YE204LW Magic Chef Dryer - Instructions

unplug dryer---pop the top up---remove 2-1/4 metal screws that attach front to sides---unclip door switch & wires-lift up on front & set it aside--locate blower housing-remove 6-7 1/4 & 5/16 head metal screws--tough part is i had to buy a snap ring plier to get snap ring off motor shaft--use regular pliers,remove spring clip from blo-wheel hub--wiggle & pull blo-wheel from shaft--befoe re-assembling,,vac out all areas inside dryer case-carful not to damage wires & heat element--when clean re-assemble in order removed--also when ordering parts,,my dryer is series 11 (first two digits in serial #)--parts list showed wheel for series 10 & another for series 12---per instructions from a very nice lady on the other end of the parts select phone,always select the lower series--i my case,series 10

unplugged unit, opened lid, removed 2 screws & door switch from front panel, removed front panel & drum.
Removed clips & washers from rear roller shafts, removed 2 screws (each) attaching rear roller shafts to rear of unit. Replaced rear roller shafts, thrust washers, rollers & clips. Removed clip from belt tensioner idler arm, replaced idler pulley wheel & clip.
pulled tensioner toward motor side and locked in place with broomstick. Placed new belt over drum & installed drum/belt into unit, engaging rear drum lip over new rear drum support rollers. Guided belt
over motor shaft and slowly released broomstick to
tension belt. Turned drum by hand to ckeck belt tracking. Reinstalled front panel & door switch, installed 2 screws holding front panel to case. Closed lid. Plugged unit in & tested for proper operation-OK.

This was so much easier than I though it was going to be. Pulled up on the top part of the dryer and folded it over to the back. Removed 2 screws for the front panel and disconnected some wires. Laying down I fed the new belt on and made sure the tensioner was put back into the right spot, because when the belt broke the tensioner sprung to the other end of its travel. Put everything back together. This was made super easy because you guys had the parts and the shipping was super fast. Alot of the local shops in the area didnt even carry the belt or were not helpful..

Quick note: I saved over thirty dollars using partselect over the actuall Maytag store parts dept and they still had to order the part to be delivered in 4-5 days. First I pryed the top off of clips in front then removed the screws that hold the element into place, removed the therostat bracket held in by one screw and disconnected wire clips (after labeling the wires) and removed the thermostat from bracket by two screws then disconnected the element wires and slid the old element out. Reversed the process to reinstall the new parts.

First I disconnected the power cord. Next the top of the dryer was easily popped upen with a screw driver by inserting it between the top panel and the front door panel. I removed the two sheet metal screws that held the door panel on the upper right and left sides. The door panel was easily lifted up and out and set it to the side (the door switch can stay connected, the wire is long enough). d I pulled the drum out from off of the rollers that hold the drum in place. No need to remove the belt, it stays in place. I reached through the drum and removed the two hex-head screws that held the roller in place ( I only replaced the left one) and added the new one. I pushed the drum back in place over the rollers (it snaps in place). I propped the drum up with a short screw driver to raise it off of the right and left drum glides (on the bottom). I replaced the felt pads and the plastic glides and set the drum back in place. I also replaced the felt ring (seal) that circles the door opening that the drum also glides on. I glued it in place in spots (with gasket glue). It folds back over itself and forms a double thick pad. You will see what I mean when you see how the old one looks. I replaced the front door panel and snapped the top panel back in place. I let the dryer set over night so the glue would set up. I turned it on the next morning and it is as quiet now as when it was new. Oh ...Jay (the husband) did the work not Jean the wife (her dryer, her credit card)

I unplugged the dryer and then opened the top by releasing the two clips with a large flathead screwdriver. The heat element tested good with ohm meter but the thermistat was open. Replaced the thermistat and it fixed the problem.

Was told by repairman that the to replace the heating element in my Performa dryer would cost approximately $185.00 (not incl.tax). Ridiculous! Order part for $59.00 and received it a day after it was ordered. Went to work installing heating element. Five minutes later I was finished. Thanks.

used a flat blade screw driver to open top up(like a car hood) then removed two screws that held the front panel on. Two more screws held the lint colector part in place. The only problem that I had was that I had to use Elmers white glue to hold the gasket that ran around the lint colector in place.Just a little dab, not enough to soak it.When I took the part out there was about a volleyball's worth of lint in the fan blower. Ordered the part and 2 or three days later I had it. If I need another part I will be back...

First I removed the 2 screws located on front panel securing dust collector in place, then I removed the two screws on the side of the dryer that secure the front panel. I also "popped" the top
of the dryer from the front panel. The front of the panel was then detached from the dryer. I thenpulled the gasket away from the collector, removed the old one and installed the new collector. Part of the kit also contained a new gasket to the exhaust duct, I merely removed the old gasket and installed the new one.. All this was notas hard asit sounds. The diagram from PartsSelect site helped

I needed to remove the front lower cover, very easy as it is held on with clips only so I used a flat head screw driver to pop it off. I had to remove the lint filter and then there are two screws attaching the top cover of the dryer to the internal lint filter tray. The top of the dryer can then be opened front to back I again used the flat head screw driver to pop the top open as it has two clips at the front corners. It helps to have someone to hold it open or a rod of some type to keep it open. You can now lay the belt on the top of the drum and work it down the back side by pulling forward on the drum itself to seperate the drum from the seal that presses aginst the back side of the drum. I then went from the lower front to retrieve the belt now draped over the drum and pinched the belt to pass it through the tensioner and over the drive pulley. looking at it from the front the belt will come down the right side of the drum under the tensioner pulley around the drive pulley across the bottom of the drum and up the left side. The belt sits almost in the middle of the drum not against the back lip where there is a groove that might be confused as a place for the belt to ride that is where the seal sits then reverse the process to reattach the top to lint tunnel and reattach front cover and you are good to go . i would suggest vaccuming any old dust/ lint whlie everything is open as this reduces the chance for catching on fire I was supprised as to how much lint was loose inside the dryer cavity itself and our dryer is gas and the flame is an open flame.

My son actually did the repair when he was over here and said it was so easy, even "Mom" could've done it! He said all he did was unscrew one little screw, life out the old part, drop the new part into that slot and replace the screw! It's the easiest repair I've ever heard of! Thank you....I will definitely order parts from your company in the future. Fast shipping too!!

I followed the directions from a post on parts select that somebody had previously written and my repair worked out perfectly. I removed the top / lid of the dryer by placing a flat head screwdriver underneath both top front corners which was relatively simple. I then removed the entire front door of the dryer by disconnecting the electric wires for the door which again was a very simple procedure. The tumbler was now exposed at which time I removed the belt (I took a picture of the belt setup for later reassembly) and lifted the tumbler off giving myself easy access to the rear drum rollers and front drum pads. I was able to see that the wheels were worn and definitely the cause of the squealing. I changed out the wheels with replacement wheels which was self explanatory. The front pads were in good shape but I figured that at this point it would serve me well to replace them also which I did. I then reset the new belt (another part that I opted to change while I had the opportunity) on the tumbler with the picture in hand and had no problem. This step did require two people but still not a difficult step. I then put the door and lid back together and now had myself an extremely quiet dryer and a piece of mind that new parts were installed. All in all pretty easy repair.

Unplugged the dryer then popped the top off and tilted it back, exposing the drum. Then using a flat bladed screw driver, removed the two sheet metal screws holding the front panel on. Once the front panel was removed, I pulled the drum off, exposing the motor and worn pulley. I removed the pulley arm, then removed the pulley. The bearings were totally gone, so I replaced it with a new pulley, replaced the belt and the front drum glides, since they were obviously worn. While it was apart, I cleaned out the interior with a shop vac, which greatly improved the efficiency of the dryer.

The hardest part of my repair was to move all the stuff (sh**) that had accumulated around the machine. We have had our Maytag dryer for 10+ years and a lot of things have been stacked or piled near it. Once the dryer was pulled out and the top could open, it was a matter of disconnecting the door light switch (just remove from clamp and pull out of the way),15 screws, 1 snap ring and a spring clamp. removal was simple, however installation was slightly harder because the new blower wheel's opening for the motors arbor was very tight. I had to use a hammer to drive it on the arbor, no hard hits but to hard to slip on. then another 10 mins to vaccum out all the lint. all together from start to finish was about 40 mins. If you have done any home repairs this job will be simple, hope this helps

I inserted the clip