YKERS205TW2 KitchenAid Range - Instructions

Removed the oven door by opening slightly, then pic door up to remove. Remove 2 screws holding oven sensor in place, gently pull on sensor to remove, had to remove about 8 inches to get at plastic connector. Unplug connector, had to use an adapter cable supplied with the PartSelect kit to install new sensor, push cable back into opening, reinstall 2 screws. The oven works fine! Note that due to thermal lag the temperature overshoots to 370 degrees and undershoots to 340 degrees, this appears to be normal oven operation. Putting door back in place was easy.

Turned the breaker off, I removed 2 screws securing the range top to the range, opened the top and secured it in the up position, Removed the 2 screws securing the element ,one at a time I swapped the quick connectors from the old element to the new and repeated the process in reverse. I save over $100.00 in labor, plus most companies get you for a trip charge. It was easy!!

First and MOST IMPORTANTLY, I located the breaker switch for my oven and turned it off. I verified this by noticing that the electric clock on the oven display was no longer powered.

After removing all the oven racks, I removed the two screws at the bottom of the back end of the oven holding the metal "floor" in place.

Removing the "floor" cover exposed the old heating element and I was able to quickly identify the corrosion of the old heating element which caused it break.

I unscrewed the two screws attaching the heating element to the bottom of the oven, then there was another screw attaching the back of the heating element to the back wall of the oven.

I had to pull the element towards me with a decent amount of force. This is the "quick and dirty" way of getting the job done, because I didn't want to have to find a way to pull my entire oven out from the wall of my kitchen in order to gain access to the back panel. Eventually with enough pulling, the two wires came through the holes with the gator clips still attached to the element (good! it would not have been fun if one of those came off too soon). Incidentally, a bit of fiberglass insulation also came through the holes. It didn't seem to be a big deal, I just discarded the fluff.

I detached the gator clips from the old heating element and removed it. It had a fair amount of black carbon residue (I assume) so you might want to wear gloves for this part or at least have a paper towel handy to clean your hands up.

Just follow the same directions in reverse the get the new element in. Hook up the gator clips, shove them through the two holes in the back of the oven, remount all the screws, remount the oven "flooring" and screw it back in. Before replacing the flooring, you may want to try turning on your oven to ensure it gives a nice pretty orange glow. Of course don't forget to let it cool down before proceeding, if you do that!

Don't think you have to be an expert to do this one. I was able to diagnose and fix this problem without any prior oven repair situations under my belt.

turned off power
removed ceran top from cabinet
removed element
installed new element
replaced top
powered up and was done

Thermal switch is integral to element and can not be changed, must replace entire element.

Turn off power. Removed front two screws above oven door jamb and lifted the top. Removed the bracket that holds the element against the glass top and removed the element. Moved brackets from old element to new one, aligning to same numerical position and then moved wiring to new element. Slide new element under bracket and reinstalled single screw. Replaced top and screwed down. Turn on power and test .

I numbered every part. ex: 1 L., for first part removed left side. I used a magic marker to circle the holes and wrote the number of screws used on the part, set the srews in a separete place, so that I new where these screws went to. The cleanup was pretty time consuming, but I was able to keep my stove, when every repairman I called to fix my stove told me I was better off buying a new stove. ($600.00 stove 2 years old)Please Note: The insulation blanket needed for the entire stove is two pieces, the sides and top are one part # and the bottom and back, are another part #. I did not know this. I just purchased the top and sides. I got lucky, the back and bottom were still in good shape. So I guess I should have read the description of the part more carefully to see what it covers, before I ordered it. It took two people two hours to do the work, it was really nice to have an extra set of eyes, to remember what direction pieces of metal from the stove went. I would do it all over in a heart beat instead of buying a new stove.

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the sensor out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires. Next, I connected new sensor and screwed the new sensor back in place. One area for caution. Make sure that the electrical connection is pushed in past the insulation on the back side of the oven. Failure to do so will cause the plastic plug connector to melt from oven heat.

Bought new element and installed. Very simple. Used phillips
screw driver.

This is fairly easy for anyone to do. First I opened up the front (silver part) of the oven door by removing the screws at the top and the bottom. Then I kept on removing the various layers of glass... the 2 outside ones are removed by removing their respective screws and then you get to the inner-most. These 2 inner ones are in a frame that holds them together. I removed the large silver frame that holds the insulation and the 2-glass-frame in it. Just remove the screws and then tilt the insulation frame out a bit to remove the glass frame. You can tilt the entire insulation holder out but the insulation is soft and it starts to fall off. Just tilting it enough worked for me. Then I opened up the glass frame from one end, removed the left-over broken piece of the old glass pane and installed the new one in. Then reassemble. The entire process is very easy - but you will need another person for a few minutes when you remove /reinstall the glass frame inside the insulation holder. You would just need a little help holding everything... nothing technical. I would rate the repair technicality at 4 or 5/10. It could even be a 3 if there were less steps involved. Good luck! By the way, Amana/Maytag wanted $70 or so for the glass and then the repair fee. I got the part here for about $50.

Unplug the oven.

While you are back there, open the small access panel in the back, bottom center, by remoing one phillips head screw.

You'll see where the power cord is tied into the appliance, and above that there are two connectors attached to the two contacts on the element. These slide off. (Make sure the oven is unplugged or you'll electrocute yourself at which point fixing the oven is proably not a priority.)

Open the oven door and remove the oven racks.

There are two Pan-head Phillips screws securing the the base cover in the bottom of the oven cabinet. (Near the rear of the cabinet) There is a lip at the front edge, so after removing these screws you need to lift the panel up from the back , then turn the panel slightly (at an angle) to remove it; this exposes the element in the base of the cabinet.

There are two or three phillips screws holding the element into the base of the cabinet nearer the oven door--they drive through a small steel bracket attached to the element, and are difficult to miss.

There is one more screw on the back wall of the cabinet were the element exits out to the contacts you disconnected while not electrocuting yourself. Once you remove this screw the element slides right out.

Reverse the process to install the new one.

Final note: The bad element was eating itself; this occurs--apparently--when the oven is on and someone leaves the door open for an extended period of time. My suggestion, with Maytag's at least, is to make sure your furnace does not breakdown late on a sunday when it is extremely cold. If you need to heat the house with your oven--which I am not recommending--order a replacement element from Part Select that day, as you will need to replace it if you don't want your wife to have to cook thanksgiving dinner in the neighbors kitchen.

It took me less time to fix, that to explain how I did it.

Unplug range and remove back panel (4 screws) unplug top burner plugs (2). Open oven door and remove 2 screws from under front of top. Pull top out and up to unhook from back. Remove top and lay cardboard on top of range. Flip over the ranges glass top unit and lay on cardboard. Remove screws from steel bottom and remove from top. Flip over steel bottom with burners attached. Remove attaching clips for burner and unscrew them from the burner then reinstall in new burner in the same place as old burner. Lay new burner on top of old burner and remove one wire at a time, transfering it to the matching plug on the new burner. When wiring is done remove old burner and attach 2 clips to steel backing plate. Vacuum off the glass top and reinstall the steel bottom to the glass top. Flip over the top, remove cardboard and slide top into back of range top and lower into place. Attach 2 screws under front. Reattach the tops plugs at the rear and reattach the back panel. Plug in range and slide back into place. Test units and all other burners. Done...

Removed and replaced above named parts, rewired.Be sure to tighten all nuts that secure wires. I believe this is what caused the problem.

This product comes in a bottle with a brush like Liquid Paper. It goes on incredibly easy. A second coat might be needed. I wanted to prevent rust from setting in so I covered the scratches and dings. The paint is a little brighter since my washer is 10 years old but it still looks great.

First I removed the two philips screws inside the oven that hold the element in place. Then I pulled the sensor out and the two insulated wires through the hole to reveal the plastic connector. I unsnapped it from the connector and replaced it with the new element. Then, behind the oven, I removed five or six philips screws on the right side of the large panel so I could pull the wires back through the layer of fiberglass insulation to make sure only the sensor itself would be exposed to the oven's heat. I then secured the back panel again and replaced the two philips screws holding the sensor in place.

3 months after my 5 year warranty ran out, one of the elements on my wife's maytag cooktop "popped". I was curious to see if I could fix it myself and ran across partselect.com via google. Their step by step instructions for determining the source of the problem (i.e. either the element or the control was bad) led me to realize that the element was bad. I ordered a new one -- which arrived in 3 days! It was very easy to replace the element, since I had already taken the glass cooktop off of the range during the testing phase. Thanks partselect.com!