WLW3500BCL Hotpoint Washer - Instructions

Removed the back of the machine and then flipped the machine on the side and loosened the motor to get the old belt off. A piece came out so we had to check the schematics online to figure out where it went. We believe it was the out-of-balance cut off switch. So to fix that we unplugged the motor assembly and took it out. I also had to fish the spring out of the vacuum, no small task. The worst part was that the belt was so deteriorated that it was super greasy and the carpet ended up a mess. We replaced the motor and belt and now it actually gets the water out of the clothes. Simply Green cleaner was used for the rug and after some strong elbow grease it was cleaned. If not for the mess and the other part and the vacuum snafu, I would have labeled this as easy.

This was my daughter's washing machine. I looked at the back of the machine to see if there was an opening to get to the parts. Since the back is all closed up. I knew the front had to come off. I pride up, and I pride out, and finally the front popped off. After taking the front cover off the washer. I could see the belt was all chewed up. We ordered a new belt from partselect and got it a day early. I tried to pry the belt on without loosening up anything. I couldn't get it. So I loosened the four bolts on the motor mount and slid the motor backwards towards the other pulley. I put the belt on both pulleys and pried the motor forward to tightened the belt up. Then tightened all four bolts. Put the front guard back on and tried the washer to see if we had any other problems.

Repair was relativly simple. I read previous customer direction submissions. I found that laying the front of the washing macine down removing the back panel gave easy access to the water pump. Remove all 4 hoses first then with a 11/32nd socket remove the top 3 screws that are holding up the pump. At the bottom of the pump unscrew the clamp until the pump will slide out of the rubber stabelizer.(Leave stabelizer attached to the motor) Remove the pump and in reverse order replace with new pump leaving the back cover off of the machine. Set the washing machine upright and check for leeks. After checking for leeks attach the back panel onto the washing machine.

Laid washer face down, unscrewed the 3 screws holding part to brackets. Removed the hose connections to the pump part. loosened the clamp around the base of the pump and pulled the part out. inserted new pump, tightened the clamp, reconnected the hoses, and bolted the part to the brackets. First time through, one of the hoses was not tight enough, so we put a new clamp on it and it worked fine.

Took agitator out of machine knocked old coupling out and inserted new one into agitator/washing machine. Part arrived promptl and correctly. Thank you. JD

Viewed video on installation of new belt. A little awkward to get to the rear bolts, but used a wrench with success. Now washer spins correctly. Thank you.

Took the back cover off 6 screws, took the inlet valve off the mounting plate 2 screws, the vater valve off the mounting plate 2 screws, and disconnected the inlet valve clamp from the inlet hose to the washer. In reassembling reversed the process. Best part; G.E. was going to charge me $59.00 for the valve, and I got it for $16.10 shipped in one day.

This repair was a no brainer repair. The factory replacement knob that I bought from this site comes with a new "D"-Ring. Some other aftermarket parts houses sell the knob and the "D"-Ring as seperate parts. The knob from this site already has the "D"-Ring ring installed in the knob. My "D"-ring was broken and I simply removed it with my fingers. All I had to do was properly align the new know knob with the timer shaft and press it into place. If your "D"-ring is not broken and not still inside the old knob, you will need to pull it off the shaft with a pair of pliers before pressing the new knob onto the timer shaft. Dr. "B" The Hot Rod Doc

I disconnected two wires on back of inlet valve,then I removed the plastic hose connected to left side of valve. Removed old valve and replaced it with the new one.Attached hot/cold hoses and turned on washing machine to check for leaks.

repair was quick and part came quickly. I was very satisfied.

I removed 2 screws on the top control panel to tilt the panel back. Then "popped" the hinges. I then removed 2 screws on the rear panel, to "pick up" the panel out of its locking position. Then the rear panel was loose. I removed the 2 srews holding the water inlet valve to the panel, removed the hose and placed the new water inlet valve in position. Assembled everything back to gether. After a $16.00 part was replaced, the washing machine worked like a brand new one with very high water flow. It was a very simple task to do on your own.

My appliance repair man replaced the inlet hoses into the washing machine and in doing so damaged the threads on the hot water inlet which resulted in a seriuous leak. I removed the 4 screws that held the damaged water inet valve (#PS270305)in place (inlet valcve and solenoid), removed the 4 wires to the solenid (noting the order in which they wree attached) and simply reattached the electrical wiring and screwed the inlet valve in place with the 4 screws that I had taken off to remove the old part.

I changed the Water Inlet Valve in less than 15 minutes. The valve fit exactly, and the water hoses fit right on. I turned on the water and the washer filled without hesitation. The cost was 15.00, this beat the 62.00 price I was given by GE for the part alone.

This is the second time I have replaced this part. This time, I knew exactly what to do...the first time took longer. We have hard water here and also sediment in the water. Over time, the valve will not shut off the water.

Shutting off the water and unplugging the machine, and opening the back of the washer (every screw was the same size, thankfully. I didn't have to change socket sized) First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and then I unscrewed the hose clamp and I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires one at a time. I reconnected each one as I disconnected it from the old one. That way I knew I had it attached to the correct post. Reconnected the hose and reclamped it. Then I reattached the unit back into the washer and rescrewed everything back in place. The washers, I put in the end of the hoses before reattaching to the faucets. Attached the hoses to the machine and plugged it in the outlet.
It has been working ever since! (of course, I knew it would!) This machine is 25 years old and still going strong!

Unfortunately, this washer doesn't have a front panel: to get to the belt, removed the back panel. Unfortunately, you can't get to the belt from there either, unless you turn the washing machine upside down. Since the top of the washer is not level (control panel sticks up), the washer needs to be tipped upside down onto something the washer lid rests on, but keeps the control panel off the ground. We used...a sled. Unfortunately, since it didn't drain the last time used, even though we bailed the tub, there was still a fair amount of water that drained out once upside down. This is a heavy washer - took 3 of us tipping it over carefully onto the sled. We unbolted the motor, put in new belt, but needed to put a piece of the shifter arm assembly in place, which came loose. Took 2 sets of hands to accomplish all this. Works now - 2 small loads of laundry done successfully.