WRS26MZRHW1 Westinghouse Refrigerator - Instructions

Unplugged faulty ice maker, removed two screws holding it to the refrigerator and took it out. Reversed the operation with the new ice maker and after a few minutes presto, we have ice.

My freezer would freeze up and not allow cold air to refrigerator side. First I took off bottom face plate, located the timer on left side bottom, removed the two screws and unpluged the timer. Replaced the timer with new one. Second I removed all food from freezer. Took of back of freezer wall with nut driver. Located the thermostat which was very easy to remove. Just one clip holding thermostat. Unplugged the two wires from the old thermostat and plugged in new wires. Thanks to Partselect.com, the parts were an exact match. Very easy to do. Saved my tons of money. Freezer and refer works like new.

It was pretty straight forward. Remove the two screws that hold the unit to the wall of the freezer. In my case, I had to use a different ice maker than what came with the frig. In order to install the replacement unit they sent a wire adaptor so it would attach to the existing wiring. That too was all fine and dandy. The only problem was that the end of the wire adaptor did not fit through the existing hole in the rear of the frig. I used a utility knife to cut through the thin metal lining. That worked just fine. However, I could not cut through the insulation because I could not reach it through the small hole. The excess wire was supposed to be pulled through the hole and out through the back of the unit. So now the excess is between the wall of the freezer and the insulation. The unit is working wonderfully. In fact, it is making more ice than I can use. I am very pleased with the replacement unit. This is the 3rd ice maker that has been in this frig. All the others had a design flaw that had a leak in the rear of the unit. This caused all the ice to form into a big block. The replacement unit has not had this problem so far. Thank you for allowing me to explain my situation so that maybe others may benifit from my experience. Thank you. Jack

removed screws,removed broken parts and installed new parts.

First - I asked a person familiar in ref/freezer repair for assistance. This was the hardest issue - trying to find someone to offer "free" advise. He stated that when this problem occurs it is usually one of two things: 1) The defrost timer (underneath Refrigerator - Attached w/2 screws and plug-n connector) not functioning or 2) The defrost sensor (clipped-on to the coolant line (2-press-on wires) above the main coolant coil in in rear of freezer section behind panel secured w/5 1/4" hex-head screws) not properly sensing need for defrosting. The Tech. also stated that the defrost/heat coil, which surrounds the large coolant coil in the back of the freezer hardly ever goes bad unless it is the glass/clear type coil which often crack. (Mine was the black filament type element like found in an electric oven). I check the element with an ohm meter - 27 ohms of resistance which indicated it was okay). I replaced both defrost timer & defrost sensor at the same time and that fixed the problem. Parts ordered were an exact match to originals (dispite model number changes/upgrades) and everything went very well. NOTE: It is good to have the part numbers off of each original item and know what they are called before placing your order. All fixed for less than $50.00. A service call alone would be more than this. Took about 2 hours to do, due to having to defost the iced-up freezer coil w/a hair blower. Don't use sharp objects to chip away ice, let the blower do the work - Patience and a couple of towels to absorb water is important here. Hope this helps the other do-it-yourselfers.

At first I took our apart, and tried to fix the feed wheel. I did something wrong putting it back together because even though it feed ice, it would not crush ice. Less that a week later the whole thing jammed.
I really did not know what was wrong with the unit, so I was pleased to find an entire assembly for a lot less that an in-home repair would have cost. The part arrived early in it's estimated time table. I simply pulled out the old unit slid in the new, transferred the ice into the new unit and that was it. I was up and running, my wife was thrilled and I was a hero. THANKS!!!

Manufacuturer does not make the tanks any more. Had to by a replacement kit which is basically a 40 ft. plastic tube worth about $10 but they charge you upwards of $55 for it. What a RIP OFF!!! Comes with a self-tapping screw that does not self tap. After 30+ minutes of both of us trying to get the screw to self-tap, we got the drill and started the hole that way. Got coiled hose in place and it is too wide. It is supposed to fit behind the fruits & vegetables drawer. But now drawer will not close all the way. Hose was bound too bulkily. this website was the cheapest place I could find the part. Paid about $63 including S&H. All the places I went to locally wanted to charge me any where from $105 to $127 -- not including taxes.

First I removed ice maker and tested the micro switches and motor individually. Then checked the resistance of the heater element, and the thermostat. All components tested okay and worked individually. However when installed in the freezer the motor would not turn. and if you manually turned the gear in front, which should cycle everything,nothing would happen. Finally, I found one part that I had not checked, the thermal cut-off, and upon removing it, one wire fell off the small square piece. This wire was corroded. I replaced the unit in about 10 minuites and ice maker is working perfectly again.

I'm too young to die so I unpluged the refriderator first. The cold control is mounted in a plastic housing at the top of the freezer compartment that is held in place by two screws on the back side. I removed them with a nutdriver. Pull off the knob and use a screwdriver to release the control from it's bracket and pull off the 3 wires noteing where they go. Slide the sensing element out and remove the plastic sleeve. Stragihten the sensing element on the new control and slide on the plastic sleve. Slide the sensing element in place, push the wires onto the terminals and snap the control into the bracket. Re-install the two screws and the control knob. Plug it in and you're done. It took longer to write this than to replace the control.

My freezer was frozen but my refrigerated side was not cooling, the temp was actually around 60-degrees. After inspecting i noticed no air was flowing through the vent from freezer side to fridge side. I removed everything from freezer and took the back wall panel off inside freezer section and immedietely noticed alot of ice on coils etc. After researching i found the defrost timer was not working and thus allowing frost and ice to build up on coils and block air flow. My defrost timer was located on the front bottom left behind kick panel, using a phillips screwdriver i removed 2 screws and then disconnected wire harness to the defrost timer. Then i inserted new defrost timer and connected wire harness and then put the 2 screws back in. My fridge is now working great and the ice build-up is gone and i am getting good air flow .. temps on fridge side are now between 32-34degrees. This was an easy project and saved me alot of money doing myself

The repair for this was very simple, although it was a tight squeeze. The model I replaced the ice maker on was a side by side. First I removed the ice bucket so I could have more room to work with. Then I unscrewed 2 screws on the left side wall holding the ice maker in place. These screws had a 1/4" nut top on them so I used my socket driver for this. Then a quick disconnect of the wiring harness. Very Simple. I did the reverse to install the new unit. Total time was around 5 minutes or so. I now have ice again.

I slid the drawer fronts off by pulling out slightly on the bottoms and pulling up. The drawer fronts come right off. Then slide them onto the new drawers that matched perfectly. It took longer to empty the broken drawers than it did to replace them.

First I pulled the ice tray out so I could see the solenoid housing/ice tray support(1 unit). Below the ice tray there are 2 screws that hold the solenoid housing/ice tray support. After removing those the assembly lifts up so you can see the wiring harness to disconnect. I pulled it out and removed the 2 screws to open it up. There is 2 screws holding the solenoid in place and one ground wire. This was an easy fix and I know I saved a lot of money.

Unplugged refrig and shut off water supply. Removed cardboard backing on back of refrig. Then removed water lines and power plug from old water valve. Removed screws holding water valve on refrig chassis. Attached water lines and power plug to new water valve. Then repeated the above steps in reverse order. Took a max of 30 mins to install the water valve and worked properly when plugged in refrig and turned water supply on.

Reviewed the video on your website and followed the directions to the letter. Great video