WW30430PU Jenn-Air Wall Oven - Instructions

Replaced the thermostat according to existing videos and had to adjust the thermostat using instuctions in the user manual for model CWE4800ACB.

Extremely simple repair to make. Move stove away from wall and disconnect power. Remove the oven racks. Remove the rear sheet metal panel covering the wiring harnesses. Caution: Sharp edges and corners on sheet metal.Sensor is located in upper left corner on rear oven wall. Using a long-shafted #2 Philips screwdriver, remove the two Philips head screws and gently pull the sensor 1" away from the oven wall. At this point, it will help to have an assist from someone while you are behind the range. Have the assistant gently tug on the sensor while you watch for wires moving on the rear of the range. After locating the sensor wires, gently disconnect the plastic connector clip. Note: plastic connectors become brittle with age and exposure to heat Move to front of range and gently remove sensor from rear wall by pulling the wiring through the oven wall. Before inserting the new sensor wire through the oven wall, "dry fit" the wiring connectors to see that the new sensor is a correct connection. Make connection, and secure the sensor to the rear oven wall with the two screws. Install racks, reinstall rear sheet metal panel, and connect the power. Set the oven baking temperature to a moderately low temp, 300 - 350 deg. to test the new sensor.

I removed the two mounting screws and pulled the harness through the opening unsnapped the sensor from the harness and installed the new sensor i didn't have to used the adapters the new sensor fitted

Although only one side hinge had snapped, I replaced both sides with new oven door hinges. Followed the website video installation directions and all went well; the new hinges work perfectly.

I switched the oven sensor easily enough, but it did not remedy the problem, so we are in the process of replacing the oven since it's about 20 yrs. old.

Unplugged the range, removed screws holding the old sensor. When I pulled it out, the wire connecting to the sensor was completely broken through,therefore I could not just pull the wire to get to the connector. Unscrewed one side of back panel to access the connector. Pushed the connector and wire of the new sensor through the hole ( and behind the insulation), disconnected the old sensor and connected the new one. Re screwed the new connector in place plus rescrewed the back panel. Plugged the range in and - Viola! Everything now works like a charm and I have my oven back. Easy-Peasy. Oh - I am an older female with very limited DYI experience. I just saved myself $650.00!

Removed the two screws holding the sensor to the rear oven wall. pulled out sensor wire. It was caught on other wires behind the oven. removed the three screws holding the 8" inspection plate in the center of the rear panel. Carefully move the insulation and reach in to grasp the back end of the sensor wire. Once free from the snag it easily pulls out with the sensor just as stated in the video. using the appropriate adaptor it was easy to re-asseble and and attach to the oven wall. Replace the rear panel with the three screws and it was done

Oven sensor replacement was easy. Thermistor was installed in less than 15 minutes. After installation STILL had "F3" error message. Harness was ok, "Clock" or ECU needed to be replaced. "Computer" is obsolete, no spares available, some companies will rebuilt for $400+. Since the stove was going to the landfill I had nothing to lose by taking the "Clock" apart. It has one chip that is probably the power supply and control chip, another chip is an EEPROM with 128 bytes of storage and the last is a darlington chip that controls the relays. Cleaned up everything that looked like it needed cleaning with alcohol. When I reassembled the unit the pins for the thermistor harness felt loose, so I took it apart, again, and found cold solder joints on all four pins. It must have been there all along but plugging and unplugging the harness finally broke out the solder so I could see it. Soldered the pins back in and now it all works. It's worth a try if you're getting the "F3" message. If the relays on your stove aren't working it would be a good idea to replace the darlington chip. Good luck.

I installed the new oven sensor but the problem continued. So I ordered a new relay board and installed it. Still no luck. So I pulled the new board back out and started trouble shooting it using my electronic background. I discovered the new board was using a pin for L2 that had no exit on the backplane, so I removed it and installed it where I believed it should go. Reinstalled the power relay board and presto. My oven is working lie a champ. Louis

Very easy to repair, but you have to be able to pull your stove out. Two screws in the oven and then remove part of back cover of oven and one plug from there. Simple to do, but did not fix our problem. We are waiting repair now from service company as it looks like it needs a control panel. Worth trying yourself to fix the problem. Inexpensive part and easy to install. Also be sure to turn power off your oven to reset the control panel as this may fix the problem - try this first and also after installing new part - like rebooting a computer...

First, I turned the power off to the oven. With a screwdriver, I removed the 3 screws above and the 4 screws below the control panel. Next, gently pulled out the control panel. Three cables attached the electronic clock assembly to the bundle of cables controlling the oven. By pulling on the plastic tabs, I was able to loosen two of the cables. The other "cable" resembles a ribbon. Squeeze the black tabs on each side of the base of the ribbon connector and pull slightly. The ribbon itself then needs to be bent and gently removed from the connector (you can see two slits in the ribbon that hold it in place). Using my wrench set, I removed the four screws that held the electronic clock assembly to the control panel. Then I attached the new clock assembly, replaced the cables and ribbon cable, snapped in the control panel and secured it into place with the seven screws. It was very easy to do this.

Had to remove oven from mounting cabinet to get to the back since the wire lenght to the conector was to short to come through the mounting hole.
Other than that the repair was straight forward. 4 screws to dismount the Oven from cabinet, 2 screws to remove Sensor and 3 srews to open the back of the oven once out in the open. New cable adapter that came with the new sensor was needed in my case.

Removed the metal panel, approx 5 screws, removed LED approx 4 screws and a few electronic connecters. very easy saved $100's vs calling a repair person

I removed the control panel to replace the electronic clock and and was very simple. Remove the screws beneath the assembly, then lift if off the flange at the top. If you have a cabinet door above, you may need to remove the door to provide enough space to lift up and remove the assembly from the flange. The other posts really helped in understanding how to remove the old clock assembly - only word of caution concerns the removal of the black electronic contact wire strip - you need to lift up on two small tabs on each side and it slips out easily.

The over door hinge assebly is described well in prior posts and is very simple. If you are replacing your hinges, just do all of them as I found they were all suffering from fatigue. Remember to place a small nail in the hole in the hinge to prevent the old hinge from snapping when you remove it. When you inspect you new hinge, you'll see they've placed a temporary piece in the hinge assembly so you can slide it into the holder on a slight angle. Then replace the screw and backet that holds the hinge in place. When complete, open the oven fully and remove the small metal piece so the hinge can close completely.

One post mentioned the need to replace the hinge post on the side of the oven that holds the hinge in place on the oven. I opted not to do this and the new hinges work perfectly without getting involved in removing this part.

I found this entire experience easy and efficient - for just over $200, we have a control display that we can see and two oven doors that open and close easily!

Switch off the breaker to the oven. Unscrew the 3 top and 4 bottom screws holding on the control panel cover. Unplug the 2 cables from the clock assembly (which run to the oven). Remove the 4 hex screws which attach the clock assembly to the control panel cover. Unplug the ribbon which attaches the clock assembly to the control panel cover by lifting the black tabs and sliding it out (there is not a plug on the end of the ribbon). Switch out the old clock assembly for the new one, reverse the steps to put it back together.