WRS26MF5AQ3 Westinghouse Refrigerator - Instructions

swap filter

In my specific appliance the water valve is located in the bottom right hand corner looking at it from the back. To get to it I remove the thin layer of cardboard the covers the back of the fridge. I then proceeded to disconnect the 1/4" copper tubing which is the water feed coming out of the wall. Then I removed the screws that hold the valve assembly in place. I took the water valve out and removed the electrical connections as well as the plastic tubing which feed the water dispenser and the ice maker. To install the new water valve it was just a matter of reversing steps.

The new bins and I installed them in the door. Nice to have door space again.

Easy slide it back in place

Slip the old one off and replace the new one with just snapping it in place!

Used pliers to remove the residual broken stud that was still attached to the wall of the refrigerator, and then just pushed the new part in place. The longest time was spent in removing the food and crisper drawers.

Even though my wife said that our icemaker broke, there was actually nothing wrong with it. It was the valve that let water flow in during the 'harvest' cycle.
A real easy way to test the icemaker without voltage and current measurements, is to fill the tray by hand with a little cup of water; wait till the water freezes and see if the maker dumped the ice into the bin.

Unplugged the refrigerator. Removed the 4 hex head screws on the lower back panel at the back of the freezer. Used a blow dryer to defrost the pipes and area surrounding the thermostat. Unplug the connection from the back of the freezer, unplug the 2 wires, one that goes to the heater, one that comes from power. Unclip the thermostat from the pipe and note which pipe you unclipped it from. Cut the wires on the old thermostat midway between the plugs and the sensor. Using the supplied butt connectors, strip the wire ends on color matched wires (should be a dark blue or black) and crimp them together. Repeat with the other wire. Discard the white shrink wrapping. I wasn't able to get it small enough with a hair dryer or lighter. Plug the thermostat back into it's respective plugs. Clip the thermostat back onto the pipe you removed it from. Replace the back panel with the four screws. Ensure the bottom of the panel is set inside of the drip tray. Replace any shelving you removed. Plug the refrigerator back into the wall. Your done!

Unplugged faulty ice maker, removed two screws holding it to the refrigerator and took it out. Reversed the operation with the new ice maker and after a few minutes presto, we have ice.

It was pretty straight forward. Remove the two screws that hold the unit to the wall of the freezer. In my case, I had to use a different ice maker than what came with the frig. In order to install the replacement unit they sent a wire adaptor so it would attach to the existing wiring. That too was all fine and dandy. The only problem was that the end of the wire adaptor did not fit through the existing hole in the rear of the frig. I used a utility knife to cut through the thin metal lining. That worked just fine. However, I could not cut through the insulation because I could not reach it through the small hole. The excess wire was supposed to be pulled through the hole and out through the back of the unit. So now the excess is between the wall of the freezer and the insulation. The unit is working wonderfully. In fact, it is making more ice than I can use. I am very pleased with the replacement unit. This is the 3rd ice maker that has been in this frig. All the others had a design flaw that had a leak in the rear of the unit. This caused all the ice to form into a big block. The replacement unit has not had this problem so far. Thank you for allowing me to explain my situation so that maybe others may benifit from my experience. Thank you. Jack

I removed the fan housing in the freezer section by removing all the screws. (7) There are two screws behind the vents. I did not have an ice maker to contend with so this was very easy. There is only two wires to disconnect....the ground wire and the electricity supply. Then you remove the unit from the back of the housing cover by removing two screws. Then the motor is removed from it's housing by removing 2 more screws. 1...2...3 and you're ready to reverse the procedure. I am not mechanically inclined and this was easy. Saved myself perhaps $120.00. Repair folks wanted mininum of $60.00 just to come out. Part and shipping cost me 33 bucks.OH, DON'T FORGET TO UNPLUG THE FRIDGE. :>)

First I replaced the Defrost Thermostat on the coil and this did not fix the problem. So I ordered this new ADC (Adaptive Defrost Control)board.
It is not identical to the first ADC board and at least one feature the old ADC did was deleted from the function of the Fridge. Not sure why?
Because the board were different a new wiring harness was provided.
Step 1. Unplug the unit and remove the water filter.
Step 2. Remove the covers off of the unit on the top of the fridge using the 1/4" nut driver and a 1/4" deep well socket with extension for the deeper inset fasteners. This exposes the wiring harness and the ADC board as well as the temperature controls.
step 3. Remove the screws for the ADC on the cover and remove the wiring harness from it. No need to note the wire's positions as the new ADC uses a different connector.
step 4. As you remove each connection of the wire harness from the unit replace that connection with then new harness connector to eliminate any confusion. Do each one. One by one until the old harness is completely loose and the new harness is completely installed.
step 5. Install new ADC which in my case was now enclosed in an orange case. Unlike the one I removed that was and open pcb.
Step 6. Replace covers using the 1/4" nut driver and 1/4" wrench.
Step 7. Replace filter and plug in unit.

Apparently there have been 4 versions of this ADC board through the years. My fridge was built in 2003 not long before I bought it.

First I disconnected the power cord, then removed the screws that held the bracket that holds the base for the water-filer in place. I then disconnected the water lines(intake and outflow). Next I removed the screws that held the water-filter's base in place. I then disconnected the release lock mechanism for the filter and finally removed the water-filter base. I did the reverse to install the new water-filter base. Previously I had tested the intake water line and noticed the water was flowing with enough pressure upto the water-filter's base but no water was exiting thru the outflow line, which leads to the Ice-Maker and Dispenser. I had tried changing the filter but that didn't solve the problem it was then I had realized that the Base was the problem. The actual problem was the spring-loaded valves for both the intake and outflow lines, which had a plastic prong that protrudes out of the base that is triggered by the filter when installed. The two prongs were worn-down so the filter wasn't activating the spring-loaded release valve to let the water thru. As for the light, I just unscrewed it.

The only difficult aspect of the job was getting the old shelf support stud removed from the refrigerator wall - the support was broken off too short to allow vise grips to hold it. I had to use two screwdrivers to get under and then pop out the stud to the point I could get the pliers to hold. Everything eles pretty much just "fell together" very easily.

removed screws,removed broken parts and installed new parts.