WFW94HEXL2 Whirlpool Washer - Instructions

Opened the front panel with 3 crews T-25 or socket wrench. Panel comes off right away.

Look for the leak. Determined it was the hose. Use power pliers to remove the clamp.

The small clamp was easy. The big one I had to use my yoga to get to it. It probably would had been easy from the back panel but moving the machine requires brute force.

Once the hose was out I found some bra under wires which is what probably punctured the hose.

Removed the front filter and found a bunch of nails.

Assembly was much easier and placed clamps so that if needed it would be a lot easier to remove and replace.

This product comes in a bottle with a brush like Liquid Paper. It goes on incredibly easy. A second coat might be needed. I wanted to prevent rust from setting in so I covered the scratches and dings. The paint is a little brighter since my washer is 10 years old but it still looks great.

I romoved the front of the washer access panel. I then used the pliers to remove the clamps from the old hose and to replaceit with the new one.

looked repair on you tube followed instructions. took off broken latch. compared to pictures on sites. ordered part. part arrived in 2 days. put part on. suggest using first method quick and easy.

Install new water valve. Cut water supply off and remove from back of washer. Remove 3 screws in the top panel from the back. Lift up about a inch and pull back. Comes right out. Set aside. Remove clamp from hose that secures hose to valve. Twist it to break contact and then work it off. Remove screw from the back that holds valve on. Pull up a little and remove wires/ connectors. Mark them or take a picture. Replace with new valve. Connect wires and push it into place. Easier if you put the screw back in that holds it. Put the hose and clamp back on. Put cover on and install the 3 screws. Hook up hoses, turn on water and call the wife. Lol

Everything worked perfectly---thanks to the suggestion of your call center agent. She suggested that since the replacement door handles were no longer available, I should consider repainting them--it worked like a charm. Please tell her she was a life saver. We rent that house in Fl and my returning tenants had complained about the discoloring refer handles. Thank you

Using the Torx Screwdriver, we removed the door from the unit. Then we removed all of the screws on the inside of the washer door. After that we flipped it over and opened it up exposing the inside. We couldn't separate them entirely because there was a screw under the latch piece that we couldn't figure out how to get to. However with all the screws out on the inside of the door, we did have enough room to open it up and access the place cover that holds the hinges in. Once we accessed that we removed the roller tips from the old unit and placed them on the new one. Then we reversed the process. With a couple screws in we realized we had put the hinge in reversed from what it needed to be, so we reopened it and switched it around. Then completed replacing all the screws and reattached it to the washer. It opens and closes perfectly and we saved a couple hundred dollars for sure, as the quote to come out had been a $150 trip charge.

Followed the video on the website. Very easy to replace the part and it fixed the problem. The trickiest part was reinstalling the ring that holds the rubber gasket in place.

Removed the old hoses and screwed on the new hoses.

So I was unable to get my model number so I took the hinge off the washer and was able to order the part. Before removing the hinge I used a marker and marked the hinge location on the washer. Once I got the part I removed the T15 screws on the inside part of the door and separate the pieces. I was able to remove the white tube for all 4 of the pins and put them on the hinge. I installed the hinge an then i put the front door pieces back together again while it was laying on the floor. I though I put it in wrong but I was correct. Once i had the hinge on the door and the door reassembled, I was able to attached the hinge to the washer. The hinge comes off the washer by pushing up on it and to reinstall you push down. I tighten the 4 T25 screws using the marks on the washer and the door is alligned correctly. I am able to close the washer door with one finger instead of my whole hand.

Two people to screwdrivers, stretching the spring out and around and that’s the last part to go on

To replace the water level switch is easy, remove the three screws in the rear, slide top back a couple of inches, lift cover off. Rear upper right corner is the switch. Remove small hose to switch, twist switch 90* and pull out, disconnect two connectors, reverse procedure to install new switch. This did not fix the code problem tho. To get to the pump filter is not very difficult but time consuming. Disconnect the power cord. Remove the soap dispenser, then the two screws behind it, then two screws for the front control panel, then four screws on the bottom of the front cover, back out but leave in the three screws on top of front cover, two screws holding the door lock and switch, careful with that, wires are short and difficult to plug back in, remove water spout from drum seal , lift out the bottom of front cover, the seal holds it in, reach in lying on the floor, the filter is in the center, make sure the washer is empty or water will run out, unscrew filter. I found a fabric eyeglass holder and a $1.94 in coin. This tells me the seal to drum is to far away. Reverse procedure to put back together. I will never buy another front loading Washer again. They don't appear to get enough water to really do a good wash job no matter what cycle you use. If you should pull the seal off close to the drum , it's difficult to fasten back on again.

Desarme la puerta y coloque la nueva con mucha facilidad, nunca reparé un electrodoméstico antes de este, seguí el diagrama que encontré en el sitio para elegir la pieza que se rompio

I followed your repair video explicitly, simple fix. However, one should
be careful when disconnecting the two prong electrical connector from
the heat sensor. the two black wires can pull free easily. In that case, the
rear of the female plastic wired connector must be extracted to allow the two black wires to be "pushed" into the narrow slot which displaces the
wire insulation and allows for a good electrical connection. If a punch tool is not available a pair of needle nose pliers works. Also, observe
the orientation slots on both the male andfemale connectors - they
connect one way only! I set the washer on it's face while effecting this
repair to better see what I was doing (eyesight not as good as it used to be). Thanks for the timely support!

I did follow step by step your YouTube video. I’m a woman. There was nothing heavy in the process. You have to be careful that’s it. Thank you for the instructions. I fixed it with the YouTube tutorial you provided. Really nice from you people.