This an authentic OEM 40-Watt replacement light bulb, used in a number of household appliances. It is specially designed to withstand extreme temperatures, which is why these replacement bulbs are mos...
The flat style oven igniter kit is used in gas ovens and ranges. It is what provides the heat needed to open the gas valve, and it ignites fuel for the burner assembly. This part can be used for both ...
This is a leveling leg for your oven, range, or stove. The leveling legs on your oven allow your appliance to sit perfectly flat. The new one may be longer in length than your original, but will work...
The burner head cap with spark electrode directs the gas to the front and back burner heads and will equally distribute the gas across cooking areas. This part can help the following symptoms: if your...
This is a replacement oven rack and it is designed for use with ranges and ovens. This is a genuine OEM replacement part. The rack provides a level and stable surface for cookware inside of your appli...
This is a multi-use and multi-appliance screw. It can be used on a microwave, refrigerator, range/oven, air conditioner, dehumidifier, washer, or dryer. The measurements of this screw are 8 x 1/2 inch...
This valve knob is also known as control knob, burn valve, and burner knob. It fits on your stovetop or range to control the heat of the surface burner. No tools are required for this repair, simply r...
The oven door gasket on your range functions as a seal between the warm interior of your oven, and the outside. It prevents heat from fleeing your oven when the door is closed. Before making any repai...
This part may differ in appearance, but functions same as original part. : This part sends enough current to the igniter to create a spark to the bottom of the burner cap.
The light cover lens in your oven is designed to protect the light bulb. If your light cover lens is damaged, you will need to replace it. This part is made of clear glass and is roughly 3 inches in d...
$64.44
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The oven had been working intermittently for a while and after repeated threats of starvation from my spouse I finally took a look even though it was summer and the grill was working fine. The Igniter would glow red when the oven was turned on but the gas would not flow to it no matter what the temperature setting. I searched online and f
... Read moreound this site that explained it was possible for the igniter to glow but if it was not drawing the correct amperage (because its resistance was too high) then the main brain would not allow the gas valve to open. So I took a look at the broiler and it had the same igniter. I measure the resistance of both of them and the oven igniters resistance was higher (don't rememeber the reading) then I moved the Igniter from the broiler to the oven and the oven worked from there it was just a matter of ordering the part. End of story except for I am still doing all the cooking on the barbecue outside.
In most cases if your oven won't light or takes a long time to light you may have a bad igniter even if it glows. To check the igniter use a voltmeter to check for 120 A/C volts going to the igniter and3.5 A/C volts going between the ingniter and the gas valve. My bad ingniter glowed but had only only 3.0 A/C volts going to the gas valve
... Read morefor the oven. The new igniter took only 45 minutes to install and supply's 3.6 A/C volts to the gas valve and the oven works fine.
My son replaced the broiler igniter this spring, so I had a clue as to what was required. This was even easier and since I had back surgery recently & my husband was out of town that was a giant plus!
I unplugged the oven, removed the oven door, found the release latch and removed the oven floor. I then removed the 2 screws
... Read more that held the igniter in place (I received this stove used and the igniter had evidently been replaced before as it was the same shorter version included in the kit). I pulled the igniter out then removed some insulation and tugged the connector out of the oven floor. I disconnected the igniter and plugged the new one in. I then replaced the connector in the floor, attached the igniter with the screws, replaced the insulation and did a test run (plugged in the oven & turned it on). That was successful so I put the floor back in and put the door back on. Ta-Dah!
