WFMC3301UC Bosch Washer - Instructions

Removed washing machine door. Then removed old hinge. Replaced with the new hinge. Replaced door. SPECIAL NOTE: Do not lose white plastic rings that cover hinge nipples on washer. The replacement part does not come with these 4 pieces.

My husband took off the back of the washer and disconnected the hose that connected the pump to the main drum. He has strong fingers--did it that way--but really you need a pillars. After putting it all back together we got another weird code--E29 and the door wouldn't lock. But after turning everything off and waiting 30 minutes, the genius machine just suddenly reset itself and started working correctly. No problems since and we've done about 30 loads since then. While on the phone with Bosch, trying to learn how to clear the new code, I heard only, "We only give information to certified repairmen and home repairs are definitely not covered by the warranty." Who cares? I'm now a satisfied mom who is actually washing clothes after only two days waiting for shipping--IF I could get any repairman to my house this month I'd be surprised and not for cheaper than the price of a new washer! Thank you for your great parts:)

Turned off the water to the washer. Took the top off of the washer. Used pliers to loosen the rings holding the hoses to the valve. After the hoses were removed from the valve I popped out the old inlet valve. I put the new inlet valve in place and put the hoses and rings back on. Secured the top of washer back on the washer turned the water back on. No leak present.

Shut off water supply to washer, unplugged from power. Removed two Torx screws holding the top panel of the washer on (screws are on the back). Slid top back, then lifted up and off. Located cold water inlet valve. Squeezed hose clams with needle nose pliers and slid the two hoses off valve. Disconnected wire harness (look for push tab) from valve. With a little work figured out how to pop valve out of its opening. Installed new valve in its place and re-connected all hookups. Reattached top to washer, plugged and in reconnected water. Ran a test load, then another - no more errors!

The thickness of the sleeves are 3.0 mm thick on the base of the sleeve. However the sleeve on the bottom of both the upper and lower hinges of this model washer are different sizes. The base of the sleeve on the top of each hinge post is 3.0 mm but the sleeve on the bottom post of each hinge is only 1.2 mm thick. The bracket on the door that holds all 4 screws to attach the door to the washer will not fit unless you reuse the old sleeve from the lower posts or reduce the thickness of the disc on the lower post to 1.2 mm. I spent hours trying to get the door back on and finally saw why I couldn't get the screws back in because the bracket could not go in place and sit flush the the washer.

I watched the great video on youtube first, my washer model was a bit different, and removing the front panel was a bit different, but easy to figure out. I also had to remove the door separately. In order to install the first clip spring, I had to loosen the counterbalances a bit to get the seal properly aligned. From there I was able to install the spring clip my myself. So far, so good, installing the second clip to the front panel was quite difficult by myself, and the rubber kept popping out of the gap. Finally I enlisted another pair of hands to hold the clip in place up top and on the sides while I stretched the spring around the bottom. It took about 5 tries before we got it secured.

This was my first time performing repairs on this machine.
I work in the engineering field and consider myself as having at least some mechanical aptitude.
The included instructions contained references to the disassembly of the reservoirs. This did not apply to my washer.
I was able to find a youtube video which was not significantly helpful.
Be prepared to keep track of parts removed and hardware.
Disassembly requires disassembly and removal of washer door.
Further disassembly was required to adequately access the part to be replaced. This includes removal of two large weights which improved access.
I removed the damaged bellows. The two spring-loaded clamps are way easier to remove than to install.
I gently set the new part in place to ensure I had the right part which seems to be easily damaged.
Securing the inner spring-loaded clamp was difficult as the new bellows needs to be installed in a specific orientation (it needs to be "keyed") and is quite floppy and pops out of position easily.
I'd recommend an additional pair of hands or two. Careful usage of multiple "C" clamps may be helpful, as well.
Use caution as to not pinch fingers or trap tools.
The spring of the spring-loaded clamp is quite strong. I used two pairs of locking pliers to grab the eyelets at each end of the spring.
The more you can extend the spring for 10+ seconds - without breaking it - the better.
It will likely take multiple attempts to apply the spring-loaded clamp when the bellows is in the correct position.
Make extra sure the bellows is fully seated, in the correct alignment and that the inner spring-loaded clamp is in the correct position.
Partially reassemble the washer to the point where the large front plate is installed.
Reassembly and attachment of the door is optional at this point It is it's own bundle of joy to reassemble and adjust. I saved it for last.
Securing the outer spring-loaded clamp was difficult as the achieving proper seal seating while installing the outer spring-loaded clamp was difficult. It is at least as difficult as installing the innerspring-loaded clamp as it seemed to be more likely that the seals of the bellows would pop out of place while working with it.
Again, make extra sure the bellows is fully seated, in the correct alignment and that the outer spring-loaded clamp is in the correct position.
After assembly and attachment of the door it was misaligned (the latching bar of the door collided with the latching mechanism in the large front plate). It required further disassembly and reassembly of the door to achieve proper alignment.
I ran a load of wash and no leaking.

After doing research, I ordered a new hot water inlet valve. After that arrived, I:
1. Turned off the water going into the washer and unplugged it.
2. Pulled the washer away from the wall and unscrewed the cold and hot water intakes to check the filters and make sure they were both clear.
3. Unscrewed the two screws (they were hex heads, so they needed a socket wrench) in the back of the washer (right and left sides) that were holding the top on. Once removed, I removed the top cover to the washer by pushing it back slightly, then popping it off.
4. Used the pliers to loosen the metal clamp attaching a rubber hose to the old hot water inlet valve - disconnected that hose by scooting the clamp back away from the valve and pulling the hose off.
5. Removed the old inlet valve (takes some finagling) and placed the new valve in an identical position.
6. Reattached the hose and clamp to the new inlet valve.
7. Reattached the hot and cold water lines to the washer.
8. Replaced the washer cover and two screws.
9. Turned the water back on and pushed the washer back into place and plugged it back in.
10. Tested a hot water cycle. Fixed!

Removed screws from top cover. Slid the cover backs 1/4 inch, and lifted it off. Removed the wire harness by depressing the tab, and pulling it off. Depressed the tab in the back of the water inlet valve, slid it slightly forward and pulled it out. Installed the new part in reverse order.

When putting on the new spring clamp it will come out unless you take a few clamps to hold it in place.

Once you find a T-20 screw driver, it is easy.
Remove top by unscrewing two screws from rear and sliding top back about an inch.
Slide electronic plug out from old unit.
Use pliers to remove two hose clamps. Remove hoses.
Use flat head screwdriver to push old unit to the left when facing back of machine.
Put in new unit. Slide in plug. Reconnect hoses slide clamps back over hoses.
The hardest part was placing the top back on by aligning two tabs and sliding the top back in.
Replace tow screws.

Unplug the power cord, remove and clean out drain hose. Remove back access panel. Unplug wiring harness, remove both drain hoses from old pump. Have a wet/dry shop vac ready and running to help avoid a mess. Reconnect both drain hoses and wiring harness to new pump and replace back access panel. Do laundry.

Are used a YouTube video from Scott the fix-it guy to help me with the repair. The paper instructions were not very helpful. I removed the top in front of the washer as well as the concrete parts inside to make me springs easier to install. My husband and I had to put the springs on together with our hands and screwdrivers. I was able to do the rest of the install myself. Just took a couple hours as I am an amateur and needed to remove so many screws and replace.

the repair was easy...after i fixed the bent part I got from Partselect and found the old screws, since the new ones provided were the incorrect part

Partselect over-charged, as this same item is 50% less elsewhere

I will take my future business elsewhere, since after reaching out to Partselect.com, they did not reply.

-Mike

followed video on computer. direction that came with part could not follow, and i have 50 yrs. of blueprint work.