WFW9150WW01 Whirlpool Washer - Instructions

Easy fix,
I remove the front lower panel and the shocks where right in front of you , with a little twist with an adjustable wrench the cam right off . I removed and the replaced and it the same when you remove the back panel.
P.S when installing the shocks start by connecting to the bottom and then connect to the drum it will make it lot easier.
Good luck on your repair

Couldn’t see exactly where it was coming from. Checked the bellow and it looked ok. Took this hose off and it was kinda chewed up a bit where it connects to the tub. Not bad but enough to make it leak. Ordered the new one. Took forever to get here thru fed ex smart post. Repair takes longer to get the panels off than it does to put new hose on. Hope this helps someone out there.

replaced the hot water valve

I had to cut new slots in the metal base of the machine cabinet to accommodate the different configuration for the rubber boot assembly. Thankfully the new pump works like a charm.

Since i knew the filter was cleared of obstructions I knew the code issue was something more serious. After consulting with local repair reps I decided that the drain pump was beginning to slow down causing the faults. First, I took the lower front panel off the front of the washing machine so that I could drain the water out of the plumbing. After draining the water out of the pump into a pan, I went ahead and then lifted the front of the washer (and dryer on top of it) and tilted it back far enough so that my wife could place some blocking under the front of the washer. I did this so that I could access two screws on the bottom of the pump. First disconnect the wire socket connection to the motor. Make sure power is off before doing this. There is plastic clip holding the wires to the motor that may need a screwdriver to pry it apart for removal. There are two 1.5" long screws holding the pump to the frame that require at least 4" of space so that you can remove them with a socket. After removing the two pump screws I disconnected both pump hoses from the pump. This requires pliers for one clamp and screwdriver or nut driver for the other clamp. My machine originally came with one clamp that could not be removed, so I had to use a dremel with a stone to cut the clamp. You have to be careful to not damage the hose when cutting the clamp if it cannot be removed with tools. I replaced it with a 2" typical standard stainless steel hose clamp. Carefully wiggling the pump while pushing it to the side it will loosen up so that the front of the pump can be pulled up. One side needs to have the plastic plate pried apart from underneath and after removing it the pump will come free to lift out. Reverse the removal process for re-installation. It is a little tricky holding the squeeze clamp open while pulling the hose onto the pump, but it is not too difficult. Before putting the front panel on run one load of laundry to make sure there are no leaks. Once you find there are no leaks, then tilt the machine up and back to reattach the front panel. It is much easier to do it this way than with the machine on the floor since the panel screw are on the bottom of the panel at floor level.

you need to take off the front panel of the washer to do this repair, start at the top cover the bults are in the back, then the bottom panel on the front, then the control panel needs to come off, after all 3 of those are removed you can get to the front panel the door
the door lock also needs to be removed to get this panel off, then a couple small bults at the top of the panel.
once everything is removed you can start take off the old boot.
start with the front boot seal spring clamp using a flat head screwdriver then remove the boot from the inner drum. then the back boot seal clamp will be removed before you can pull the boot off of the washer
installing the new boot I think you should start with inserting the inner seal first then put in a silicone caulking before you pull the outer seal on the inner drum. once that is on re install the clamp and move to the outer seal
this you can use an extra set of hands if someone is around if not it is possible to do it yourself, you will need 3 flat head screw drivers to work the front boot seal spring clamp into place. make sure that is seated well before you start to reinstall the door and other panels
good luck

My washer is part of a washer/dryer stack and i did not remove the dryer for the repair. I followed a YouTube video that shows the basics of how to do this repair:
1. Remove the spring-compressed outer band. Did this with needle nose pliers. Then removed the bellows from the outside of the frame--really easy.
2. Remove the inner band. Used a stubby philips head screwdriver while pushing the tub inward to get more room.It was awkward, but patience is key. Once that was loose i removed the inner ring then the bellows from the tub.
Total time for removal was maybe 30 min

For the install i took my time and started at the bottom of the tub and pressed the new bellows in the groove making sure it was in properly. Then the ring went on and again, take the time to make sure it's in the groove. Then tighten.
Lastly attache the bellows the the frame of the machine making sure to take your time to properly seat it in the groove.
The most challenging part was getting the outer ring back on. expanding the spring is a challenge. I used just needle-nose pliers to expand it while trying to keep it from slipping off. I believe there is a tool to expand the ring and it's probably worth buying it to make this step easier.
Over all the install took maybe 30-40 min.
Happy i got it fixed. Good luck!

I followed the instructions in the video (available on the site) and had no problem whatsoever to replace the boot. This video is so detailed that it is difficult to go wrong.
Only caution I would make is that this may prove to be a bit too much if the person has never ever used tools before.

I followed your repair video explicitly, simple fix. However, one should
be careful when disconnecting the two prong electrical connector from
the heat sensor. the two black wires can pull free easily. In that case, the
rear of the female plastic wired connector must be extracted to allow the two black wires to be "pushed" into the narrow slot which displaces the
wire insulation and allows for a good electrical connection. If a punch tool is not available a pair of needle nose pliers works. Also, observe
the orientation slots on both the male andfemale connectors - they
connect one way only! I set the washer on it's face while effecting this
repair to better see what I was doing (eyesight not as good as it used to be). Thanks for the timely support!

Removed top of washer. Removed top front panel. Removed old front panel clamp. Removed front door panel. Removed old tub clamp. Then removed torn tub seal. Installed new tub seal. Needed two sets of hands to install new tub seal. Pretty tight installing the new tub seal around drum lip. Might be a good idea to heat up or let your new tub seal soak in water prior to installation. Once tub seal was installed, I installed new tub clamp then re-installed the door switch. After that, I put the front door panel back on. Then tightened down the door switch. Finally, I installed the top front panel and then the top of the washer.

Removed the top cover of the washer, unclamped the intake hoses from the valves and unplugged their control wires, unscrewed the old valves and removed them from the case, screwed on the new valves, replugged the wires, reclamped the hoses, fastened the top back on.

Replaced the pump. Continued to get the F9E1 error. Removed and cleaned the drain pipe between the drum and the pump. Problem resolved.

There is a video on this site that shows how to do the install. It is perfect and accurate. This pump is one of the easiest components to fix on this washer and it will save you money to do it yourself. Tech has told me twice to buy a new washer. This did the job. Make sure to take the time to fully drain the machine prior to doing this and make sure that you unplug your machine. To drain, just unscrew the cover on the front of the pump. If you start disconnecting hoses without draining you could have a mess on your hands depending on how much water is still in the washer. Use a shallow pan or bucket if your machine is on a pedestal. I have a floor drain in front of mine so I use a piece of foil to channel the water into it. After that, just do the install like the video. Also make sure to examine the reconnected hoses after you get done to make sure that they are solidly attached to the pump and that the base of the pump is tightly secured to the bottom of the machine. You have to secure the feet of the pump from the bottom which is why the video recommends putting blocks under the washer to have access to the bottom. Pump is great. Everything works well.

Three 1/2 bolts tighten as required

As video instructed