WWEF3004KWF Westinghouse Range - Instructions

1. Removed two screws, pulled out the element, voltage tested the element and determined it was an open circuit (bad element).
2. Ordered the part from partselect.com
3. Disconnected element, connected the new one, and screwed it back in.

Shut off circuit breaker to stove and collected the tool from the basement. Turned on flashlight. Unscrewed the two hex nuts from the old element/back of the oven. Slid the old element prongs out of the back, exposing the connecting wires. Pulled the connecting wires off of the old element, carefully, so that the connections wouldn't come off of the wires. Threw the old element pieces in the garbage. Connected the new element to the connecting wires and re-fastened the hex nuts. My husband had wanted to call the repair man, but it didn't look too difficult, so I decided to try it on my own. Boy was he surprised when I fixed it, and for a fraction of the cost of hiring a repairman! Ladies, we can do this ourselves!!! :) Thank you for being there for us to order our part from, Parts Select, we had our new part in less than 24 hours, so the shipping was blazing fast!!! Keep up the good work!!! :)

removed screws pulled element out. removed wire from old element replaced with new element.very easy

My husband called our one and only parts store and got a price of $50 for the element. I used a search engine over the weekend and found the same thing for almost half the price. I received an email that said the element was shipped out on Monday, and it arrived on Tuesday afternoon! So my husband removed the two screws that hold the element in place, then replaced it with a new one. I am back in business for the holidays!

The element is attached to the back of the oven by two small screws. After unplugging the electricity to the oven and removing the attaching screws with a socket set (6.5 mm), you are able to pull the element several inches out from the back of the oven. Doing so exposes where the wiring is connected to the ends of the baking element. The element disconnects from the wiring with a light tug, after which the new element can be connected. I leave the "real" fix-it jobs to the pros ... this was a simple repair that anyone can do.

We moved into our townhouse about 6 yrs ago. During the home inspection we checked the range and saw the Red light come on when we turned on each burner. After moving in we realized the large back burner did not work. The light came on but the element never got hot. I of course replaced the element but that did not work. Several years passed and we just ignored the issue. We just got by with 3 burners. Lately we realized how much easier it would be to have all four burners working. Knowing that we will be selling our townhome soon we figured we should either fix the problem or replace the range.

I didn't want to call a repair man because I didn't want to be charged a $150 to have him come out and they to pay extra for parts (and of course a 2nd visit). So I went to www.Partselect.com and typed in the model of my range. Found the diagrams for my range and saw that from the switch ran a pair of wires to a Universal Receptacle (aka Terminal Block Kit). I figured since the Red light turns on when I turn the switch on it has to be the Terminal Block.

I ordered the part from www.Partselect.com ($14.00 including shipping) and replaced the part. The burner still would not get hot. I decided to test the switch. I removed the Control Panel cover (which is secure by 2 screws just below the digital clock). Once the cover was off, I saw the Blue wires going from the switch to the Terminal Block. To test the switch, I disconnected the two Blue Wires from connectors H1 and H2 and temporarily connected them to H1 and H2 of another switch. Sure enough, when I turned the other switch the element got hot.

So I placed another order from www.Partselect.com for a replacement switch ($50 including shipping). When that part came, I flipped the electrical circuit going to the range. I then removed the Control Panel cover again. With the new switch in hand (holding it near the old switch still attached to the Control Panel, I used the pliers to pull out each wire from it's connector and place it to it's corresponding connector on the new switch. Once all the wires were connected to the new switch, I pulled the knob of the switch off then used a phillips screwdriver to remove the two screws holding the switch to the control panel. I replaced the old switch with the new one put the screws back in, replaced the knob. Turned the circuit back on and tested to make sure that the element got hot. When it did, then I replaced the Control Panel cover and enjoyed a nice dinner that was cooked in less time than we're accustomed to because of the new burner. So I spent a total of $64.00 to fix our range. Less than half the amount I would've spent if I called for a technican. And far less then buying a new range.

Partselect is a great resource for information. They have diagrams and schematics available to view and/or download. And when ordering it's a snap because there's an "Add to Cart" button next to each part it lists. So there's no confusion. I've already recommended Partselect.com to about 5 people. And will continue to do so!!

Initially, I tested the temperature sensor and it was OK. I pulled out the range and shut off the circuit breaker to it. I removed the upper back sheet metal panel to expose the clock timer. I removed the 4 screws to it, unplugged the wires to it and plugged them into the new clock timer. I carefully removed the plastic facing stuck to the face of the old clock timer and stuck it on the new clock timer. No new adhesive was necessary. I placed the newly connected clock timer in position and secured it with the 4 screws that secured the old clock timer. I pushed the range back into position and reset the circuit breaker. I turned the oven on and the problem was resolved.

FIRST THING! UNPLUG THE OVEN! After I made sure there was no residual charge left in the oven I took a 1/4 inch socket wrench and attached to an interchangable screwdriver and crawled in the oven. I removed both screws and gently pulled on the element until the wire leads came thru. I then unplugged the leads and replaced the element with the new element and plugged them in. Then gently slipped the leads back into the oven and replaced the screws. Turned on the oven and WHA LA!! We had our oven back and running and had chocolate chips cookies in a flash! It was fast and easy and saved me a fortune!

Turned off power, took back off stove removed old probe.
I had to splice wires since new probe ends did not match up.
the instructions were to splice the wires. I had the breaker off for about 3 hours. this is not in the instructions, but being a widow, I had to ask a few people why it would not come on after I connected the wires.
After waiting, I turned the breaker on and my range came back on.

First we removed two screws under the rim of the range top to open the lid. Lifted the lid and removed the screws from the bracket that holds the elements, Be careful with the clips that hold the element in, if you break them or bend them there aren't any more! Also note which holes they were in, they are marked according to the different sizes of elements. Disconnected the wires, needed needlenose pliers to grip them...connected new element, popped it back in place, replaced bracket, closed top ...Easy peasy!!!

One day my wife turned on the oven and it didn't get hot. The heating element was cold even after it was turned on for a few minutes. The same story with the broiler. The stove top and timer worked fine, you could turn the oven on, it just never even started to heat up.
I ordered the new clock assembly and it got to my house in 2 or 3 days.
Once I got the new clock assembly, it was pretty easy to put in. Just take the back panel off (6 screws), unplug 5 or 6 wires, and 2 more screws and the old clock assembly is out. I peeled off the face sticker from my old clock and stuck it on the new one.
Putting it back in was just the reverse of taking the old one out. 2 screws, plugging in the wires, and then putting the back panel on.
Its been working as good as new for over a month.

First thing I did was to turn off the range supply breaker. There were two screws, one on each side, that held the lower element into place. I used a phillips head screw driver to remove the screws and pulled the element out for access to the wires. I pulled the connectors off of the element and remove it from the oven. I them put the new element into place, attached the wires, replaced the screws and turned on the breaker. It was an easy fix.

Turned power off at electrical panel. Pulled oven away from wall. Removed back cover (6 screws), then unplugged wires from old receptacle. I had to pull the squeeze clips backwards & break them to remove the old receptacle - couldn't squeeze them enough to remove them otherwise. The old receptacle came out through the inside of the oven, and the new one snapped in easily from inside the oven as well. Replaced wiring, installed new bulb, restored power & tested. Replaced back cover. Good time to vacuum under/behind where the oven usually lives before sliding it back to the wall.

Removed the back cover of the range. Removed the knob from the front of the switch. Removed 2 screws holding switch to range. Removed wires one at a time and connected to proper poles on replacement switch and reinstalled new switch on range

VERY IMPORTANT! kill the circuit breaker to the unit and/or unplugged it! 2 screws hold the ceramic glass top to the lip @ top of oven--remove them and the top can be lifted up to expose all the burner elements and wiring--remove the 2 end screws that hold the retainer bracket for the burners - then remove the 2 screws that hold the burner in question to the bracket-there's also a retainer pin that needs a bit of fussing with to completely free the burner--once totally free remove the wires from the bad unit to the good unit exactly as they are situated --install new unit onto bracket with screws and bracket back to its original location on the ceramic top-put top back down and replace both anchor screws--initiate power back to unit and yeeehahh--You just saved yourself lottsa money from repair bills!!!