WRT311SFYT00 Whirlpool Refrigerator - Instructions

empty top shelf in refrigerator, remove glass shelf. Wash and dry. Turn shelf over and line up notches and snap in place. Cost of guide plus 7.99 shipment fee and local ta was $18. Local dealer wanted $24 to order same part. Easy do-it-yourself project.

Like you video

Not so good that was not the problem. Fan is not seized and all the lights work and display is not on but lights up as well. No start once plugged back in after 15 minutes of being unplugged. Nothing same no change.

We looked up the problem online with the model number of the refrigerator. We ordered the part and followed the video installation that was sent with the order and was found online prior to purchasing

Was told capacitor was problem 90% of the time.Capacior was not the problem.Bad start relay.

bulbs were not burnt out. received the new switch in a few days. watch the short video, was good to see how it comes out. used a putty knife to release the defective switch, removed wires put them on the new one and posed the new switch back in. Not bad Part cost $11.00 7 dollars shipping so for 17 bucks it works great. nice to see what is inside the refer!

inst said,"50 pct of the time this calls for new capacitor," so we changed the capacitor. Same prob. It also said,"25 pct of the time it's the bi-metal thermostat" So we ordered it. We removed the plastic rear panel from inside the freezer comp. using small nut driver. Here we found much ICE surrounding the defrost unit, three inches thick. We thawed the whole mess. and the freezer has worked fine ever since. I think my habit of getting ice cubes from the inside container rather than from the ice cube dispenser, had kep t the freezer door open too much, interfering with the normal defrost cycle and allowing ice to build up over time so that it finally defeated the system. My new rule, "get ice cubes only from the front."

Eased the putty knife under the edge of the switch housing and pried it off. Pulled two wires off the old terminals and hooked them onto the new one and reinstalled into the refrigerator body.

I attached the hinge and secured it with screws and socket wrench.

Used the suggested problem list here to narrow down that the repair was most likely the run capacitor. Poped the new one in and I now have better control of my compartment ranges. I have a temperature gauge in each compartment. Check them every opening of the doors.

Removed the access panel on back of unit located the Run Capacitor on the compressor and removed the bad one and put the new one on and pugged refrigerator back in and it started up and works fine now

I pulled the socket out and unplugged the wires. I replaced the light socket by plugging in the wires and snapping the light socket into place. A very simple fix.

I first read the instruction manual then I watched the installation video. My water line to it was 3/8. Went to the local ACE Hardware to purchase a short peace of 1/4 copper tubing and the fittings to connect them together. It makes ice every 55 minutes.

Swapped out evaporator fan motor, solved the problem!

Did just like the video showed took doors off daughter helped take off doors so easy put door on blanket. My daughter 38 went to town putting it on just watch the corners so easy two days after installation the door seals great. You can do this.