WM2042CW LG Washer - Instructions

Removed the top, the front, got to the pump, removed it and replace it with the new one.

Found the part of Part Select by describing the problem. used a Utube video and step by step we were able to take apart, replace and put back everything with just a screw driver - I saved so much money!

unplug washer and disconnect inlet and outlet hoses. drain water from washer (about 2 gallons) by removing lint screen from front of washer. lay washer on side (I used a blanket to avoid damaging the paint) remove all the phillips head screws in the plastic bottom and the metal feet of the washer. Gently pull the bottom of the washer off. There are 3 shock absorber looking things that pull apart and are greasy. Try not to mess with them much. Just pull gently, and they slide apart. cut the zip ties holding the wires to the washer bottom piece. remove the screw in the lint screen area and gently pull the recessed plastic thing out the front of the washer. remove the screws holding the pump assembly on the front of the washer. Remove the three screws holding the pump assembly on the outlet pipe manifold. Installation is the reverse of removal, take care to put the shock absorber looking things back in gently and together at the same time when reinstalling the plastic bottom of the washer.

1. Remove Power from washing machine. Using an ajustable wrench,remove both the cold water and hot water hoses/lines from back of washing machine. 2. Unscrew the back plate, using the screwdriver (Phillips) and store back plate and screws for re-installation. 3. Using a small screwdriver (Phillips), remove the retaining plate fom the cold and hot water inlet valves and store plate and screws for re-installation. 4. Using the pliers, press the retaining clamp and slide it through the hose; remove the hot water valve assembly; drain water from the hose (be careful: hot water can scald and burn). Mark the electrical connection and the hot water hose. 5. Using the pliers again, press the retaining clamps and slide them through the hoses/lines;remove the cold water valve assembly and the cold water hoses/lines; drain water from hoses/lines. Mark the electrical connections and the cold water hoses/lines. 6. Remove new inlet valves from boxes and re-install in accordance with marking on hoses/lines and electrical connections. Using the pliers, move clamps over all the hoses/lines to tighten ends on inlet valves. 7. Replace retaining brackets on cold and hot water inlet valves and re-insert screws. 8. Replace the back plate and screws. 9. Power the washing machine by reconnecting the power cord into the electrical outlet. 10. Test the repairs by placing the washing machine in the "Rinse and Spin" cycle and check for leaks. If no leaks are detected, repair is complete.

Removed the old bellows (2 squeeze hose clamps and one screw adjustable hose clamp) slid on the new one and it was done!

Conclusion was that either the control panel or the noise filter (an electrical fuse apparatus)was bad. Disconnected the water line, turned off power, and pulled unit out from cabinets. Determined that voltage was going into the noise filter (white harness) but almost no voltage coming out (red harness). Ordered noise filter. Hardest part was removing old noise filter from dishwasher frame without removing the whole unit from cabinet and turning upside down.One screw holds the part in the frame. With power off, I used a very small ratchet with phillips screw driver. Pried unit out with screw driver on side to the panel front. It has a retaining tab there.Installation was the reverse. Instead of putting screw back the way it was originally installed, I screwed it in from the outside of the frame. Much easier and just as solid. Tested unit with power on. Hooked up water line. Works great. Note: LG dishwahers have a high repair rate and that this part has a high failure rate. This LG unit was two years old. Never had to fix my 15 year old Sears dishwasher. It still works to this day. (I gave it to my daughter.)

Disconnected power. Removed washer top; only 2 screws in back. Disconnected two wire connectors on Filter Assembly Circuit. Removed assembly; 1 screw. Installed new assembly, reconnected wires, and replaced washer top.

My washer would try to spin and remove the water according to the time allowed. Consequently my washer would take longer than the time allowed to drain therefore water would send a code error then the machine would stop working. So I remove the hose from the pump and found my son's little small sock blocking the drain. I removed the sock and reinstalled all hoses. Everything is fine now. No need for a replacement item. Just a little servicing.

Did the repair entirely from the back.- 4 screws back cover comes off. Once you see the Bellows it is obvious what needs to come off and there are other videos on the net showing this. The main things I did differently were 1) Leaned the washer forward and placed 3 2x4 blocks of wood under each back leg. This allowed me to reach under the washer with one hand, and through the back with the other. You need both hands in there ! 2) Uninstalling is easy with just pliers. But on the way back in, I used a pair of Locking Pliers to keep the circular clamp squeezed as much as possible. That seemed the only way to get the bellows back in. Another option would be to switch to screw on Pipe clamps instead of the spring clamps.

Took off the old one and put the other one on. The only difficulty was that my husband has big hands and had a hard time getting to one end.

Basic skill

Removed lid (top of washer), then ran a cycle in normal to identify the failed component, then noticed the water inlet valve assembly for the hot water was leaking, used my pc and went to website Part Select and found to failed part on the parts break down item, then ordered the part, the part "Valve Assembly Inlet" for the hot water arrived 2-days later, replaced valve in less than 5-minutes, disconnected push on electrical connector, unscrewed the valve assembly inlet and installed the new valve assembly inlet, very easy

Found on line OE meant washer not pumping out water with the suggestion to clean the filter and inspect the pump and lines for blockage. No problems there. You must be careful to empty the water manually before removing the filter. My wet vac helped but I still made a mess. I found a mechanic to look at the washer. He said it is common for the pump on these washers to go bad, especially if the washer has sat out of service. They wanted $300 to replace the pump. I found the part on this website for $53 and replaced it myself. The only hard part was emptying the water without making a mess and leaning the washer up and back far enough safely to remove the pump, then working on my back under the machine.

greate very easy and the parts fit awsome the shiping was fast and easy very satified

After checking for blockage on the drain hose and checking on any blockage on the bottom left corner filter and not finding anything i decided to open the machine. Everything suggested a broken drain pump
ITEM
PS3579318 Drain Pump and Motor Assembly which is located on the bottom left corner also and it attaches to the bottom left corner filter. And voila! The machine did not work! Now started throwing a FE code and it would not fill up. Well, the new pump was stuck! All i had to do was to stick my fingers in the bottom left corner filter orifice and move the fan like devices that make the new drain pump work, that did it! Be careful not to do it while the machine is pluged in, those plastic blades may hurt your fingers. To reach the drain pump you have to take the top, control board and front (door and gasket) of the machine off, about one hour labor.