WFW9150WW01 Whirlpool Washer - Instructions

Unplug, remove top and bottom panels using nut driver.
The control panel also must be removed; mine just snapped loose, providing access to the top hex-head screws securing the front panel/door assembly. The gasket/bellows is secured to the front panel and tub with circular clamps. The front panel clamp, a wire loop held tight with a spring, must be removed prior to taking off the front panel/door. I used a wide blade flat head screwdriver to pry it off. The door assembly is rather heavy and awkward as the door swings randomly once removed. It may be helpful to secure it to the frame with duct tape prior to removal. Six screws, three top and three bottom, secure the panel. Once removed, there is access to the clamp securing the back of the bellows to the tub. This one is a larger loop with a screw type tensioner. After removing it, the old gasket can be pulled out.
These gaskets have drainage holes at the bottom which must be in line with the drain hole on the tub. Clean the grooved edge where the gasket sits. It fits inside a channel on the bellows. It’s a snug fit and it helps to lubricate the bellow’s channel with liquid soap. Once it is in place, make sure it’s seated properly-there’s a groove that accepts the clamp-and the drainage holes are positioned over the drain at the tub’s bottom. Replace the clamp in its channel and tighten it with a nut driver or screwdriver.
Replace the front panel/door. Next, clean the channel on the front panel and work the front of the bellows into it’s place on the panel. The sprung front clamp can be difficult.
There are spreader tools made for the job, but I just used two needle-nose pliers to stretch the spring. After the new bellows is installed, reassemble the cabinet. I left the bottom panel off until I ran a test cycle to check for leaks.

My washer is part of a washer/dryer stack and i did not remove the dryer for the repair. I followed a YouTube video that shows the basics of how to do this repair:
1. Remove the spring-compressed outer band. Did this with needle nose pliers. Then removed the bellows from the outside of the frame--really easy.
2. Remove the inner band. Used a stubby philips head screwdriver while pushing the tub inward to get more room.It was awkward, but patience is key. Once that was loose i removed the inner ring then the bellows from the tub.
Total time for removal was maybe 30 min

For the install i took my time and started at the bottom of the tub and pressed the new bellows in the groove making sure it was in properly. Then the ring went on and again, take the time to make sure it's in the groove. Then tighten.
Lastly attache the bellows the the frame of the machine making sure to take your time to properly seat it in the groove.
The most challenging part was getting the outer ring back on. expanding the spring is a challenge. I used just needle-nose pliers to expand it while trying to keep it from slipping off. I believe there is a tool to expand the ring and it's probably worth buying it to make this step easier.
Over all the install took maybe 30-40 min.
Happy i got it fixed. Good luck!

Easy fix,
I remove the front lower panel and the shocks where right in front of you , with a little twist with an adjustable wrench the cam right off . I removed and the replaced and it the same when you remove the back panel.
P.S when installing the shocks start by connecting to the bottom and then connect to the drum it will make it lot easier.
Good luck on your repair

Couldn’t see exactly where it was coming from. Checked the bellow and it looked ok. Took this hose off and it was kinda chewed up a bit where it connects to the tub. Not bad but enough to make it leak. Ordered the new one. Took forever to get here thru fed ex smart post. Repair takes longer to get the panels off than it does to put new hose on. Hope this helps someone out there.

replaced the hot water valve

I had to cut new slots in the metal base of the machine cabinet to accommodate the different configuration for the rubber boot assembly. Thankfully the new pump works like a charm.

Removed the old hoses and screwed on the new hoses.

you need to take off the front panel of the washer to do this repair, start at the top cover the bults are in the back, then the bottom panel on the front, then the control panel needs to come off, after all 3 of those are removed you can get to the front panel the door
the door lock also needs to be removed to get this panel off, then a couple small bults at the top of the panel.
once everything is removed you can start take off the old boot.
start with the front boot seal spring clamp using a flat head screwdriver then remove the boot from the inner drum. then the back boot seal clamp will be removed before you can pull the boot off of the washer
installing the new boot I think you should start with inserting the inner seal first then put in a silicone caulking before you pull the outer seal on the inner drum. once that is on re install the clamp and move to the outer seal
this you can use an extra set of hands if someone is around if not it is possible to do it yourself, you will need 3 flat head screw drivers to work the front boot seal spring clamp into place. make sure that is seated well before you start to reinstall the door and other panels
good luck

I just took off the old part and installed the new one. The new part was a bit different.

Took it old pump and replaced with new pump VERY EASY

First tilt the washer back so you can drain water from the lines to the pump and the pump itself. Disconnect the lines with a pair of pliers and use a screwdriver to move the rubber stopper so that the pump will move to the right. With pump now in position to lift up and out of the washer , do it so you can disconnect the wire assembly. Replace the pump starting with the wires, then slide it in place and secure it with the rubber stopper. Attach the lines and make sure they are well sitted and clamped. set on feet and you are ready to wash.

As video instructed

Since i knew the filter was cleared of obstructions I knew the code issue was something more serious. After consulting with local repair reps I decided that the drain pump was beginning to slow down causing the faults. First, I took the lower front panel off the front of the washing machine so that I could drain the water out of the plumbing. After draining the water out of the pump into a pan, I went ahead and then lifted the front of the washer (and dryer on top of it) and tilted it back far enough so that my wife could place some blocking under the front of the washer. I did this so that I could access two screws on the bottom of the pump. First disconnect the wire socket connection to the motor. Make sure power is off before doing this. There is plastic clip holding the wires to the motor that may need a screwdriver to pry it apart for removal. There are two 1.5" long screws holding the pump to the frame that require at least 4" of space so that you can remove them with a socket. After removing the two pump screws I disconnected both pump hoses from the pump. This requires pliers for one clamp and screwdriver or nut driver for the other clamp. My machine originally came with one clamp that could not be removed, so I had to use a dremel with a stone to cut the clamp. You have to be careful to not damage the hose when cutting the clamp if it cannot be removed with tools. I replaced it with a 2" typical standard stainless steel hose clamp. Carefully wiggling the pump while pushing it to the side it will loosen up so that the front of the pump can be pulled up. One side needs to have the plastic plate pried apart from underneath and after removing it the pump will come free to lift out. Reverse the removal process for re-installation. It is a little tricky holding the squeeze clamp open while pulling the hose onto the pump, but it is not too difficult. Before putting the front panel on run one load of laundry to make sure there are no leaks. Once you find there are no leaks, then tilt the machine up and back to reattach the front panel. It is much easier to do it this way than with the machine on the floor since the panel screw are on the bottom of the panel at floor level.

Replaced drain pump took longer to soak up water than actually replacing the pump motor with mine having the pedestal underneath I did not have to tip the washer at all so it was fast and easy. Three screws taking the front cover off a screwdriver lifting the Rubber and sliding the motor off and pair of pliers 4 to hose clamps making it a breeze.

Washer was on a 13 inch high platform I built for front.load Heat washer and dryer. Removed 3.screws from bottom of front panel and had access to all 4 shocks..front and rear. All shocks were unattachedeither at base or on tub. Easy to install all 3 from front without moving Mach. I figured if 1 or 2 shocks failed the violent.movement broke the other 2. Purrs like.a.kitten now. No bearing.or spring.damage.