Parts That Fix Whirlpool Washer WTW5100SQ0 Will not agitate
Will not agitate is a commonly reported symptom for the WTW5100SQ0 Whirlpool Washer, and we have put together a full guide on how to fix this. This advice is based on feedback from people who own this exact appliance. We have listed the most common parts for your WTW5100SQ0 Whirlpool Washer that will fix Will not agitate. We have included repair instructions, and helpful step-by-step video tutorials. If you are experiencing this issue, not to worry, DIYers just like you have fixed this, and shared their experience to help you!
Fixes Symptom 57% of time
This direct drive motor coupling (Direct Drive Washer Motor Coupling, Motor Coupling, Washer Motor Coupling, Coupling Kit) provides a cushioned connection between the transmission and the motor shaft. It attaches to the direct-drive transmission and the motor shaft. If this part is defective it will affect the agitator in your washer because of its direct connection with the motor. Your washer may not agitate, spin slowly, or not spin at all. The coupling must be replaced when there is no longer a consistent connection between the transmission and the motor shaft. The coupling can wear over time because of its location between two major parts of the dryer. It is subject to material fatigue over time from normal use, or breakage caused by frequent overloading. The part measures approximately 2 inches in diameter, and is constructed of plastic and metal. This model comes in black/white.
$
27.87
In Stock
PartSelect Number PS1485646
Manufacturer Part Number 285753A
Replacing your Whirlpool Washer Direct Drive Motor Coupling
Customer Repair Stories
Broken Coupling
Very easy -
1. Removed hoses from the pump
2. Removed Wiring harness from the motor
3. Unscrewed saftey screws from both clamps which hold the motor against the motor bracket.
4. Using a screw driver I easily removed/pryed the clamps from the motor.
5. I then removed the broken plastic coupler from the motor sha ... Read more ft and installed the new one coupler.
6. I did the same thing on the clutch side.
7. I set the Rubber coupler in clutch side.
8. Put motor back on until couplers joined together.
9. Placed Brackets back on Motor (patience here).
10. screwed back saftey screws on clamps.
11. connected hoses back.
Thats it... 45 minutes at most .. Save me from having to buy a new easher. I was convinced I was going to have too until I peeked underneatch the washer and saw the rubber coupler on the ground...
1. Removed hoses from the pump
2. Removed Wiring harness from the motor
3. Unscrewed saftey screws from both clamps which hold the motor against the motor bracket.
4. Using a screw driver I easily removed/pryed the clamps from the motor.
5. I then removed the broken plastic coupler from the motor sha ... Read more ft and installed the new one coupler.
6. I did the same thing on the clutch side.
7. I set the Rubber coupler in clutch side.
8. Put motor back on until couplers joined together.
9. Placed Brackets back on Motor (patience here).
10. screwed back saftey screws on clamps.
11. connected hoses back.
Thats it... 45 minutes at most .. Save me from having to buy a new easher. I was convinced I was going to have too until I peeked underneatch the washer and saw the rubber coupler on the ground...
Read less
-
Hugo from Frisco, TX
-
Difficulty Level:Really Easy
-
Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
-
Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
217 of 230 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
No movement from Basket & agitator
The job looked intimidating but turned out to be very easy.
First take off the water pump by removing the two clips that hold it in place. Place a shallow pan under the pump to catch the water that is in the pump and hoses. Open the hose clamps with a pair of pliers or channel locks (better) and slide the hoses off of the water pum ... Read more p.
The motor comes off next. Unplug the electrical connector from the motor and two wires from the capacitor. Remove the two screws holding the clamps in place and then pop off the two clamps. You will need to hold up the motor with one hand while you remove the clamps or it will fall to the floor once the clamps are removed.
One piece of the coupling assemble will be attached to the motor and the other will be attached to the gearcase drive shaft. If you want to clean up the mess created by the shredded rubber center piece of the coupling assembly you will have to take off the motor mounting plate. It is held on by two bolts and removing it makes installing the coupling easier but probably not necessary.
Push the back half of the coupling on to the gearcase drive shaft until the shaft is flush with the face of the coupling. Install the new rubber center piece on to the coupling then re-install the motor mounting plate. Install the other half of the coupling on to the motor shaft and lift the motor up to the coupling. You have to rotate the motor shaft by spinning the fan blades until the coupling lines up so you can slide it into the other half of the coupling. Then just reattach the motor, connectors and water pump in the reverse order of disassembly.
First take off the water pump by removing the two clips that hold it in place. Place a shallow pan under the pump to catch the water that is in the pump and hoses. Open the hose clamps with a pair of pliers or channel locks (better) and slide the hoses off of the water pum ... Read more p.
The motor comes off next. Unplug the electrical connector from the motor and two wires from the capacitor. Remove the two screws holding the clamps in place and then pop off the two clamps. You will need to hold up the motor with one hand while you remove the clamps or it will fall to the floor once the clamps are removed.
One piece of the coupling assemble will be attached to the motor and the other will be attached to the gearcase drive shaft. If you want to clean up the mess created by the shredded rubber center piece of the coupling assembly you will have to take off the motor mounting plate. It is held on by two bolts and removing it makes installing the coupling easier but probably not necessary.
Push the back half of the coupling on to the gearcase drive shaft until the shaft is flush with the face of the coupling. Install the new rubber center piece on to the coupling then re-install the motor mounting plate. Install the other half of the coupling on to the motor shaft and lift the motor up to the coupling. You have to rotate the motor shaft by spinning the fan blades until the coupling lines up so you can slide it into the other half of the coupling. Then just reattach the motor, connectors and water pump in the reverse order of disassembly.
Read less
-
Jeff from Wayne, NJ
-
Difficulty Level:Easy
-
Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
-
Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
1089 of 1169 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Fixes Symptom 24% of time
This kit contains one screw with rubber gasket and threaded sealant. The screw head is 7/16".
$
7.04
In Stock
PartSelect Number PS11741866
Manufacturer Part Number WP358237
Replacing your Kenmore Washer Agitator Bolt
Customer Repair Stories
The agitator had stopped working
We got the parts, watched your video a couple of times and then began the repair. It went well with one exception. None of my socket extensions were long enough to work well. The required length might be added to the video and the printed installation instructions. Also it would have nice to have been able to order a small tube of the rec
... Read more
ommended lubricant. Overall I was very pleased. Jack
Read less
-
Jack from Matthews, NC
-
Difficulty Level:Easy
-
Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
-
Tools:Socket set
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
could not get the bottom agitator to release, so finally just left it in place, first bolt I had did not fit right so ordered one directly from your store also had to wait dor my tools to get in
I am an old woman who is disabled and without any tools or knowledge, but sheer stubbornness and will power, I waited for my tools and other parts to come in, in the mean time I fixed my young neighbors whirlpool washer, well We took top off the nut I had already pre assembled her cam so set it in place of old one put bolt back in place a
... Read more
nd the top of agitator she says works perfectly now, my parts came in I had nothing to remove as my handicap daughter had already thrown away all the loose parts, I threw away old top agitator, assembled cam and put in place still did not feel tight enough so added seal from other nut!! it worked tight enough, put the inner part back in with new part and soap put the top back on and now works good as new, was disappointed could not put bottom agitator in place, just not strong enough lol well this was my story
Read less
-
Linda Dianne from Poteau, OK
-
Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
-
Total Repair Time:More than 2 hours
-
Tools:Socket set
1 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Fixes Symptom 6% of time
This part is found in your washer. The pin on the lid pushes on the lever of the lid switch to tell the machine that the lid is closed. This part includes the green grounding wire. If your machine is having trouble starting, is not agitating, spinning, or is not draining properly, this could be because the lid switch has broken. You will need a 5/16-inch nut driver for this repair. The package will contain one lid switch. You will need to access the back of the washer, and remove the two Phillips screws that hold the top back panel in place. Slide the panel forward to release. Use your nut driver to loosen the screw that holds the ground wire in place. Lift the lid of the washer to release the old lid switch.
$
45.97
In Stock
PartSelect Number PS11745957
Manufacturer Part Number WP8318084
Customer Repair Stories
Lid switch stopped workin
Unplug washing machine from electrical outlet. Remove two screws that go at a 45 degree angle into the top of washer from behind control panel. Pull panel console towards you and then up. unplug lid switch from wire harness. It's in upper left corner of the washer. A little awkward but lid must be open. pull switch up from top of washer.
... Read more
insert new one, it just clips in, then plug back into harness. Re mount control console and you are done.
Read less
-
Frank from brunswick, GA
-
Difficulty Level:Really Easy
-
Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
-
Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
57 of 69 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Washer wouldn't run
I removed the two screws on the back of the control panel. The control panel then flips back. The switch is on the left side. To remove the switch, I first detached the wire to the control panel and unscrewed the grounding wire. The new switch drops right in. I had a little trouble getting it in until I realized the washer lid had to
... Read more
be open. A little awkward but once it's in you can shut the lid and then I reattached the wire from the control panel and screwed in the grounding wire. Pretty easy. $20 for the part (with shipping) and 15 minutes. Way cheaper than a repairman.
Read less
-
Clint from Kansas City, KS
-
Difficulty Level:Really Easy
-
Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
-
Tools:Screw drivers, Socket set
325 of 366 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Fixes Symptom 5% of time
A clutch assembly (Clutch, Washer Clutch) is found in your washing machine and is responsible for spinning the basket during the spin cycle. The clutch lining can wear over time. If the clutch lining is worn out, the clutch assembly will not rotate properly to release the brake. If you notice a burning smell, or the machine shaking and moving more than normal, this could indicate there is an issue with your clutch. If the washer spins when the washer basket is empty but not when it’s full, or if the assembly begins to turn blue, you may need to replace the clutch assembly. This assembly includes a brake cam driver, blue springs for large capacity washers, a black spring for compact washers, and the installation instructions. It’s constructed of plastic and metal, and comes in beige/silver.
$
27.58
In Stock
PartSelect Number PS334641
Manufacturer Part Number 285785
Replacing your Whirlpool Washer Clutch Assembly
Customer Repair Stories
Clothes washer would not spin with more than a couple socks in it. It would barely spin when empty.
Diagnosing the problem was the toughest part. I originally called a repair man - described to him the problem and he said it was most likely the transmission (gearbox)... of course that is one of the most expensive parts! I asked him if it was maybe the clutch... he said there was no clutch.. only a brake... I knew he was wrong after rese
... Read more
arching. The fact that the washer would agitate fine and spin very light loads but not spin anything heavy told me it was NOT the gearbox.. or the brake.. it was the clutch.. it had to be... so I called the repair man and canceled the appointment I had made then ordered the clutch assembly. Showed up very quickly. Now to the repair. I realized that I did not have to take apart the cabinet section of the washer.. I only needed access to the bottom. My washer - a 5 year old Whirlpool Gold Ultimate Care II had just a piece of foam blocking off the bottom of the washer... Easy access... I disconnected the hot and cold water and the drain tube. I removed the hot and cold water tubes from the back of the washer also so they would not get crushed when I laid the machine on its back. I unplugged the washer also. The drain tube I left connected to the washer.. I was afaid of it getting crushed while on its back, so I bunched up a large towel put it on the floor and tilted the washer slowly back onto it... the towel was enough of a spacer to keep the drain hose from getting crushed. I used a couple pieces of Duct Tape to hold the lid shut while on its back. I then removed the foam insert on the bottom. Then I unplugged the wiring harness. and a single wire that had a spade connector in the same area. I then removed the clips from the plastic water pump and slid it off the motor (I used Duct Tape again to suspend the water pump up and out of my way while I proceeded) I did NOT have to remove the motor from the gearbox. I used a socket wrench and unbolted the 3 gearbox bolts. I was able to take the whole unit, gearbox and motor out in one piece.. it slid right out (you will have to unscrew the the bolt in the top of the agitator/dispenser shaft - then the gearbox unit with the shaft will slide right out, I did this before I put the washer on it's back) Once it was slid out, I removed the clutch then reinstalled the same way I took it off. The only hard part was the circular wire retainer install for the clutch. It CAN all be done .. I ended up using 2 screwdrivers to put the new retaining ring into the new clutch assembly.. One screwdriver would hold down part of the retaining ring and the other I used to continue pushing the ring into place.. don't give up! You will get it in.. even with normal tools (This was the hardest part of the whole install) It took me 5 minutes with some force and fiddling. I also swapped in the new plastic piece that came with the clutch assembly... you will see where it goes... the old plastic piece looked fine, but I changed it out anyways - it hooks the clutch to the brake system it looks like. After the new clutch assembly was installed I just put it all back together the way I took it apart. One thing I will add was I was not sure if the clutch had to be lined up when I slid the shaft back into the washer.. It does not have to be.. It will align itself automatically. You know when you hear that click/pop when the washer is about to spin?.. well that is that plastic piece engaging with the clutch... there was a piece or two that fell off the shaft when I had removed it.. While sliding the shaft back into the washer I had to just put the pieces back on the shaft before I put the bolt back into the top of the agitator/shaft...
Summary:
Get the washer on its back - unplugged!
remove wire(s) Harness from motor
remove water pump
unbolt 3 bolts holding the gearbox
slide gearbox and motor out as one piece ( a bit heavy)
remove and replace clutch assembly (pay attention to how things are removed)
Done! put it all back together... hope that helps. It worked perfect for me.. and m
Summary:
Get the washer on its back - unplugged!
remove wire(s) Harness from motor
remove water pump
unbolt 3 bolts holding the gearbox
slide gearbox and motor out as one piece ( a bit heavy)
remove and replace clutch assembly (pay attention to how things are removed)
Done! put it all back together... hope that helps. It worked perfect for me.. and m
Read less
-
Shawn from Longmont, CO
-
Difficulty Level:Easy
-
Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
-
Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
250 of 258 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
spin cycle did not engage
researched potential causes, found cluch dust under the washer and determined that it wouldn't engage because clutch was too worn. ordered the assembly, removed agitator from inside the tub as it is connected to the gear shaft, turned washer on it's back for access to motor, unattached the direct drive water pump from the motor drive, unb
... Read more
olted the 3 gearcase mounting bolts and took the entire gearcase, shaft, motor, etc... together, out from under the washtub. the clutch slides off the gearshaft with a little fidgeting and the new assembly is easily installed where the previous was. put everything back together... then... spin spin! worked perfectly
Read less
-
Andrew from SLC, UT
-
Difficulty Level:Easy
-
Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
-
Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Socket set
487 of 520 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
5 Washer
Fixes Symptom 4% of time
This part goes on the agitator retaining bolt.
$
7.69
In Stock
PartSelect Number PS11742027
Manufacturer Part Number WP3949550
Replacing your Whirlpool Washer Washer
Customer Repair Stories
agitator broke
very easy to repair , instructions very clear , parts person very good to talk to, parts got here fast
-
Joseph from Kalkaska, MI
-
Difficulty Level:Really Easy
-
Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
-
Tools:Socket set
0 of 1 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
6 Gearcase
Fixes Symptom 1% of time
This is used in your direct drive washer that has a neutral drain.
$
379.68
In Stock
PartSelect Number PS341974
Manufacturer Part Number 3360629
Replacing your Whirlpool Washer Gearcase
Customer Repair Stories
The spin gear was striped.
I had to take the motor and transmission out. They are one piece. Removed the clutch, take off trans. cover, remove a snap ring, take the striped gear off, and put the new one on. Then put put everything back on the way it came off.
-
Aaron from Lake Mills, WI
-
Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
-
Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
-
Tools:Pliers, Socket set
21 of 27 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
The washer wouldn't spin or agitate.
Frist I disconnected the water lines and power cord. Then I leaned the washer back against the wall. Removed the 2 pump retainers and then the pump. Next removed the 2 screws from the motor retainers and pulled off the retainers and motor. Then removed the 3 bolts from the Gear case. Then removed the cap from the top of the agitator with
... Read more
a flat screw driver. Then removed the bolt from the top of the gear shaft. and removed the auger and agitator assembly. Then removed the gear case from the washer. Next removed the slip ring and then the clutch from the top of the gear case. Next removed the 1/4" screws from cover of gear case and removed the cover. Found the top gear bad. Ordered the new gear and pinion kit. Couldn't find any part #'s to match what PartSelect had. Ordered the gear that they should that fit most washers. The pics they had up looked the same as the one that was bad. Had the new gear in 3 days put it back together and it still wouldn't work right. Took it apart again and looked at it and found a small clip on the bottom side of the gear was upside down. Fliped it over put the gear back in and ran the washer with the gear case out and it worked. Put it back together again. And learned a good lesson always watch how you take things apart for when it's time to put it back together!
Read less
-
david from Monroe, MI
-
Difficulty Level:Very Difficult
-
Total Repair Time:More than 2 hours
-
Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
49 of 52 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Fixes Symptom 1% of time
This part rotates back and forth to move the clothes around during the wash cycle.
$
155.50
In Stock
PartSelect Number PS11743336
Manufacturer Part Number WP63235
Customer Repair Stories
The agitator was not spinning.
I took a straight screwdriver and popped off the cap on top of agitator. Then used a ratchet with an extender and loosened and took out the bolt in the agitator. Then pulled the agitator straight up and inserted the new one.
-
Steven from BRUCETON MLS, WV
-
Difficulty Level:Really Easy
-
Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
-
Tools:Screw drivers, Socket set
1 person
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
agitator spin freely by hand. plastic splines striped out
remove cap on top of agitator, use socket with extension to remove bolt. pull up to remove old agitator, reverse order to install new part.
-
kerry from WALKERTON, IN
-
Difficulty Level:Really Easy
-
Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
-
Tools:Screw drivers, Socket set
2 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Fixes Symptom 1% of time
This part is for large capacity belt drive and direct drive appliances.
$
23.77
In Stock
PartSelect Number PS11741977
Manufacturer Part Number WP389140
Replacing your Kenmore Washer Drive Block - 2 5/16 Inch High
Customer Repair Stories
No spin on spin cycle
Easy, If your drive block has an open top, it's worn. Look at a picture of a new drive block and compare. If it doesn't match, then you need a new drive block. Note: Also check the drive clutch and clutch liners or pads...they may be worn. In my case it was the drive block this time. So to start, take off the fabric softenner dispens
... Read more
er in the center of the washer. Then pull out the seal. then remove the bolt. and pull off the agitator assembly. after that tap off the lock nut with a punch and hammer or if you have the special spanner wrench tool, use that. Once removed, pull out the inner tub and then pull the drive block off the shaft. Put the new drive block on and reverse the procedure from there. Tap the lock nut tight with the punch and hammer while re-installing. I'm so glad I did this repair. $15 is so much better than just giving in and buying a new washer!!!
Read less
-
Thomas from Port Jervis, NY
-
Difficulty Level:Really Easy
-
Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
-
Tools:Wrench (Adjustable)
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Loud Banging Sound At The End Of Spin Cycle
First I removed the two screws on the back of the control console( at the bottom, phillips head). Flip that up and out of the way. Then you could remove the 2 big clips that hold the back of the washer to the cabinet. Disconnect the lid switch and flip the cabinet forward and out of the way. Remember when putting the cabinet back on,
... Read more
line up the slots on the bottom of the cabinet with the toungues on the base. Next pull off the fabric softner dispenser, then reach down in there and pull out the bottom seal of that to expose the bolt that hold the agitator on. Remove that bolt and pull off the agitator. Remove that little clip and the plastic piece above the spanner nut. I didn't have a spanner wrench so I hade to use a small extension from my socket set and a hammer to loosen it. Once that is removed then you could remove the ring around the top of the tub, and pull the tub off. Now you could see the block and probably all the metal shavings it's been creating. If the two ears that stick up and fit in to the block are worn, you should replace that too. I think you hve to replace that from the bottom. Now just put it all back together. Print out the exploded diagram from the web sit so you have it right there. Good luck!
Read less
-
John from Hawley, PA
-
Difficulty Level:Easy
-
Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
-
Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
132 of 540 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Fixes Symptom less than 1% of time
This is the cap for your agitator.
$
11.10
In Stock
PartSelect Number PS11741199
Manufacturer Part Number WP3355758
Fixes Symptom less than 1% of time
This kit comes with springs, hardware, and brake lining.
$
53.07
In Stock
PartSelect Number PS334642
Manufacturer Part Number 285790
Customer Repair Stories
Washmachine wouldn't spindry
I removed three bolts from the transmission and two clips that hold the motor to the drive gear. I replaced the brake cam that had cracked and the lining. Now it works great ! Ordered part on Friday before two and it came Saturday at four.
-
Chuck from South Holland, IL
-
Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
-
Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
-
Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
14 of 16 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Spin cycle stopped working
Farly easy repair, once I figured out the problem. The clutch assebly plastic part broke (over 15 yrs old), which is the part that engages the drum for the spin cycle. Following the very helpful diagram on Part Select, I removed the agitator cap and bolt from inside the agitator assembly, and pulled the assembly out of the drum. Then I
... Read more
put the washer on its side and removed the three bolts and two hose claps that hold the motor assembly. I pulled the motor assembly along with the drive shaft out to access the clutch/brake assembly area, removed the broken plastic drive piece and re-assembled.
Read less
-
Brent from Highlands Ranch, CO
-
Difficulty Level:Easy
-
Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
-
Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
40 of 47 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Fixes Symptom less than 1% of time
This is a 2-speed drive motor for your washing machine. The motor rotates the spin basket when the washing machine is in spin or tumbling mode. You will likely need to replace the motor if you are experiencing burning smells or your washer will not start. The tools you will need to make this repair include a number two Phillips screwdriver, a flat-blade screwdriver, and a 5/16 nut driver.
$
216.94
In Stock
PartSelect Number PS11743427
Manufacturer Part Number WP661600
Replacing your Whirlpool Washer 2-Speed Drive Motor - 60Hz 120V
Customer Repair Stories
washer motor burned out
1. Watch a video on installation, there are many on the internet.
(unplug the washer)
2. remove the screws on the back of the control panel to lift the control panel out of the way.
3. use a flat head screwdriver to remove the clips that hold the cabinet to the back panel.
4. disconnect the lid switch from the control ... Read more panel by removing the clip that connects them at the top of the cabinet.
5. tilt the cabinet forward to remove it.
6. use a flat head screw driver to remove the two clips that hold the water pump to the motor and swing the water pump out of the way.
7. use a nut driver to remove the shipping screw that holds the clips on to the motor.
8. disconnect the wiring harness from the motor
9. remove the two clips from the motor with a flat head screwdriver and remove the motor
remove the three prong coupler and rubber gasket from the old motor and put them on the shaft of the new motor
10. remove the 4 rubber pads from the old motor and slide them onto the new motor.
11. insert the new motor into the washer aligning the prongs of the coupler.
12 reassemble the washer in reverse order of disassembly
(the shipping screw does not need to be reinserted into the spring clip that holds the motor)
(unplug the washer)
2. remove the screws on the back of the control panel to lift the control panel out of the way.
3. use a flat head screwdriver to remove the clips that hold the cabinet to the back panel.
4. disconnect the lid switch from the control ... Read more panel by removing the clip that connects them at the top of the cabinet.
5. tilt the cabinet forward to remove it.
6. use a flat head screw driver to remove the two clips that hold the water pump to the motor and swing the water pump out of the way.
7. use a nut driver to remove the shipping screw that holds the clips on to the motor.
8. disconnect the wiring harness from the motor
9. remove the two clips from the motor with a flat head screwdriver and remove the motor
remove the three prong coupler and rubber gasket from the old motor and put them on the shaft of the new motor
10. remove the 4 rubber pads from the old motor and slide them onto the new motor.
11. insert the new motor into the washer aligning the prongs of the coupler.
12 reassemble the washer in reverse order of disassembly
(the shipping screw does not need to be reinserted into the spring clip that holds the motor)
Read less
-
Joseph from SANFORD, NC
-
Difficulty Level:Really Easy
-
Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
-
Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
3 of 5 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
I smelled smoke and then it quit working
First unplug the electrical chord and disconnect the water supply after you have turned it off. Drain all water you can by putting the drain hose into a bucket or water container lower then the drain hose. Remove the two screws at base of the front panel. Then go to the back side of the machine remove the two screws at the top of the bac
... Read more
k panel, this allow you to remove the top switch panel. Remove the two screws at the bottom outside corners of the back panel and then you can lift the panel up and away from the base. I leaned the back against my dryer because I did not have a helper. Go to the front of the machine, lift the lid and grasp with one hand the machine's sheet metal lift and pull it off the base. There are two metal clips attaching the pump to the motor. The pump slides off and I did not have to remove the hoses. Unclip the electrical connectors from the motor and capacitor. The motor is mounted with two clips with a screw secure it in place. Unscrew and unclip and the motor should slide out. Be sure to inspect the direct drive coupler, the parts not too expensive. I had replaced mine just 4 months ago so I was good to go. Reverse the procedure and you should be in business.
Read less
-
Paul from Lakewood, WA
-
Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
-
Total Repair Time:More than 2 hours
-
Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
43 of 48 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Fixes Symptom less than 1% of time
This kit is used for direct drive washing machines and is found inside the gearcase.
$
124.64
In Stock
PartSelect Number PS11741981
Manufacturer Part Number WP389387
Customer Repair Stories
Washer would try to agitate during spin cycle.
Very old washing machine began to make a horrible noise and agitator would attempt to agitate during spin cycle. Eventually determined that the problem was in the transmission. The way the transmission works is that when the motor runs in one direction a metal fork pushes on a cam mechanism and lifts a spring loaded gear on the agitator
... Read more
shaft from the gears that make it move, putting it in neutral so that it can spin freely with the basket in the spin cycle. When the motor runs the other way the same fork pulls on the cam and drops the gear down so that it engages with the agitator mechanism. The problem was that the plastic cam pieces on the base of the shaft had worn down to the point where they where not fully lifting the gear clear and it was partially engaging with the drive mechanism. Repair was relatively straight forward except the YouTube video that I was using showed the parts on upside down. All the other transmission parts are labeled with TOP on one side but oddly the cam pieces are not marked. For reference the U shaped protrusion on the cam parts goes on the top of the assembly, not the bottom. All in all it took me about 12 hours to do this fix, but at least 10 of that was simply trying to figure out how the mechanism worked and tracking down the problem. Be sure to refill the transmission case and use some RTV sealant to seal the cover back on when you are done, just like you would for an oil pan on an engine.
Read less
-
Lorin from Arlee, MT
-
Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
-
Total Repair Time:More than 2 hours
-
Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
13 Spanner Nut
Fixes Symptom less than 1% of time
Right hand threaded nut holds the tub in place in direct drive, top loading washing machines. To remove the spanner nut you will need a spanner wrench.
$
10.83
In Stock
PartSelect Number PS11738884
Manufacturer Part Number WP21366
Fixes Symptom less than 1% of time
Sold Individually.
$
17.96
In Stock
PartSelect Number PS11743304
Manufacturer Part Number WP62691