WWA5411BAL General Electric Washer - Instructions

Tilted the washing machine, removed 4 hoses from the pump and the drive connector;
removed 3 nuts that hold the pump; install
the new pump and put back the hoses; to be safe, I unplugged the electric

I removed the four hoses that were connected to it, then I removed the three screws holding the pump in place. Then I removed the drive adapter that was connecting the pump to the motor. I then did everything in reverse order to install the new pump and everything worked just fine. Thanks!

After pulling the knob out ( on position) a white retainer clip was visible behind the knob. Using a paper clip bent in to a "J" shape I was able to easily remove the retainer clip and knob . The old knob had several stripped teeth that caused the problem. The new knob came with the retainer clip installed . The knob slipped on and locked in position.

Husband did it. Tipped machine onto its front. Took out some screws and disconnected a wire and removed hoses from pump. Then put it all back and it is as good as new. This is the second pump in two years, but it beats the price of a new machine.
Your service is excellent. Both times, I have ordered the part is here the next morning. Never have had such service from anywhere else. I am telling all my friends about your web site.

Unplug the machine. Turn it face down. Take the back off. Take the four hoses off the pump. Unscrew the screw holding the connection to the motor and carefully slide the brace off without bending it. Remove the 3 screws holding the pump on. Take the old pump out. Screw the 3 screws back on. Attach the drive mechanism with the clamp carefully being sure to even it out under the clamp as you tighten it. Reattach the hoses. One of my hoses leaked after wards so I had to trim a half inch off to get a better grab on the pump. Put the back on and stand her up. Plug it in and test her out.

remove enough screws in rear panel to access water inlet valve. remove two screws holding water inlet valve to washer frame and flex valve outward enough to remove clamp on water inlet tube. wiggle inlet tube off of valve inlet nipple and back valve out enough to see wires. after noting wiring color codes remove the four wires from the old valve and discard old valve. install the new valve simply by reversing entire process. only difficult part of entire process is removing and reinstalling the inlet tube on the valve body as the tube is short and limits room to work.

had to pull knob out to see the clip locking the knob to the post.
finally got the clip out, pulled knob off sand put on new knob with new clip

Repair was relativly simple. I read previous customer direction submissions. I found that laying the front of the washing macine down removing the back panel gave easy access to the water pump. Remove all 4 hoses first then with a 11/32nd socket remove the top 3 screws that are holding up the pump. At the bottom of the pump unscrew the clamp until the pump will slide out of the rubber stabelizer.(Leave stabelizer attached to the motor) Remove the pump and in reverse order replace with new pump leaving the back cover off of the machine. Set the washing machine upright and check for leeks. After checking for leeks attach the back panel onto the washing machine.

Laid washer face down, unscrewed the 3 screws holding part to brackets. Removed the hose connections to the pump part. loosened the clamp around the base of the pump and pulled the part out. inserted new pump, tightened the clamp, reconnected the hoses, and bolted the part to the brackets. First time through, one of the hoses was not tight enough, so we put a new clamp on it and it worked fine.

Took agitator out of machine knocked old coupling out and inserted new one into agitator/washing machine. Part arrived promptl and correctly. Thank you. JD

First opened top cover using a putty knife to release the spring load catches in front.
Second, removed the old splash guard by carefully prying the retainer wire off the flange of the washing machine top. The retaining wire needs to be reused.
Third, put the retaining wire on the splash guard and worked it on to the washing maching top flange using a screwdrive to pry it over the lip a little bit at a time.
It is important to place the splash guard on the locating pin so that the spout for water recirculation will fit through the hole in the splash guard.

First I moved the washing machine out from wall. I then took a flat head screwdriver to pryed up the top to gain access to the shield cover. I then pulled of the retaineing wire clamp. Cleaned up all surfaces for preperation of new shield. Installed new shield cover and closed top of macine!!

I removed 2 screws on the top control panel to tilt the panel back. Then "popped" the hinges. I then removed 2 screws on the rear panel, to "pick up" the panel out of its locking position. Then the rear panel was loose. I removed the 2 srews holding the water inlet valve to the panel, removed the hose and placed the new water inlet valve in position. Assembled everything back to gether. After a $16.00 part was replaced, the washing machine worked like a brand new one with very high water flow. It was a very simple task to do on your own.

My appliance repair man replaced the inlet hoses into the washing machine and in doing so damaged the threads on the hot water inlet which resulted in a seriuous leak. I removed the 4 screws that held the damaged water inet valve (#PS270305)in place (inlet valcve and solenoid), removed the 4 wires to the solenid (noting the order in which they wree attached) and simply reattached the electrical wiring and screwed the inlet valve in place with the 4 screws that I had taken off to remove the old part.

I disconnected two wires on back of inlet valve,then I removed the plastic hose connected to left side of valve. Removed old valve and replaced it with the new one.Attached hot/cold hoses and turned on washing machine to check for leaks.