WEF326GSA Westinghouse Range - Instructions

When I pulled the element out of the back panel of the oven to remove it, the electrical connection got caught on the edge of the hole in the panel and disappeared back into the oven insulation. It was difficult to find and pull it back out to reinstall it on the new element.

first i remove cover, then i unscrew defective part, remove wires. i then install new part & replace marked wires . I then replace cover, turn on oven and holla! my oven is working.

I had already switched off the breaker for the range, so I unplugged the unit and moved it out from the wall. I removed the screws on the rear cover and exposed the clock/timer. I then removed the four screws holding the clock/timer,used my pocket knife to gently pry the wires off of the old unit one at a time, as these were very tight. Holding the new clock/timer in my other hand I installed the wires one at a time to match the original clock timer wiring.I installed the clock/timer, the range back cover, slid the range back into place, plugged it in and turned on the breaker. My wife is happy, I am too.
A repair shop wanted $100.00 just to go to our home and look at our range. We spent $104.00 plus $20.00 for the new overlay, fifteen minutes of my time, a real bargin!
Thank you PartSelect, I'll be ordering from you again!

made a drawing as to where the wires were to placed on the new switch,took longer to do this than finding right tools. Important safety tip,always pull off the required breaker!!!

It went very well. Very quick. Just took out a couple of screws, took out the rest of the broken glass, slipped the new piece in and screwed it all back together. This was the first time I had ever tried to fix any part of a range/oven before, it was very simple...

Just placed the chrome bowl trays in place and was good to go. They look very nice.

Discovered that that oven control panel was to blame for both heating elements to stop working at the same time. Went online and ordered the part which was delivered in 2 days. Installation very basic and included the following: 1)Pulled out stove and un-plugged stove 2)Removed top rear panel 3) Removed 4 screws of the damaged control panel (leaving all wires plugged in) 4)Installed new control panel and connected wires one by one to make sure done correctly 5) Replaced rear panel plugged in stove testing oven.

I started to smell burning electrical smell from the burner area and heard a "buzzing" sound from the burner control while the burner was on. Pulled the element and noticed that the wire coil end of the left element was burned and pitted from arcing.
Pulled the range top up, used a phillips screwdriver to remove the terminal block clip from the range top. Upon inspecting the burner terminal block, I saw the brass wiper was missing from one side of the left slot, and there was considerable heat damage around the slot opening.
The terminal block being replaced was already replaced earlier for the same problem. The appliance repair folks recommended that we use light cookware on the burner. Instead, ensure both element leads are fully inserted into the terminal block.
I turned the power off at the breaker, used a utility knife to carefully slit the heat shrink tubing on the existing replacement, unscrewed the ceramic wirenuts, removed the old block, straightened out the range wires, slid the new heatshrink over the range wires, then twisted the new terminal block wires to the range wires. Screwed on the ceramic wirenuts, slid the heatshrink tubing over the wirenuts, and used matches to shrink it tight.
The package contains an instruction sheet with simple instructions.
Once the new terminal block was installed and the element terminals were fully seated, the "buzzing" from the burner control disappeared.

The hardest part was pulling the oven away from the wall. Two bolts hold the sensor in place and a clip connects the electronics. Replacing the old one was trivial.

The light apparatus was loose behind the panel. Remove the remaining part of the lens. Install the new lens from the outside of the panel and hold it in position, protruding into the inside of the panel. Slide the light apparatus onto the lens from the inside, allowing the bracket to hold it in place - it will be spring loaded, which will hold it in place.

purchased a square bit and removed screws easily and disconnected it from the wiring and pushed in the new element secured screw and it was back to baking.

Turned off power at the circuit box. After locating 1/4" nut driver (the hardest part of the repair)I removed the oven racks. Took the opportunity to wipe out oven. Removed the two screws holding the element in place.Pulled element out gently to expose the connections. Wiggled the terminal connector off the terminal on element. Gave the wire a little bend to keep it from pulling back into frame. Repeated process on other side. Removed new element from wrapper. Placed element on oven floor, reattached terminals--making sure they were on snuggly--carefully slid terminal ends back though slots in oven body. Lined up brackets, reinstalled screws, replaced racks and turned power back on. Turned oven on it worked. Made cookies! Very easy repair.

Took screws out back of oven to get to connectors . Pulled old conectors off Installed new element took about 5 min. Very easy job. Also good time to clean oven .

Disconnect power to Range at Electrical Service Panel control box. Remove 240 volt service electrical plug to range. Remove back top panel to expose element control switches. Remove element control switch to L.F. burner by first pulling off the control knob. You may need to use a large flat screw driver to pry behind knob to get it started but it should come straight off. There are two screws revealed under knob that need to come off. Then the element control is easily, but carefully, removed out the back. Be careful you do not pull the "Hot Surface Indicator Light" switch off right above the element control switch. If you do, this will break the end off the plastic "Hot Surface Indicator Light" lens. If this happens you can still replace it but you will need to use super glue to make the "Hot Surface Indicator Light" switch stay connected to the clear lens. Install new element control in reverse order before gluing the "Hot Surface Indicator Light" switch as stated above or you will knock it off again. While holding the old element control in your hand with wires still attached, remove one wire at a time (making note of the location code for each wire) from old element control and install on new control. The new element control layout for the wire prongs will be different so you need to make sure you look for the code (like L1, H1, P) located on each prong location and put the same coded wire from old element control location onto new control prong code location. Reinstall new element control (with wires pushed fully onto prongs of new control) into panel with screws removed before. Reinstall knob, reinstall panel cover and reconnect range power plug. Restore power to Range at Electrical Service Panel control box With electric power restored, test element control by turning it on and see if it properly cycles on and off at different settings. If working properly you should be able to hear it click on and off and element heating and going off accordingly.

my husband did the repair.He unplugged the stove removed the element and installed the new element.plugged the stove in and checked operation of element.Stove works great