17 of 25 people found this instruction helpful.
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Dryer gasket detached from screen
Received in two days, open box, installed part. Pretty easy, fast service. I'm a repeat customer and will use these guys in the future.
Parts Used:
Lint Filter
  • Richard from Duarte, CA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
14 of 17 people found this instruction helpful.
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Moisture sensors need replacement
Inside the dryer tub, remove the filter housing by removing two phillips head screws. Unplug the sensor wires, note when replacing wires, black wire goes on upper sensor.
Separate filter grill from housing. Using the pliers, compress the tabs on the sensor plugs and push it thru the grill. The small blade screwdriver may come in handy here to pry up on sensor to assist in pulling the plug end through the grill. Replace the sensors by hooking short end into grill and pushing the long end through the grill. When replacing the housing to the dryer, the most difficult thing is getting the screwdriver onto the recessed screws. Be sure to put the tab on top of the housing under the dryer frame when rotating the assembly into place.
Parts Used:
Moisture Sensor
  • Jack from JONESBORO, AR
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
14 of 17 people found this instruction helpful.
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dryer door would not latch
my dryer door didn't latch for over a year. We were accustom to proping large objects against it. a friend told me to look on line. The close up pictures and parts diagrams were awesome. It was here in 4 days . Now my family thinks I am a hero. The end
Parts Used:
Door Catch
  • Robert from Livermore, ME
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
13 of 15 people found this instruction helpful.
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Rear dryer drum seal came out
Used my Whirlpool Dryer User Instructions Manual and followed instructions and used the Cabinet Parts page to see the diagrams.
Parts Used:
Dryer Drum Seal with Adhesive
  • William from Pontiac, MO
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    More than 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers, Socket set
16 of 28 people found this instruction helpful.
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When using the dryer the cycle would stop and display E1 as the reason
Unscrewed the bottom panelof the dryer and located the thermistor through the schematic for my machine. Removed the old one and put the new one in the same way. No more E1 problems and all cycles now complete themselves.
Parts Used:
Thermostat, Internal-Bias
  • Joyce from Holbrook, NY
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
12 of 17 people found this instruction helpful.
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my dryer would not heat up any longer
I had already taken the coil out of the heating housing to check for a break in the heating element. I took this time to vacuum out all the lint inside the cabinet. I slid the new coil into the housing and reattached the wires. Plugged the dryer back in and turned it on to make sure the coil heated up. It worked so I put all the screws back in and fastend the front back on and were in bussiness!
Parts Used:
Dryer Heating Element
  • Chris from Great Bend, KS
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
10 of 11 people found this instruction helpful.
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no heat
unplugged from elect power.took off front lower panel.removed heater heat shield w/1/4 in nut driver,could see heat element. it looks like at thin metal twisted phone cord. i used a continuity tester to establish if there was a break in it. there was. i removed 2 1/4in screws on the right side of the element,marked wire placement slid out old element & slid in new one put screws back in connected wires,put heat shield back on . tested dryer ,ok good to go put on front cover.!!!!! PS sears parts wanted 15$ more
Parts Used:
Dryer Heating Element
  • Hal from Edgewater, FL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
9 of 9 people found this instruction helpful.
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Wouldn't heat
My husband said it was very easy and quick. We will recomend your site for sure.
Parts Used:
Dryer Heating Element
  • Lorraine from Elk Grove, CA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Wrench (Adjustable)
10 of 12 people found this instruction helpful.
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gasket came off lent filter
i could not find this part anywhere locally,so i found this web site which had this part.i ordered this part and am very glad i did.i received it in 2 days.thank you very much.if you need anything check this place first,you will be very satisfied.
Parts Used:
Lint Filter
  • stephen from langley, KY
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
11 of 15 people found this instruction helpful.
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All Instructions for the YMED9800TB0
31 - 45 of 296