WT4801CW LG Washer - Instructions

I first tested the motor per the service manual. I checked the resistance between the terminals of the 3 pin connector. It's supposed to be 5-15 ohms. The motor checked out so I replaced the main electrical board. It turns out that wasn't the problem. After a brief web search I found out that the hall sensor (which is attached to the motor stator) was the likely cause of the failure. I replaced that and everything works great now. And now I have a spare main board in case that ever fails. I also want to mention that I took the time to remove the dispenser box (where the water comes in and is directed to the different cleaning products) and cleaned it with a very strong bleach solution. It got rid of the mildew and funky smell. It seems that the fabric softener caused a lot of mildew to form inside the dispenser directly above the fabric softener tray. The bleach took care of that. This is probably something that should be done routinely to keep the mildew from forming.

Removed back of washer with screw driver, Removed outer motor cover with a 17 mm socket (1 bolt), Removed motor stater using 10 mm socket (8 bolts). Left motor plugged in and and tipped to the side exposing the sensor. Unplug and snap off sensor. Reassembled in opposite order. Machine works great. Very easy fix, and perfect fit on part.

I first thought there was a mechanical problem but after checking everything mechanical I discounted that idea ... I researched and found out from others with a similar problem that the Le code display was probably a sensor problem ... I ordered a replacement sensor ... With the new sensor available, I removed the access panel to the back of the machine (phillips head screw driver - 4 screws) ... Remove the exposed motor half (1 bolt - 17mm scocket) ... Loosen the motor stator that has the wired coils (10mm socket - 6 bolts) ... Hold motor unit to the side without disconnecting the wiring harness ... Disconnect the sensor wire connector and remove the old sensor ... Clip the new sensor in place (same position as the old one) and re-connect ... Reverse the assembly procedures ... This fixed the problem and the washing machine works like a new one ... The wife is HAPPY!

Removed the back of the washing machine looked to see where the water was leaking from removed the hose to find a smell crack - ordered a new hose dried up everything with old towels took compressed air and blew off all electrical wires and connectors total time 15 minutes

Disconnected power supply and water supply hoses. Laid machine on its back because this is a top load machine. Removed one bolt to take off stator then 6 bolts to remove rotor. Put it on side without taking off wire assembly. Snapped off rotor position sensor and installed new one. Put all back together and connected power supply and new stainless braided hoses. WORKS PERFECT. Thanks !

Watch this video on youtube:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8ZKgP6hu8Fk very similar

Keep all parts separate and in order in a plastic box with dividers
1. Disconnect washer from wall. (electrical and hot/cold hoses, drain tube)
2. Remove center cap from bottom tub plate
3. Remove small bolt under cap
4. Remove bottom Tub Plate
5. Remover washer
6. Remove larger 38mm nut (I bought the correct deep well socket) Ive seen other video use a pipe wrench)
6a. Remove the large washer under nut
NOTE- I did not remove the tub, total hassle, found it unnecessary, Yes the washer was heavier but nothing that cant be managed.
7. Place a blanket on the floor and lay the washer on its back to access the bottom.
NOTE Everthing is nuts and bolts at this point. 10mm socket worked on all
8. Remove Nut & washer on rotor. Remove rotor-its has a line of magnets and the edges are sharp. Just wiggle it a bit. wear gloves if need be.
9. Remove bolts from Stator, user a small flat blade screw driver to undo 1 or 2 (some) electrical connections. Lay the stator aside. Move the electric connector(s) out of the way.
10. Remove the grounding wire at 6 oclock position
11.Remove the rectangular pack and the 3 oclock position by removing 2 bolts. It has a small arm that reaches out to the clutch arm, slide the piece out to the widest part of hole in clutch arrn an wiggle it loose.
Almost there....
12. Remove all the 10MM headed bolts from the clutsh and drive assemble The inner bolts are a slightly different style, keep the two sets separate.
13. Remove the clutch and drive.

NOTE: if the drive doesnt come out with a slight pull, you have missed a bolt(s)-inspect and remove as need be

14 Wipe clean the pocket in the outer wash tub that accepts the seal on the top of the drive. Lubricate the new drives seal completely with a little dishwasher detergent so it slides smoothly and seals well.

15. Assembly is the reverse:

Last Notes:
*Install all bolts for the clutch and drive hand tight as you get everything lined up.
*Once all bolt are in the clutch and drive are hand tight, tighten the bolts in a cross pattern as you would a wheels lug nuts
*Snug the bolts used to attached the clutch and drive firmly 1/8 to 1/4 turn past snug
*Make sure you clock the stator to the correct position, again hand tighten bolts then final tighten in a cross pattern.
*The nut and washer in the rotor tighten to 1/4 to 1/2 turn past snug, its tight.
*The large 38 MM nut on the top of the drive assembly torque is 88 ft lbs. Have a partner or friend hold the tub while you torque the large nut. If you don't have a torque wrench you can rent one from a number of auto-part chain stores.
*I used a 1/2 Impact gun to remove the 38mm nut, Never use that kind of power to reassemble as it will damage parts.


Good luck, you can do it.

Disconnect elec., hot and cold water supply and drain hose. Lay washer on it's back. Removed nut from center housing. Removed screws from stater. Disconnected wires with flat screw driver at sensor and stater. Installes new sensor. Put everything back together. Washer works great. No LE code.

Disconnect machine from power source. Then, disconnect any tubes from the back side (make sure you close any water valves before doing so). Then, lay the machine on its back to access the bottom of the machine. Then, locate the thermistor and replace it with the new one (the thermistor will have two screws holding it in place, simply remove the screws and replace the thermistor, then screw it back in). After the new part is installed, stand the machine back up and make sure to connect any tubing to its proper place. Done.

We followed the installation video step by step that was found on another website.

Getting the old part out was not too hard, but had a couple challenges. Watched a video from RepairClininc that detailed the process very thoroughly. Definitely use an impact gun to remove the drum nut inside the drum. My drum was stuck on the shaft pretty good. Would not lift off. Removed the rotator, stator and diverter motor on the bottom, and took out all the bolts securing the clutch. Had to use a hammer to tap the shaft out from inside the drum. Then the clutch dropped out the bottom and I was able to remove the drum. Installation went smooth. Just remember the order you took stuff off and the position of the parts. They need to go on the same or the electrical connectors won't reach.

bought a position sensor
top load machine when i tipped the machine over i found
the nut and washer on the floor .replaced the sensor and nut
took about half an hour

Removed the inner tub laid the washer on its side with a blanket under it and Removed the assembly then the shaft assembly.
Installed the new assembly and re assembled the rest of the washer (top and bottom) and plugged it in. Works great. TIP: you will need a big socket set for the tub retaining nut.

Our Samsung HE washer started making a grinding noise and stopping at the end of the rinse/spin cycle. I had replaced the clutch and seal 2 years ago and it sounded like it was going out again, however we were not getting the gunk inside the tub like before (seal) and the machine was throwing the tE error code when it stopped which it did not do last time. According to the manual this meant a thermistor error and the solution was "Call for Service". The machine is 9 years old and way out of warranty so....uh No! I ordered the new thermistor for $15 plus shipping to correct the tE code before looking to replace the clutch again or get a new machine. The new thermistor arrived, leaned the machine on its back, unplug one connector, remove two screws and pull the old one out of it's hole, push the new one in, replace two screws and the connector and GO! Problem fixed! No tE code, no stopping, no grinding noise. As best I can tell, the old thermistor was faulting during the spin cycle and the machine went into emergency stop mode which made the grinding noise. It was not the clutch or bearing at all. Most of the repair time was moving the machine out and disconnecting lines so I could lean it onto its back. Note: If your machine is stopping before draining, it will have water inside the tub which will drain out of the hole where the thermistor goes when you pull the old one out. It has an o-ring to seal it, so just expect a little water to come out and be ready to catch all the water or put the new one in quickly.

Unplug washer , shut off water supply, remove water supply line, remove drain line from pipe, Unscrew 4 Philip head screws and gently bend panel enough to lift and remove. Beware of sharp edges. The hoses on the pump are hard to remove so remove the three # 10 MM bolts from the pump base and then squeeze the hose clamps and move them back away from the pump. Use a pair of channel lock pliers and hold the hose while twisting the pump motor this should loosen the hose enough to remove the hose. Do not remove the plug wires on the pump, unplug at the wire harness in the plastic bag on the side of the machine. your new pump should come with a new wire harness already plugged into the pump. Just swap it out with the old one Be careful not to pry the blue connector apart just press down on the little pin in the center of the connector and it just slides out. Note how the wire harness was routed and held in with the supports.
When reinstalling the three bolts do not over tighten. Reattach the hoses and the compression clamps. Reinstall the back panel make sure the instruction label faces out and the vents are on the top. reconnect the drain line to the pipe and reconnect the supply hoses Make sure Hot and old are correct., Plug machine in and run with the towels you used to mop up the water through a wash cycle and check for leaks.

I first fixed the stator coil by repairing the cut coil spots at 2 location using solder and with a bit of equivalent wires to extend with heat shrink sleeving to extend over the iron core. Next, I assembled the new coupling in the new coupling assembly with a bit grease around cogs. Wached few videos to see orientation since mine was broken assembly and wasn't certain how it sits inside. Once oriented and seated right, I wiggled to sit in properly over the stator cog..I felt the stator cogs with coupling locked to the shaft. After that I secured the main nut and connected the appliance. All worked perfectly after that. Thanks for sending the ordered parts. Now the washing machine is strong and solid in its agitation.