WED6200SW1 Whirlpool Dryer - Instructions

Kit arrived with all the parts required and with detailed instructions. LOL... the very specialized tool you will need to dis-assemble the dryer? A PUTTY KNIFE. All in all, aside from the top of the dryer slamming shut without warning and scaring the pants off me, this was a relatively easy repair from a technical level. Only real difficult thing was removing and then restoring the drum and that was more due to clearance than actually being difficult. Make sure once you're finished to LEVEL THE DRYER. That makes a HUGE difference!!!!!

Pulled dryer from wall, disconnected electrical plug, disconnected dryer vent, check vent flapper for proper operation, took back from dryer, replaced upper limit and heater limit, reinstalled all, checked dryer vent for obstructions, works fine now...

remove back of dryer and install new part

First I take off the top panel , then take out four screw of console panel and disconnected wire from machine electric panel . Now I take four screw of door panel , disconnected door switch and take door panel out . Next step is to take 2 screw at blow housing and take this part out . Now I have enough room to take off two wire of the old thermal fuse and thermistor without removing the drum . Pull out old thermal fuse and thermisor , install the new one, reconnect two wire for each of them and reinstall all of part I take out before .The dyer work good after that but in the next day the dyer won't start again .I some time hear the sound bip bip together with the light from console panel even though I don't press any buttom at all .I thought either machine control electric or user interface die . As a new customer of partselect , I would like to hear any idea from you . Thanks for reading .

Took 12 screws off the back. One screw for the fuse. $9.32 and 30 minutes and we're back in business!

Removed door catch and installed new one. Easy as pie, after watching installation video.

I ordered the maintenance kit because it was recomended for my application and the symptoms my dryer was exhibiting. However this kit did not apply to my model. My model contained 4 drum rollers, only 2 came with the kit, and the idler pulley setup was completely different. I should have pulled the dryer apart first to compare pictures to the actual parts. No big deal, prompt refund after a quick phone call to Parts select. I was able to fix my idler pulley with a couple of new nylon washers and a new snap ring to hold it in place. Whirlpool cabrio wed6200sw1.

First removed and checked the ignighter. It was fine. Next I located the schematic drawing and discovered that the burner, ignighter, and flame detector were all operated by one simple 110 volt circuit. This circuit did not power up when the dryer was cycled on. I pulled the dryer from the wall, removed the back panel, the vent etc. I then located the operating thermostat and the thermal fuze. The thermal fuze was open. (GOOD NEWS AN EASY FIX!!!) Thanks Guys

remove 4 screws,unplug old part, put in new one put back of dryer on the hardest thing to do was moving the dryer to get to the back

Well the video showed us taking off the back. Which wouldn't come off. Welded. Then we could not find the fuse in back of the unit or bottom. The second time we tried we found it in the front. We had to take off the front, bottom cover then we found the fuse. But, it didn't fix the problem. The unit is still on Casual load only. When we push the buttons the other lights light up but goes back to Casual. The unit is clear of lint and still drys but only at the Casual setting.

Followed instructions that came with the dryer with the exception of the idler pulley which I didn't install because this maintenance kits idler pulley does not match my dryers. Not even close. I would have had to cut or drill holes to make it work. Since I knew it was the rollers that were the problem. Dryer worked great once I was done, but it probably would have been cheaper for me to order the parts individually without the Idler Pulley if I wasn't going to replace one.

soooooooo proud of myself!!!! cause I correctly ordered and correctly installed seal on door on clothes dryer

PROBLEM: Intermittently, the dryer would not advance on the Auto Dry setting and would stay at max heat continuously, even after 2.5 hours with the clothes dry and very warm. At first, I replaced the CYCLING THERMOSTAT, which DID NOT correct this issue. Then I also found the 60 Minute Timed dry setting would work fine until the end of the cycle and the dryer would stop like it should. Then, I checked back 10-15 minutes later and found the timer had advanced into Fluff Dry Timed cycle with heater on full, but the dryer not moving air. This caused the Thermo-Cut switch (fuse) off to open and the Heater Element would not put out enough heat to dry the clothes. TROUBLESHOOTING: 1- UNPLUG the dryer for all troubleshooting and set the DVM for OHMS ( or use ohm-meter). 2- Both the Cycling Thermostat and High Limit Thermostat checked good at 0 ohms (dryer unplugged). The entire Thermo Cut-off/Thermostat circuit can be checked at the Timer (VERIFY proper wire color with dryer schematic in top console), which also verifies the wires are good and should be 0 ohms without the Heater Element in the circuit. For the Whirlpool WED5300SQ0 dryer, it's the Red and Orange wires at the Timer. 3- If the Heater Element is in the circuit (see schematic for test points), look for between 8-12 ohms for a good Heater Element. For the Whirlpool WED5300SQ0 dryer, it's the Red and White/Black wires at the Timer or across the Heater Element connection. SOLUTION: The Heater Element checked out good at 10 ohms. When the Heater Element was physically removed from the dryer one of the PORCELAIN MOUNTS was BUSTED, which caused the heater element coil to intermittently come in contact with the dryer housing while running/drying clothes, which caused the Timer to not advance on Auto Dry when the Cycling Thermostat Opened and malfunction for the Timed Dry settings. To physically check the Heater Element, just remove the 2 screws and the wires to the High Limit Thermostat can stay hooked up. The Thermo-Cut off kit is easy to install and there is a installation video if there are questions. Just be careful to NOT cut the Heater Element connector on the Jumper wire kit. The spade connector for the heater element is wider than the other side that is cut off for the dual spade connector. The Heater Element is easy to replace as well. If the Thermo-Cutoff Kit is being installed, the new High Limit Thermostat can be mounted to the new Heater Element before it is mounted to the dryer housing, which makes it easier to screw in the self-tapping screws. After this repair was completed, dryer has functioned perfectly after many loads of clothes using all dryer settings.

I was pretty sure it was the heating element. I watched two different Youtube videos. Once I cleaned up all of the trash and coins behind the dryer, it was just a matter of removing the screws from the back. I disconnected the wires, replaced the element, and reconnected everything and replaced all of the screws. It works perfectly again!

I purchased the maintenance kit and followed the video on part select.com. Replacing the drum wheels, pully and belt was not difficult. I probably found enough coins in the dryer to pay for the maintenance kit. The only tricky part was getting the cap on the end of the axle. It requires a bit of force applied evenly.