Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Washing maching wouldn't drain
Removed the top of the washer by removing the 4 back screws and 2 small brackets. Then I removed the front panel, this was actually the hardest part, 2 screws and 8 tabs that you pop out carefully from the top of the panel. I only disconnected the power button and was able to rest the panel on top of the washer. The rest of the washer came apart quickly just moving down the front of the washer and removing the door, latch, tub gasket, drain cover. Removing the pump was just a mater of disconnecting the drain hoses, and one clip under the drain assembly. 3 screws attach the drain to assembly to the pump and only 2 wires that are clearly marked. Reassembly is just going back through in reverse order of disassenbly. The best thing about this is that it all comes apart with a standard phillips screwdriver.
noisy operation, sometimes did not drain, gave OE code
Thank you for the very helpful YouTube video. After watching the video, I was able to diagnose the problem, buy the part from your website, and complete the repair. This is my personal machine - I am not a professional repairman.
I received the locking device. I received an email from parts select with a repair video link. I watch the video and repeated the steps. Very easy and educational. Thank you for simplifying something I have limited experience doing.
There are two pumps in this system. I turned the washer on its side and took off bottom plate. There are several screws holding this on. I then took the entire pump assembly off. There are 3 screws holding each pump on the brown plastic body. Each pump has a positive and negative lead. I switched out the pump and reassembled. The hardest part is getting the 3 "shock absorbers in place with the rubber sleeves. I think the book suggest getting to the pump from the front side but I went through the bottom. Worked good. I did wonder however if the other pump was working. Do you need two pump working to get flow? By replacing one pump I went from no flow to good flow. Cost me $75.00
I shut the water off, unplugged the machine, and had to scoop the water out of the drum. When I opened the drain filter, about another half gallon of water came out. There are two screws that hold on each clip that secures the top. They are hard to see if you have a cramped laundry room and can't see behind the machine. The top slides back about 1-2 inches and lifts up, it can be tough to get it started. The rest of the machine came apart easily, just go slow and look for more screws if it does not come apart. I pried on the band that secures door near the spring to keep from distorting it. The website video was pretty good. The pump assembly has to come out the machine to replace it, the use a 10MM socket. Be careful not to over tighten when you reinstall. They are threading back into plastic. A long set of needle nose pliers works well for the clamps on the 3 hoses. Be sure to get all wiring back into it holders or vibration could cause grounding or shorting issues. I took some time to clear the small drain that is in the door seal. It was clogged with debris. The band was the most difficult thing to put back on. Start at the top. I used a flat screwdriver to help, but be careful not to poke a hole in the seal.
Wife wanted to spend $800 on a new washer." You don't know what your doing" she said. Parts Select not only showed me how to take it apart, but easy instructions to put back together and a "how bout them apples" to the wife!!!
I followed the steps outlined on (several) web sites detailing the replacement process. Just Google " LG front load washer won't drain". A couple of small quirks cropped up that required some adaptations such as: I had to purchase an automotive hose clamp to reinstall the main tub drain hose to the pump manifold. I couldn't get the oem clamp back on. It kept slipping out to the jaws of my pliers and I don't own a pair of those clamp pliers that make the job easy. Also, the hex head/phillips screws used to attach the front panel to the frame were very tightly installed AND they had their heads rounded off! I didn't have the hand strength to make the phillips screwdriver loosen them so I used a pair of vise grips to carefully start the process and used the phillips to finish. Finally, the wire loop used to retain the big gasket that seals the front had door is tricky to reinstall. It took two people to get it right. All in all , the videos make the job pretty routine.
Washing machine not draining / stopping after wash cycle
I first checked to make sure that there was not a clogged pipe. After making sure that was not the issue, I replaced the drain pump. It was VERY easy following this youtube video, step by step. The hardest part was the getting the ring (with a spring on it) back around the part by the door. I had someone help me stretch it, and hold it so that I could feed it back on. A tool to stretch the spring would have been helpful.
I watched the video on repairing an LG front load washer. Even though mine is a washer/dryer all-in-one unit to repair was pretty much the same. the only real change with my unit is there are two screws in the area of the bottom filter/drain hose that needs to be removed to be able to take the bottom panel off. This will reveal two more screws to take the front door panel off. To avoid a wet mess, take a wet/dry vac and suck as much water out of the drain hose as you can and have to available to catch any left over water that spills when the hoses are removed. Another thing that can be very useful is to use a piece of cardboard. When you remove the various screws, push them into the cardboard and label each set for reassembly.
PartSelect's instruction video on replacing this drain pump makes this repair doable even for a first timer like me. In addition to following the video instructions, I found that using plastic bicycle tire levers to reinstall the band clamp around the bellows was easier than using a screwdriver and less likely to scratch or damage the area. Beginners might want to take photos when disassembling the washer for reference if needed during reassembly. My washer's innards weren't exactly like the one in the instruction video, and the photos gave me a way to double check as I put it back together.
the bearings on the tub were noisey when it was spinning fast speed.
disassembled the top and front installed the shipping bolts in the tub back housing, removed the rear bolt on the stator and removed the shell the magnets have some strong pull, had to split the plastic inner tub in half, removed the 2 lower front shocks and then removed the inner drum,, both bearings and the seal were bad, drove out inner bearing and seal with bearing driver about 2 ft. long and then drove out the rear bearing, cleaned bore and installed new bearings and seal, the spider on the back of the inner drum was damaged from rust damage in the seal area, replaced with new part and reassembled the hardest thing was the 2 side springs, broke one of the plastic noise brackets will order another, got the rest of the washer back together , will install the top after replacing spring noise bracket., block of wood and car spring pliers for rear brakes would probably be easier for the spring install. .Took about 6 hours to disassemble and install new parts. The repair manual was ok for top and front disassembly but no further info on removing the other parts. Used common sense for the rest, used to repair garbage trucks.
Unplug the washer! Turn off the HOT water valve. Remove the hot water hose at the connection on the back of the washer. Remove the two Phillips head screws holding the top of the washer. Slide the lid toward the rear until you feel it disengage, then lift it off, setting it aside. Unplug the electrical connector on top of the hot water valve (just pulls off).using pliers compress the hose clamp, slide it away from the hot water valve and pull the hose off the valve fitting(it will have some water remaining so lift it up and secure it to the brace above the hoses). Remove the two phillips head screws that hold the valve in place. Pull the valve toward the front of the washer to remove it and compare it to the new valve. To install the new valve, reverse all steps insuring tight water hose clamp and electrical connection. Install hot water hose, plug it in and turn on water. Test run and check for leaks. Unplug it and reinstall top.