WWX121ES1 Westinghouse Washer - Instructions

Removed front panel and unplugged wire connector to drain pump. Loosened two hose clamps and removed hoses the unbolted drain pump from washer frame. Simple removal and even simplier installation of new drain pump.

Remove front lower access panel: two phillips screws at the lower edge then the panel slid down and off. Removed 5/16 pump mounting screws then slid a shallow pan under pump to attempt to catch stale water, removed left side (inlet) hose clamp and wiggled hose off to drain water with some success, some spillage. Removed outlet hose, turned the pump around to remove electrical connection. Reversed steps to mount new pump and after fighting with spring clamp on outlet side I chose to replace that spring clamp with a 1 1/2" stainless hose clamp which then could be tightened with a screwdriver and only took a minute to wrap up.

Replaced drain pump using this walk through. Different models, but pretty straight forward.

Replacing all springs. Able to replace 2 short springs and front spring. Can't get to ones in back of washer tub. Unable to use strenght in arms to remove old springs. Help videos were great. Saved money by doing repairs myself.

I ordered pump so I would have it on hand. I didn’t want the washer in pieces waiting on parts. New pump came in 2-3 days with standard shipping. Found a video online for this model. Removed top. Removed control panel and set on front edge of frame. Removed door seal spring. Removed front panel and separated seal from drum. Pump located at bottom left. Removed pump screws. Got a shallow pan from kitchen to catch water. Removed hoses and trap. Not much water. Took trap boot and pump to sink for cleaning and found a bra wire had made it past the screen and was rubbing on pump impeller. That was the noise. Cleaned and reinstalled old pump. Has been running for 2 months without a problem. Easily returned the new pump! Highly recommend this company and site. Will come here for my repair jobs first. Hope I remembered all the steps correctly since it has been over 2 months.

Purchased both the belt and idler pulley. Bought the idler pulley "to have it if it were needed" since it was only a $15 part.

Watched two videos provided on PartSelect for our model number with our symptoms. Both showed an easy access of idler pulley at the front of the washer. My emailed invoice also contained links to the video for each part.

Getting the panels off went exactly like the video. However, the idler pulley was nearly on the back side of the tub assembly/transmission and NOT easily accessed as shown in the video.

I replaced the belt and ran the washer without replacing the idler pulley. Since it performed very well agitated/spun I elected to avoid the daunting looking task of idler pulley replacement. Hung it up for "just in case" future use....again not hard to do at only $15.

We have a washer/dryer stack type. For a week or so, my wife mentioned that washer is louder than normally is, shortly, the washer stopped spinning and the clothes were finishing soaking wet.

I opened the front panel sheet and saw the broken belt, ordered the belt online. The belt arrived in 2 days, and the actual belt-replacement took 10 minutes. The washer functional like new.

Removed old belt. Installed new belt.

Popped the tub cover off....replaced with new one.
Thank you so much for a speedy delivery.

Lift washer lid by jerking the lid up and open. Remove front panel by removing 2 screws at front bottom and guiding tabs out of slots. Locate tabs on tub cover and gently pry loose with a flat blade screwdriver or putty knife. Remove tub cover and inspect seal area for damage or debris. Replace new tub cover on tub and align and fasten each tab. Ensure that lid is securely fastened to tub by pressing top of cover down and visually inspecting that each tab is engaged with tub hooks. Replace front panel. Use anti-seize grease when replacing the 2 front panel screws. Use a small amount of petroleum jelly on the top lid spring clips before closing washer top. (The last 2 tips will help any future opening of the washer.)

my husband did the work he can fix anything.i watched he explained what he was doing and how he was getting it done.it did"nt take long at all.the biggest problem was setting the belt tensioner . its running great!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

before you buy any parts do this first..turn on your washing machine,then push and hold start and pause at the same time.An error code will come up,look in your book and see what that code represents. Mine came up 47.that error for my machine was the door switch.

The longest part was cleaning and taking the washer apart , the screws were rusted to the bottom of the washer front,had to spray and pound on screws to get them out.after cleaning dirt and rust in the washer I greased the idle pulley.Putting on the belt was a snap.I also had to repair a leg screw that keeps the washer level, Washer runs like a new washer. very Pleased with the results. Its like having an old washer restored to new. it looks and sounds like a new washer.It took less then 5 mins to change the lid strike.

It was easy. No problem getting the to v-belt.

Hard to reach around the motor and gear box to attach the belt and pulley not much room. Harder to put the front pannel back on than take off