YKGST307HW9 KitchenAid Range - Instructions

Original bumper pads NOT glued into the burner grates. Hence they began to disappear during routine use and cleaning. Very simple repair with a little glue this time around. But fairly expensive for a very small part set

Removed back upper cover, unscrewed retaining screw from module. As noted in a comment from another do-it-yourselfer, I replaced screw with a longer one and reinstalled module. Note that the replacement part is not exactly the same as the old one(the wires are located differently), I noted the wire color codes with the slot number and reinstalled them in the same slot number. Works fine.

We replaced the part. It was pretty quick and easy to install.

Had already removed back covers and disconntedted power. When io received parts I replaced them in reverse oder I had removed them. Took me longer to replace back covers because of my bad diabetic hands. Thanks very much, yopu savbed me a bunch. God bless you and yours, god bless america.

Read all others' directions and suggestions. Screw loosening spray was essential to remove the bracket holding the broken piece. Print out the blow-up showing parts from website. Read directions on removing and replacing door in original manual. Lay oven door on counter top front side up with hinges hanging over edge. I prefer a manual screwdriver - less risk of stripping screws. Start by removing screws at bottom edge. Next, side strips and then top piece with handle. Removing layers, being careful to keep them in order and turned the right way. Note the center piece of glass is held in place only by the parts around it so everything has to be tight and aligned. Put back together in reverse order with replacement glass part. My 10+ year old oven is as good as new. BTW I am a 67 year old woman.

Been looking for grate pads for 10 years and finally found you site and part # WPL 814323.
Wasn't sure that they would fit but couldn't even find new grates so decide to try them --Fit perfect.
Kitchen aide stove top gas with round grates. Used the drill to clean out the holes with broken pads still embedded.With clean holes the new pads just screwed in like the originals. Thank you very much

I had to remove the oven control panel to expose the ignitors. I had to remove the ignitors py pulling on each one then disconnecting them from the conectore. I reversed the order to replace them.

I read all the repair stories here. They gave me the courage to try it. I pulled the oven door out and up. I placed the door HANDLE SIDE UP on a pad on a table. I removed the screws from the bottom and sides and began disassembly. First the bottom, then sides. I came apart easily, I set the insulation aside, then removed the screws and bracket holding the glass. I cleaned all the parts and glass. I replaced the glass and insulation and put it back together in reverse order. I put the drill/driver clutch on low so as not to strip any screws. I checked for tightness with a hand screwdriver. I re-attached the door to the oven by pushing both tabs into oven simultaneously. It took a couple of tries. In all, the fix It wasn't too difficult. I was able to handle it all myself except that my wife helped with cleaning the parts and glass. Now it looks like new again.

cleaned out pad area with an awl. then the pads just slide in.

Removed all terminals and block mounting screws. Repaired one burnt terminal and reassembled. Replacement part was an exact fit and reassembly whnet very well.

Removed broken glass cover and bulb, cleaned old gasket off with damp cloth and replaced with new bulb, glass cover and gasket. No tools needed.

I didn't. Don't know how to get to light bulb to change it for this specific model

Repair was very straightforward. Based on information gathered from an earlier post about the same repair I simply removed all screws from the oven door. These were all located on the bottom edge of the door itself. Upon removal of the screws the door separated and exposed the "core" where I then had access to the hinges which were held in by one screw each. I removed the broken hinge, replaced it with the new hinge, pieced the door back together, put back all the screws, and the repair was complete.

1. Turn off Gas at valve under cooktop. Unplug electric to igniters. 2. Remove all control knobs. 3. Remove grates and burner covers. 4. Remove screws from each burner head (10 screws) 5. lift and remove cooktop cover. 6. Reach under cabinet and push up main cooktop body (about 4 or 5 inches) and BLOCK. 7. AT FRONT OF COOKTOP REMOVE 2 philips screws holding burner strip. Slightly lift burner strip enough to get short handle philips under screw holding igniter (Be gentle as gas line is still connect and will give enough so as not to have to disconnect them. 8. Remove and replace igniter. 9. Reverse procedures above.

Unscrewed about 10 screws to disassemble the door to get at the hinge then screw new hinge in. Was inspired by the woman who said she did it while watching a child. I saved $200 in the repair fee I was quoted