YMED6400TB0 Maytag Dryer - Instructions

First I unplugged the dryer, then removed the back panel, this exposed most all of the wiring and I could see the heater coils.
Not knowing what the problem was I started looking at the coils and could not see any broken parts.
So then checked the thermal fuse for continuity I removed the two wires from it with a small pair of needle nose pliers, it was held in place by two screws, once they were removed the fuse came out easily, I checked continuity with a volt meter placing the meter on X1 Ohms and could not get a reading.
I replaced with a new one and put it all back together the way I took it apart.
Then I plugged it in and it worked first time, I now have warm dry clothes.

Cleaning the lint out of the whole machine took quite a bit of time--it was everywhere. Underneath the lint trap was a collection that ultimately ruined the thermal fuse where it restricted the air flow considerably.

Ascertaining the problem was the most time consuming part.

The actual repair was quite simple and didn't take but 15-20 minutes.

I started to repair this and got busy and ended up calling a repair service -- that was the first time. They repaired it for over $200 and said the cause was bad venting. I fixed the vent before using the fixed dryer but it blew again. So I ordered these parts and replaced them myself for a lot of savings. However, the dryer still overheated. Through lots of testing I found the root cause the repairman missed: The heating element had gotten so hot that the assembly holding it warped, hitting the element and shorting it. So a new element is on order. I still needed the parts I ordered here but the overall repair ended up more complicated and expensive. I was disappointed a paid repair person left without further diagnosis. If he had unplugged the vent and checked the heat on the exhaust vent (as I ended up doing) it would have been obvious more than a new thermal fuse/thermistor was necessary. Instead I wasted over $200 on his visit. So my advice is if you're at all handy, repair this yourself. The dryer has a service manual inside the front toe board that walks you through most diagnostics and tests. However, it took a little more than that for me to discover the heating element problem. This was a very dangerous situation that could have easily led to a fire, yet not found by a trained technician!

Grow a second set of hands. Always unplug any appliance. Remove lint screen. remove two screws (philips Head). I took a wooden shim lightly tapped w/hammer to pop front of dryer top free. Mine worked on hinges and just flipped back til it rested against the wall. Removed two 5/16 screws inside holding face on carefully raise face section off the support clips at either side on the bottom. Pull drum out (I have the large style drum commercial size [approx.). Clean the inside free of all lint (known to be fire hazard). Sling new belt around drum. Get newly grown set of hands to hold drum in place. Pinch belt to fit between tensioner, lift tensioner and place belt around motor pulley. Spin drum couple times to make certain belt isn't twisted. Reverse dismantle proccess to put back together. Replace all parts that come with kit, you'll feel better knowing you got a new dryer, almost.

After a few years of slamming the dryer door (at least that is what my husband says), the catch on the dryer door broke. Using pliers (I used needle nose) squeeze the outer edges of the catch together (vertically). With it compressed, it should slide out easily. My husband had jacked with ours prior to the repair, so the broken piece in the door was actually sideways and would not fit through the hole. Using a screwdriver, I pushed that piece into the door (it lives in the door somewhere now). I was then able to slide out the rest of the old catch. Compress the new catch and insert it into the hole in the door. Push it in until it clicks into place. DONE! Happy Drying!

couldn't get blower wheel off of the motor. really tight. rounded off the wheel's square hub while trying to hold it still as I turned the motor shaft out. No, I wasn't turning it the wrong way :) I ended up going to the back of the dryer and using the multimax to quickly cut the wheel away from the hub. I love that oscillating saw! Just for fun, I put the motor in a bench vise and got the wheel hub off (in pieces). VERY tight! Ordered new wheel, and the job was smooth sailing from there on. I am guessing that experienced repair people automatically order the motor and blower wheel at the same time(?) BTW both parts were perfect matches for the originals. Not surprised; this has always been my experience with partselect.com!

1st Unpluged power.
2nd removed two screws under lint screen cover.
3rd poped up lid with flathead screwdryer, then removed (2) 5/16 screws from door cover and unpluged lid switch, lifted up dryer door pannel
4th removed drum
5th took out plastic triangle wheel rings
6th removed old belt guild (to motor pully)
7th removed old wheels and plastic rings stops
8th cleaned excessive hair dust with shopvac
9th put new replaicment part in dryer. made sure to turn manually to make sure belt was lined up properly, then put all dryer peices back.
10th aditional work, took back cover off and removed the (4) 1/4 screws for lint screen case (left side in dryer) vacumed out any excessive dirt lint ect, also cleaned any excessive dust I found in back of dryer, dryer , exhaust ect, and put all back together.
JUst like a new dryer aain after all PM was complete.

1. disconnect power,gas and vent lines
2. pop off top of unit
3. remove front of dryer
4. lay unit on its back
5. remove drum and replace pulley assembly,belt,drum rollers of which it has 2 rear and 2 front
6. reverse above and then remove filter-vent housing and scrape off old seal install new seal
7. re-connect power,gas and vent use again
8. only sad part to whole job was seeing how cheaply whirlpool now makes thier products

Great! Spent about $36.00 and I ended up with a overhauled dryer. I ended up cleaning the whole thing out, it's amazing how much stuff accummulates in the frame of a dryer, I also found about $2.00 in change. It's a good idea to clean out a dryer every few years and the broken belt forced me to do it.
But anyway the parts cam very quick and had easy to follow directions.
I would reccomend part select. Matt

actually i found your site before i even looked at the dryer,thats how i knew to check for the thermal fuse.
I ordered the part and it was on my door in 36
hours,pulled the two wires off the old fuse and installed the new,put the back cover on and it has been working ever since,thanks ( your in my bookmarks)

After looking at the schematic to see what was in line with the motor, I found the fuse as the first item. I pulled the fuse out and used a multimeter to ohm out the fuse. Upon using the meter I found that the fuse was bad. I typed into Google my part number that was on the fuse and the PartSelect Website came up as one of the choices to pick from. When the part arrived approx. two days later I installed the fuse by first unplugging the dryer and then removing the bottom panel and removing the fuse from the exhaust by using a small 1/4 inch wrench and pulling out the old fuse. I installed the wires on the new fuse and re-installed and put the 1/4 inch screw back in. I started the dryer after plugging it back in and it worked like it should have. Thank you for the part and I have recommended your website to other people already.

My 14 year old son did it as I supervised! Pulled the dryer out on a dolly, unpluged the dyer, removed 9 hex head screws to remove the back cover, removed and replaced the thermal fuse, located next to the exhust outlet, set the cover back on, moved the dryer back in with the dolly. I had the thermal fuse over nighted to me for a total price of $35, figured I saved at least $150 on a service call by Whirpool.

super fast shipping, got the part in two days, and had it done in 15-20 min, remove the front pannel, remove the belt and tenssioner,took the drum out , took the old rollers , lubed the shafts,replaced the old rollers with the new ones, intalled the drum back, the tenssioner and the new belt, reinstalled the front pannel, and done...easy and fast job, like new dryer, works nice...save some money...the new one will do the same..just dry the clothes.

This product comes in a bottle with a brush like Liquid Paper. It goes on incredibly easy. A second coat might be needed. I wanted to prevent rust from setting in so I covered the scratches and dings. The paint is a little brighter since my washer is 10 years old but it still looks great.

The repair was fairly easy. The most timely part of the repair was removing the twelve screws from the back panel to expose the repair.