WTR430ES1 Westinghouse Washer - Instructions

The original inlet valve comes in from the rear and the replacement inlet valve mounts horizontally and this will not allow the use of the valve mounting plate and I needed to make a new plate so the supply hose could mount. After making the new plate and having the supply hose attach vertically, the system appears to be functioning properly. Having to make a new mounting plate was an unexpected adventure!

I have a stackable unit in a small closet. So unlike others, I couldn't remove the top or back panels and did everything from the lower access panel. I followed the video though multiple caveats as mentioned by others: 1. The right shock absorber is a pain b/c of the box sitting behind, which I could not remove (again, dryer stacked on top and no access to the back). I think its nearly impossible to insert the new plastic pin the correct way (I had to bend the old one to get it out), so like others, I put the new one in backwards (and made sure to change the direction of the shock absorber as well). 2. Reinstalling that hose that blocks access to the right shock absorber is not as easy as it looks. if you get it on right away, don't mess around with it. I had great difficulty trying to get it perfect and ultimately could never get it back to its original position. 3. I'd recommend getting a stubby (short handle) hammer to get the old pins out. As mentioned by others, you can also just use your fingers to depress the tab to get them out. After installing the shocks, it solved the problem except for the last 4-5 minutes (high spin speed). I had planned to try to see if the suspension spring was broken, but after running the washer 2 more times, it's now stopped spinning entirely and I'm planning on getting a new washer/dryer (I'm concerned it's now the bearing, possibly b/c i ran the washer 2 more times).

In order to get to the switch located on the right front behind the from panel the top had to be removed with 2 screws holding it in place on the back of the machine. Next the top front control panel needed to be removed by first removing the detergent drawer on the top left of the washer. There are 3 screws that need to be removed behind the slide out dispenser. ALS there are 2screws on the top left and right that need to be removed.. Once these are all removed you can slip the control panel up and over the top and let it rest there. I might suggest that you should unplug the machine from the electrical outlet. Once this is all done there are 4 screws holding the bottom of the front panel that must be removed. If you have pedestals on your machine you can pull the drawer out to get to them. If not you will need tp tilt the machine back and using a block let it rest on it to get to them. Once these are removed you will need to remove the block and set the washer back on its feet. There are now 2 screws at the top to be removed. Once removed lift and pull out the front panel. Set aside. You are now ready to remove the front rubber boot from the washer.. There is a spring that is behind the front rubber that needs to be removed. Using a screwdriver, at the bottom of the front boot you will see the springs once you peel a bit of the rubber back. Remove the spring and set aside.. Now you are ready to remove the door lock switch. Using a Phillips screwdriver remove the screws from the front panel and push the switch back toward the rear. It should pop out very easy. Unplug the switch from the harness and replace with a new switch.. Put the machine back together in the reverse order. Hope this helps.

The parts arrived quickly! Partselect is great to work with! Found the new shocks are different; evidently a design change bt Electrolux. The new shocks have free movement before dampening, approx 3/4". Bottom front cover removed, puch in the tab on side of pin then push the pin out. I had difficulty getting the pin to go back in through the new shock but it was ok after I pushed harder. I tried the washer and was very disappointed. Harsh banging when spinning. It was obvious to me that the original shocks had failed as a result of whatever was still wrong with the washer. A search on the internet and I found that the inner tub support structure that is on the back of the inner tub develops cracks and or breaks and then when it spins, lookout! It bangs so violently that I think the washer will beat you out the back door! I chose not to repair the washer due to age and cost of repair. A quick check to see if yours has that problem: look inside the washer and you will see three places on the rear wall of the inner drum( the part that spins). Grab the inside lip of the drum near the front door right in line with each of the three places and pull toward you. You should have no movement. Mine had movement on one out of three, indicating that the support was broken. Good luck.