YGBS277PDB8 Whirlpool Wall Oven - Instructions

With little reluctance..I decided to change the part myself..but was very satisfied...with two screws to detach the bake oven and install the new one.I was very happy to receive the replacement part within 24 hours of placing the order with Part select.

Once I figured out to get the door off, the actual replacement went well.
remove door, using allen wrenches in the holes of the door
remove outer glass - two screws on top, four screws along sides of inside door, two brackets on the bottom
that revealed anothe sheet of glass- held into place by a metal flange at the top (3 screws) and two brackets at the bottom. Pay close attention to how they are mounted for reassembly. They are the same physical configuration, but mount differently to hold glass up from the surface below
That reveals another sheet of glass held into place by two "ears" at the top and a bracket at the bottom.
When that is removed, the next thing to come off is a metal housing on which the glass just removed was mounted. I elected to leave the door hinge springs in place, and slide the metal housing in and out of position. That reveals the glass which needed replacement.
There is some insulation around the glass, but under the metal housing. It came out when I slid the metal out, which moved it from its location, but I think I got it back ok...be sure that it does not sitck out around the glass when you reassemble everything. Put everything back in place, replace the door and remove the allen wrenches. Done. Parts select had the product, and sent it very quickly.

Ordered the glass and read the other reviews/instructions on the PartSelect site. Also read the instructions in my owner's manual for removing the oven door. The hardest part of replacing the glass was the removal and replacement of the door. Once I had the door out, replacing the glass was as simple as removing about 8 or so screws, lifting off the cover and replacing the glass, then replacing the screws. One of the hinges on the door had closed and I was not able to open it to replace the door, so I had to have a neighbor come over to over his muscle power. The hinge problem should not have happened and without that little issue, this is a simple repair that I'm sure saved me at least $100.00 on repairman! And - I'm a woman!

I found the correct sized light bulb to fit the top portion of my double oven. It fit perfectly and just in time for Thanksgiving.
Thank you Part Select. It was easy to find the right size on your site and my order came in just a few days.

Purchased 2 piece broiler pan from this site

Removed the 2 screws holding the element in place. Unplugged the existing element. Plugged in new element - replaced screws. Took less than 5 minutes. :)

This is a drop in range so I had to remove the range and set on a dolly. Turn the dolly around and acess the THRMST-FIX that needed replaceing, it was open. put the range back in its place and could still use the rest of stove until I received the parts 2 days later .
Pulled the range out put the new THRMST-FIX in put the range back together and put the range back in place and it has worked ever since.
GOOD JOB

I used the instructions from another user on this site and the instructions were great. First look in your oven manual to see how to get the oven off-hardest part of repair. Before removing door-duct tape the broken glass. Remove door. Lay door down on flat surface and keep track of screws as you take them out. Remove outer liner-we removed 6 screws total. Replace glass with new glass. Reattached outer liner back onto door. Replace door. This is a GREAT site. Thanks.

Everything worked perfectly---thanks to the suggestion of your call center agent. She suggested that since the replacement door handles were no longer available, I should consider repainting them--it worked like a charm. Please tell her she was a life saver. We rent that house in Fl and my returning tenants had complained about the discoloring refer handles. Thank you

Took longer to take door off than replace glass.The door would have come off easy if I had read the instructions that came with the oven

My electric oven is a built-in. First I turned off power to the oven.

Then, I removed the oven door as instructed by Kitchenaid, next I removed the screws that held the concealing-sleeves on each side of the oven opening. Slid down the sleeves, loosened the exposed screws on each to allow the oven to slide out. Slid the oven out abut half way to expose the top. Removed the metal sheeting from top of oven to expose area where door latch assembly was secured. Removing the sheeting was made easier by removing the screws on each side of the control panel and lifting the panel out of the way.

The latch assembly is held in place by two screws through the front of the plastic venting. Identified the connections to appropriate points before I removed the wiring, removed wiring and attached to points on the new latch assembly.

Secured latch assembly to plastic vent, secured sheeting to top of oven, placed conrol panel back in place, pushed oven back and secured with screws.
Slid sleeves into position, secured with screws and replaced oven door.

Removed four trim pieces; removed four wood screws holding oven in cabinet housing; slid oven out (weighs about 150 lbs and takes two people and a bench to rest oven on. Oven will pull all the way out but not much further because of the electric cord.); Removed back sheet metal cover (bunch of small metal screws); removed wires from bad unit, unscrewed the bad unit and screwed in the replacement unit.

I have a rental and the tenant called. She said that she had a repair man out to fix the oven but he couldn't~that it needed to be replaced as he could not get parts.I contacted your company via phone and the person was so helpful~he asked the problem, looked up the model and advised me on this!It works like a brand new oven!Thanks you

Oven stopped heating after attempting a self cleaning cycle. Problem turned out to be failed thermal fuse component. This is an easy repair and well worth the attempt given the replacement cost of the oven.

First step was to locate and shut off the two circuit breakers supplying power to the oven. Then I locked the panel to ensure someone didnt re-engage the breakers while I was working on the unit. (Lock out / Tag out).

Second step was sliding the oven out of the cabinet - this unit is located below a cooking top and was just the perfect height to allow a furniture dolly to be used to support the oven as I slid it out.

The unit is 'hard wired' (i.e. no power plug) so it can only be pulled out so far from the cabinet, but there was sufficient reach to allow access to and removal of the sheet metal cover at the rear of the oven to expose the thermal fuse and the read wiring. I proceeded with care, assuming the power was still on and once the terminals of the thermal fuse were exposed I performed a voltage measurement to ground on each side of the fuse to ensure power was in fact off.

Then I used an insulated pliers to gently remove the wire harness at each side of the fuse, and once the wires were removed I performed a continuity check of the suspect fuse, and confirmed it was an open circuit (i.e. failed).

Removal of two more screws allowed the fuse to be removed and the new fuse was installed, reversing the procedure.

This was followed by replacement of the rear sheet metal and finally sliding the oven back into its place in the cabinet using the furniture dolly. This is a single oven but still very heavy and has some sharp sheet metal edges likely to cause cuts if not handled with care so the dolly and a second set of hands (and good gloves) are nice to have.

Finally, after inspecting the oven door gasket and other air vents around the outside of the oven to identify suspect causes of the overheating event that tripped the fuse, the air vents above and below and within the door were cleared of dust-bunnies and other debris that had collected, possibly causing interference with the air flow that cools the area in between the oven and the cabinet. This blockage may have been the root cause of the fuse failure - i.e. the air did get too hot back there and had the fuse not tripped it would have been dangerous. The door gasket looked fine although its also an easy replacement and does not require oven removal.

The new part fit perfectly - it was a different design than the original part that shipped with the oven but appears to function perfectly so no complaints. The trip temperature is identical to the OEM part based upon the nomenclature on the back of the OEM and the replacement fuse part.

Unlocked the power panel and turned on the two breakers to the oven, set the clock and checked operation and its functioning great now.

Have not run a self cleaning operation since the repair but that is the next step and now that those door vents are clear I suspect that the fuse wont trip again.

Lesson Learned: Check those vents for obstructions.

Similar oven selling at discount because its the end of the model year is now priced at over $1100. Fixed our unit for $50 and the added cost of a $20 furniture dolly that I already wanted to buy.

Give this repair a try its a piece of cake and well worth the effort.

Used a Phillips head screw driver to remove cover that was covering the over bottom 1/3 of the installed gasket. I then used flathead screwdriver to help remove gasket from the "pins" that were in the gasket that held it to the oven. Installed new gasket inserting pins into the oven. Then I installed cover over bottom 1/3 of gasket. Overall process was very easy