Models > WM0642HW

WM0642HW ((ABWEEUS)) LG Washer - Overview

Sections of the WM0642HW

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Washing Machine Drain Pump – Part Number: 4681EA2001T
Washing Machine Drain Pump
★★★★★
★★★★★
(261)
PartSelect #: PS3579318
Manufacturer #: 4681EA2001T
The drain pump and motor assembly may also be known as the washer drain pump and is a part for your washer. The drain pump helps expel water from the washing machine. The drain pump is activated after...
$74.11
  In Stock
Water Inlet Valve - Hot – Part Number: 5220FR2006H
Water Inlet Valve - Hot
★★★★★
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(82)
PartSelect #: PS3527427
Manufacturer #: 5220FR2006H
The hot water inlet valve on your washing machine controls the water flow into the washer. This inlet valve has a standard hose fitting inlet and one water outlet. The water inlet valve opens to allow...
$26.80
  In Stock
Rear Tub Gasket – Part Number: 4036ER2004A
Rear Tub Gasket
★★★★★
★★★★★
(15)
PartSelect #: PS3522855
Manufacturer #: 4036ER2004A
If you notice your washing machine is leaking water from the top of the transmission, it might be due to the gasket being damaged or worn down. When replacing your gasket, consider replacing your tub ...
$31.60
  In Stock
Tub-to-Pump Drain Hose – Part Number: 4738ER1002A
Tub-to-Pump Drain Hose
★★★★★
★★★★★
(16)
PartSelect #: PS3523345
Manufacturer #: 4738ER1002A
This is a tub-to-pump drain hose for a front load washer. The hose features flexible bellows which allow it to expand and contract when necessary. It carries the water from the tub of the washer to th...
$38.18
  In Stock
Door Lock Assembly – Part Number: EBF49827801
Door Lock Assembly
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(26)
PartSelect #: PS3533609
Manufacturer #: EBF49827801
The door lock assembly is a part for your washing machine and tells the washer that the door is closed and locked into place. If the switch has shorted out and not locking, it is no longer delivering ...
$85.65
  In Stock
Gasket – Part Number: 4036ER4001B
Gasket
★★★★★
★★★★★
(6)
PartSelect #: PS3522859
Manufacturer #: 4036ER4001B
This is a seal for a washer tub. It creates a seal between the front and rear halves of the washer tub to prevent the appliance from leaking. If you notice leakage between the two sections of the tub,...
$31.60
  In Stock
SENSOR ASSEMBLY – Part Number: 6501KW2002B
SENSOR ASSEMBLY
★★★★★
★★★★★
(20)
PartSelect #: PS16556422
Manufacturer #: 6501KW2002B
This is a replacement sensor assembly for your washer. It may also be known as a motor rotor position sensor. The sensor assembly monitors the direction and speed of the spinning rotor and communicate...
$38.18
  In Stock
BEARING,BALL – Part Number: 4280EN4001C
BEARING,BALL
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★★★★★
(4)
PartSelect #: PS7785069
Manufacturer #: 4280EN4001C
The tub bearing supports the spin basket shaft at the back of the washing tub. If your washing machine will not spin, is leaking water, or if there is a loud screeching noise during the wash cycle, th...
$63.71
  In Stock
Washer Tub Bearing, Rear – Part Number: MAP61913707
Washer Tub Bearing, Rear
PartSelect #: PS11711138
Manufacturer #: MAP61913707
This tub bearing is for washers. Tub bearing supports the spin basket shaft at the tub. Unplug the washer and shut off the water supply before installing this part. Wear work gloves to protect your hands.
$37.33
  In Stock
MOTOR ASSEMBLY,AC,PUMP – Part Number: EAU61383518
MOTOR ASSEMBLY,AC,PUMP
★★★★★
★★★★★
(2)
PartSelect #: PS16223509
Manufacturer #: EAU61383518
On a washer, this part is used for circulating the water. On a dishwasher, it is used for draining the water during operation. If you notice your appliance is not draining properly, the circulation pu...
$85.35
  In Stock
Pump Filter – Part Number: 383EER2001A
Pump Filter
★★★★★
★★★★★
(10)
PartSelect #: PS3522306
Manufacturer #: 383EER2001A
This replacement pump filter, also known as a filter assembly, is a genuine OEM part for your washer or washer/dryer combo. Before beginning this repair, turn off the power and water supply to your wa...
$26.76
  In Stock
Clamp Assembly – Part Number: 2W20017E
Clamp Assembly
★★★★★
★★★★★
(3)
PartSelect #: PS3517812
Manufacturer #: 2W20017E
The door boot seal clamp, also referred to as an outer door gasket clamp, holds the door boot in place in a front-loading washer. If your washer is leaking from the door and there are no signs of dama...
$17.54
  In Stock

Questions And Answers for WM0642HW

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Common Symptoms of the WM0642HW

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Will not drain
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Leaking
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Will Not Start
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Lid or door won’t close
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Will not agitate
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Draining Issues
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Not draining
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Engine runs but does not pump water
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Burning smell
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No hot or cold water
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Locking Issues
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Noisy and Marks Left on Clothes
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Water Filling Issues
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Spinning Issues
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Noisy
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Spins slowly
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Washing maching wouldn't drain
Removed the top of the washer by removing the 4 back screws and 2 small brackets. Then I removed the front panel, this was actually the hardest part, 2 screws and 8 tabs that you pop out carefully from the top of the panel. I only disconnected the power button and was able to rest the panel on top of the washer. The rest of the washer came apart quickly just moving down the front of the washer and removing the door, latch, tub gasket, drain cover. Removing the pump was just a mater of disconnecting the drain hoses, and one clip under the drain assembly. 3 screws attach the drain to assembly to the pump and only 2 wires that are clearly marked. Reassembly is just going back through in reverse order of disassenbly. The best thing about this is that it all comes apart with a standard phillips screwdriver.
Parts Used:
Washing Machine Drain Pump
  • Jorge from Apple Valley, CA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
556 of 708 people found this instruction helpful.
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LE Error Message and won't spin drum properly
I first tested the motor per the service manual. I checked the resistance between the terminals of the 3 pin connector. It's supposed to be 5-15 ohms. The motor checked out so I replaced the main electrical board. It turns out that wasn't the problem. After a brief web search I found out that the hall sensor (which is attached to the motor stator) was the likely cause of the failure. I replaced that and everything works great now. And now I have a spare main board in case that ever fails. I also want to mention that I took the time to remove the dispenser box (where the water comes in and is directed to the different cleaning products) and cleaned it with a very strong bleach solution. It got rid of the mildew and funky smell. It seems that the fabric softener caused a lot of mildew to form inside the dispenser directly above the fabric softener tray. The bleach took care of that. This is probably something that should be done routinely to keep the mildew from forming.
Parts Used:
SENSOR ASSEMBLY
  • Mark from Harrisburg, PA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers, Socket set
235 of 307 people found this instruction helpful.
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Worn bearings
To replace the bearings a complete disassembly of the washer was required. After pulling the tube assembly from the cabinet and separating the tube enclosure halves and removing the rotor and stator, since the washer uses direct drive, a gear puller was required to push the drive shaft through the old bearings since they didn’t separate easily as seen in several YouTube videos. After removing the tube assembly it is recommended that you also separate from the spider, which contains the drive shaft, from the tube itself since a significant amount of sediment had caked inside the indentations on the inside of the spider. Since the front bearing, part number 4280FR4048D, was no longer available I used an NTN double sealed bearing, part number 6306LLUC3/L627. The only other tricky aspect of the repair was pushing the drive shaft through the new bearings since pushing it by hand did not produce enough force to get it through to expose enough of the shaft on the other side to be able to reconnect the rotor. The solution was to pull the shaft through rather than pushing it. To do this I placed a 1 3/4 inch drive socket over the outer ring of the rear bearing, and then I used a 3 inch 10mm x 1.50 mm bolt through the drive socket with enough large washers to use as spacers between the bolt head and the drive socket. I then threaded about a half inch of the bolt into the center of the drive shaft by hand to remove any gap between the bolt head and the washers. As I turned the bolt clockwise with a 17mm drive socket wrench the bolt pulled the drive shaft through the bearings with ease. I did follow the manufacturer’s recommendation to replace the seal between the two tube enclosure halves and the three dampers with new ones since they do eliminate much of the vibration during the spin cycle. I also replace the top bellows since I noticed that a large hole had been formed on it by rubbing against the inlet hoses which are situated directly above. The repair took a week only because I had to wait for parts.
Parts Used:
Gasket Shock Absorber Assembly
  • Anthony from Crystal Lake, IL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    More than 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
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