WWA8072BAL General Electric Washer - Instructions

First, you will need to remove the agitator, if it hasn't fallen off by itself. Than, you will need a pulley to remove the coupling from the spinning pole . I used one of those pulleys with three arms to remove it , Second, I lubricated the inside of the new coupling with a little oil, and sided it down on the spinning pole. It was a little hard to installed but, I used a hammer and tapped it in. Third, I also put some lubricant on the new coupling to help the agitator slide down a little easier on the new coupling.

P.S. Check inside agitator for old rubber of the old coupling and remove it. (only if it has fallen off the old coupling.)

## WHAT I WISH I'D KNOWN BEFORE I STARTED ##
1. Remove the four hoses first.
2. remove the three screws holding the pump to the structure above BEFORE loosening the flex clamp.
3. with the pump free of the hoses and rest of the washer, then remove the flex coupling clamp from the pump end only; do not remove the flex coupling from the motor.
4. remove the old pump.
5. attach the new pump to the top of the flex coupling BEFORE attaching the pump to the upper part of the washer. This is the most difficult step, to get the flex coupling on the pump in a secure fashion using the clamp. It's much easier to do if the pump is not yet connected to the rest of the washer.
6. attach the pump to the washer with the three mounting screws.
7. re-attach the hoses.
8. run the washer and check for leaks.

I made the mistake of taking the flex coupling off the motor then tried to put the flex coupling on the motor and the pump when the pump was already attached to the washer. Major grief :>(

Good luck, it's well worth the effort.

put washer on its side,removed 1cross section,loosened the nut that held on the pulley.
loosened the motor and removed drive belt,removed drive pulley,removed old seal,poured in 90 weight gear oil,installed new seal and done everything else in reverse order.
stood washer upright connected water hoeses,waste water discharge hose,set washer to spinanr turned it on to make sure no more leaks.
everything is working well

In my case the rubber bonded to the agitator coupling had stuck inside the agitator cover (plastic part that comes in contact with clothes). The metal part with the splines could not be removed by gripping with pliers. A pulling tool needed to be used to remove the tool. I used a valve spring compressor tool for overhead cam engines, but any pulling type tool with a center bolt and jaws that will fit between the rubber seal and the bottom of the agitator coupling would work. After removing metal part of coupling from agitator shaft and cleaning up the rusted teeth on the agitator shaft that caused the difficult removal, I pried out the rubber part of the agitator coupling from the plastic agitator cover by inserting a screw driver from the top hole in the agitator cover and getting it under the rubber to separate the toothed parts of the rubber from the matching grooves and then pushed it out the bottom of the agitator coupling. Then came the difficult part of the project - inserting the new coupling. I found the instructions that came with the new part very unrealistic and was not able to simply wet the rubber on the new coupling after installing it on top of agitator shaft and then push it into the plastic agitator cover - it simply would not go down more than 1/8" in the cover. If you attempt to do this job using the method described in the instructions you will likely end up with a damaged agitator, or cover as you will likely resort to hammering the cover on which is not recommended because of shock to agitator teeth. In my solution this is where a long bolt, 2 large diameter washers that the bolt fit through, several nuts larger than the bolt diameter and finally a nut that fit the long bolt came into play. Using these parts and a socket set with several long socket extensions I used the bolt, washers and nuts to draw the agitator coupling into position in the plastic coupling. This worked extremely easily once all the parts were in the right place and put no stress on any of the parts being assembled. To do this, first I installed the new agitator coupling on the agitator shaft - making sure it would remove fairly easily before continuing, then I pushed the agitator cover over the agitator coupling as far as I could to get it connected well enough to the agitator coupling so that when I pulled the agitator cover back off the agitator shaft the coupling would come with it (still in place with the rubber teeth from the coupling started in the corresponding grooves on the inside of the cover). With the agitator cover removed I placed a washer that was wider than the top of the agitator cover onto the long bolt (the bolt must be about 8 inches long) and then passed the bolt through the hole in the top of the agitator cover, through the splined hole in the agitator coupling (the bolt must be small enough in diameter to fit through the agitator couping hole). With the bolt and washer pushed all the way down on top of the agitator cover I turned the cover over and placed it upside down on the floor so that the cover pushed down on the washer and bolt and held them in place. I then used an extracting tool (something with little claws that protrude or retract) to lower first another washer large enough in diameter to cover the diameter of the agitator coupling bottom and then several nuts larger than the bolt diameter onto the exposed end of the bolt that comes out on the other side of the agitator coupling inside the long narrow tube of the agitator cover. Once I had enough nuts in place to leave only enough threads on the bolt for the washer and nut that fit that bolt, I set the nut on the end of the bolt and used the correct sized socket with several long socket extensions attached to it to hand tighten the nut onto the end of the bolt. Then securing the head of the bolt with a wrench to keep the bolt from turning, I placed a socket wrench on the extensions and socket that covered the nut and then tightened th

took motor lose and belt lose first, then took pulley off from the tub shaft, then made a big mistake, I took and pulled the lower shaft seal. lucky I had a pan to catch the oil about half a gallon. After that I could not find away to put oil in the gear box, so I took the drum out and that didn't work but it was a good thing I did because the inside drum was rusting so I spend money on the seal for nothing. Had to buy a new washer. If I ever did it again I would turn the whole washer up side down so the oil could not run out and I would put the oil in the hole where the seal was. lot of work for nothing.

loosen the clamp holding the flex coupling then remove the 3 screws holding pump in place remove old pump and coupling best to have washer laying on it's face for easy access to screws.
install coupling on new pump and install togeather then attach flex coupling to drive motor...

After removing the rear cover I removed all the hose connections as this gives a better access to the mounting screws. Next disconnect the drive coupling. Remove the 2 inner mount screws frist then remove the 3rd screw.
Reversing this procedure makes mounting the new pump easy. Also I went to GE's web site and downloaded the parts sheet that also gave me the number for the proper pump.
E. Renico

I went to your web suite to get part numbers. Found your videos. It told me what my problem was and how to fix it. Pull clip off. install new knob reinstall clip done. Very easy and fast. I couldn't even get a repairman out that fast.

Tilted the washing machine, removed 4 hoses from the pump and the drive connector;
removed 3 nuts that hold the pump; install
the new pump and put back the hoses; to be safe, I unplugged the electric

I removed the four hoses that were connected to it, then I removed the three screws holding the pump in place. Then I removed the drive adapter that was connecting the pump to the motor. I then did everything in reverse order to install the new pump and everything worked just fine. Thanks!

After pulling the knob out ( on position) a white retainer clip was visible behind the knob. Using a paper clip bent in to a "J" shape I was able to easily remove the retainer clip and knob . The old knob had several stripped teeth that caused the problem. The new knob came with the retainer clip installed . The knob slipped on and locked in position.

Unplug the machine. Turn it face down. Take the back off. Take the four hoses off the pump. Unscrew the screw holding the connection to the motor and carefully slide the brace off without bending it. Remove the 3 screws holding the pump on. Take the old pump out. Screw the 3 screws back on. Attach the drive mechanism with the clamp carefully being sure to even it out under the clamp as you tighten it. Reattach the hoses. One of my hoses leaked after wards so I had to trim a half inch off to get a better grab on the pump. Put the back on and stand her up. Plug it in and test her out.

Husband did it. Tipped machine onto its front. Took out some screws and disconnected a wire and removed hoses from pump. Then put it all back and it is as good as new. This is the second pump in two years, but it beats the price of a new machine.
Your service is excellent. Both times, I have ordered the part is here the next morning. Never have had such service from anywhere else. I am telling all my friends about your web site.

had to pull knob out to see the clip locking the knob to the post.
finally got the clip out, pulled knob off sand put on new knob with new clip

Repair was relativly simple. I read previous customer direction submissions. I found that laying the front of the washing macine down removing the back panel gave easy access to the water pump. Remove all 4 hoses first then with a 11/32nd socket remove the top 3 screws that are holding up the pump. At the bottom of the pump unscrew the clamp until the pump will slide out of the rubber stabelizer.(Leave stabelizer attached to the motor) Remove the pump and in reverse order replace with new pump leaving the back cover off of the machine. Set the washing machine upright and check for leeks. After checking for leeks attach the back panel onto the washing machine.