X9875XVB Maytag Wall Oven - Instructions

VERY SIMPLE. Two screws inside the overn hold the element in place, remove them - pull the element forwad to expose the connections, one on each end. Simply unplug the element from the connections to remove the old one, plug the new element into the connections, push the element back into place, and re connect the two screw's that hold it in place. That's it. 5 minutes tops. You guys were great as far as getting the part, quickly and easily. Thanks!

Removed the two screws holding the element in place. I then pulled the element and wiring out until I saw the connecter. I disconnected the two wires and then chose the correct connector from the package, snapped it back into place, put the screws back, turned on the breaker then tested the oven and found that everything was working correctly.
This is the second time I have ordered from Part Select, the first time was for a front LED panel on the same appliance. With the help finding the part you need and the comments from other customers I have saved a lot of money by repairing these problems myself. Oh, and the best part is the look on my husband's face when he came home and found out the repairs were made by me and not a repairman that he said I should call. He said he would laugh when the first repair by me didn't work but who's laughing now : )

As the video described I just unscrewed the sensor from inside the oven. Although I couldn't pull the wiring harness through the insulation (the wires were gathered in back with a wire tie) just four screws to loosen the back panel for access to the connection. My wife says it seems to be heating perfectly now.

I was told by appliance repairman that sensor and electronic panel were out - so ordered both as PartSelect was less expensive (about 1/2) than service call price. Sensor was in stock and arrived in 2 days, panel was special order from factory.
Replaced the sensor. Pressed Control Lock pad for several seconds and oven clock came on. Was able to set baking temp, broiler, and convection operation as normal.
Canceled order on panel as Sensor fixed my problem.

removed the 2 screws connecting the element to the back wall of the oven. then slid the element towards me about 3 inches, and that exposed the wires ,which were terminated on to the element. I pulled the wires off the element, and removed it. I placed the new element in the oven,terminated the wires by pushing the connectors on to the element, slid the element towards the back of the oven , pushing the wire connections into the rear wall, until the attached flange ,on the element rested against the wall. I then terminated the screws to hold the element in place. Turned on the oven and made some biscuits. All went well

I removed door by opening it to first stop and lifted it up off the hinge's. I removed all screws that held the inner panel to the outer panel and handle. Removed inner panel from outer panel, then glass and insulation, replaced glass and insulation and panel.

Replaced screws and handle,pulled hinge's out to first stop and slid door down on hinge's. This took about 20min. to do, most anybody handy with a screwdriver can do it.

PS: shipping was fast and price was great.
Thanks Bob G.

SHUT OFF BREAKER FOR OVEN! pulled oven out to get at backside,removed 3 screws on back coverplate,removed 2 screws inside oven at sensor in top left corner of oven,disconnected plastic clip at back ,pulled old sensor through hole.replaced sensor with new in reverse order. 15minutes tops.

I screwed the light lens into the socket and went beautifully. Better than the original. (I am a retired, 75 yr. old woman).

Remove outer panel first, outer glass and handle come off as one piece. Be carefull to secure as last screws are removed. Remove inner silver panel. Remove broken glass and replace with new. Reaassemble. Around 10 Phillips head screws altogether. Much easier than I thought

Had a technician from Home Advisor to check the problem out with my Whirlpool Double oven(1 1/2 old). Paid $60 to find the problem. According to the technician problem was control board and cost of labor and parts $465.00
Jumped on Part Select website, placed a question with my stove problem through the chat. Immediately they answered my question and told me the problem was the Terminal Block. Cost of part and shipping $25.00. Replaced it myself and everything works fine.
Thank you, Thank you Part Select for your help and honesty.

Sincerely
Peter from Maryland

Heat escaping from the top of the over door would overheat the electronics and cause the system to show error codes F1 and F3-1. Error code F3-1 suggests that the oven temperature sensor was bad. I replaced the sensor but that did not stop the problem. Replacing the oven door gasket stop the heat leak and solved the problem. I simply pull the old gasket off the door (it stuck a bit at the bottom but a pair of pliers solved that problem, then push the new gasket into place without any tools. The old gasket was very hard and non-complient where food had spilled on it and baked hard.

Here's the way to do it, according to the "Describe how you did the repair" prompt: "First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires..."

Right, however, I shoulda-woulda-coulda listened to my fellow DYI'ers on this site about c-a-r-e-f-u-l-l-y feeding the wiring out of the rear hole.

But, first, turn off the power. Secondly, make sure the power is off at the breaker. I did and that worked fine.

However, as I pulled the connecting end of the bake element out, bummer! The spade electrical fitting popped off and retreated into a sea of insulation! Future solution? Like The Man suggested, Carefully, gently pull the element out and grab the connecting wire, pull it out to get a little slack and attach a clothespin to the end, so it won't back out and disappear! Then, detach the broken element, reverse the steps with the new bad boy and start cookin'!

If you need to pull the stove out, as we did, to "get at" the back of the oven and the retreated wire, move the oven out on a parallel height platform or boards as it exits the opening. Note carefully as to how much slack there is on the electrical connection, typically armored cable or another, er, "homebrew" electrical solution.

Take your time, as the pie will wait.

Unplugged the stove and removed the back panel, disconnected the wires from the old receptacle, removed it, inserted the new receptacle, connected the wires, put the back panel of the stove on, plugged in the stove and then checked to see if the bulb was now burning. Success!

I slide the range out and unplugged it from the outlet. I removed the back of the oven ( 8 screws ) using a cordless drill and phillips bit then with a phillips screwdriver I removed the oven sensor (2 screws) then I installed the new sensor , reinstalled the oven back , plugged the range in , slide it back into place and that was it. This repair took about 10 mins and the oven works perfectly. Thanks !

So, the F9 error indicates a electrical power issue. First I pulled the oven out and verified I had 240 volts at my outlet.

Then I removed the fire panel over the terminal block and the issue was apparent. The nuts on the terminal block were corroded. This had cause the resistance in the connection to raise and burn up the wire to my oven plug at the terminal block.

I removed the whole back panel and everything else seemed OK visually.

1. I go new connectors for the oven plug, stripped the wires, and crimped on the new connectors.

2. The terminal block DOES NOT come with the nuts to connect the wire to the terminal block. Mine were so corroded they had to be replaced. So I went and purchased the correct ones and installed the terminal block and reconnected all the wires.

3. I applied some dielectric grease to the connections through out the process of reinstalling to prevent it from happening in the future.