WRT779RFYM10 Whirlpool Refrigerator - Instructions

1st; Remove all shelving
2nd; Phillips screws,= remove bottom cover, and bottom vent
3rd; Sensor is straight up- plug & play (see pic)!
DO NOT MAN-HANDLE.!
4th; Re-install vent & cover 'SLOWLY'.!
Please buy a "Freezer" thermometer. Good freezers work
around (+5* to -10*) even with food.

Removed all food! I used storage boxes insulates with blankets and a bit of dry ice in the boxes to keep the food cold.

Removed bottom bin and shelf

Removed bottom cover and fan shroud, this exposes evaporator coil and the thermostat. I had to defrost the evaporator and thermostat, they were completely encased in ice.

Thermostat is clipped to the evaporator coil, simply pry it off and removed it from the wire harness. Easy! Thermostat has a connector!
Installed new thermostat in the same location as the old one. Connected it to the wire harness and replace the bottom cover.
Turned it on and it seems to be working fine, now three weeks after repair.

Using a screwdriver

Removed door and replaced bushing bracket was ok.

remove inside cover. meit ice collected, remove old part and install new part. about 1 hr.

****Make are you order Capacitor & Starter relay too (we ordered separtely so had to pay shipping twice)**** Super easy just open access panel on back near compressor and remove retention clip with fingers, remove & replace both capacitor & starter, put clip and access panel back on, plug in and allow 8 hours to cool! Works like new again! Hope it goes another 10 years

Pried out old part with screwdriver. Unplugged. When new part came, just plugged it in and pushed the part into place.

use kitchen knife to pry out. replaced switch assemble and pressed back into place. Could not have done this with out help from previous customers. Thanks

I attached the hinge and secured it with screws and socket wrench.

inst said,"50 pct of the time this calls for new capacitor," so we changed the capacitor. Same prob. It also said,"25 pct of the time it's the bi-metal thermostat" So we ordered it. We removed the plastic rear panel from inside the freezer comp. using small nut driver. Here we found much ICE surrounding the defrost unit, three inches thick. We thawed the whole mess. and the freezer has worked fine ever since. I think my habit of getting ice cubes from the inside container rather than from the ice cube dispenser, had kep t the freezer door open too much, interfering with the normal defrost cycle and allowing ice to build up over time so that it finally defeated the system. My new rule, "get ice cubes only from the front."

Eased the putty knife under the edge of the switch housing and pried it off. Pulled two wires off the old terminals and hooked them onto the new one and reinstalled into the refrigerator body.

Was told capacitor was problem 90% of the time.Capacior was not the problem.Bad start relay.

bulbs were not burnt out. received the new switch in a few days. watch the short video, was good to see how it comes out. used a putty knife to release the defective switch, removed wires put them on the new one and posed the new switch back in. Not bad Part cost $11.00 7 dollars shipping so for 17 bucks it works great. nice to see what is inside the refer!

Used the suggested problem list here to narrow down that the repair was most likely the run capacitor. Poped the new one in and I now have better control of my compartment ranges. I have a temperature gauge in each compartment. Check them every opening of the doors.

Removed the access panel on back of unit located the Run Capacitor on the compressor and removed the bad one and put the new one on and pugged refrigerator back in and it started up and works fine now