WDB745RES0 Westinghouse Dishwasher - Instructions

New one snaps into place easily.

Water had been dripping for quite some time causing the floor boards to warp and buckle causing the door to no longer align. Water drip could be seen coming from the motor area. Ordered the O rings and replaced. Get Motor & Pump schematic Pub to visualize how parts fit together. I recommend getting motor (~$90)which comes with O rings (~$50 for O rings alone) because, as it turns out, the leak was in motor. I will post repair process in separate posting.

Remove 3 screws from stem assembly. Swapped the old for the new, replace screws. Installed and lock lower wash wand. Fixed in 5 min. Great service and prices. My wife thanks you. (Had to hand wash dishes for a few days) thanks

Our dishwasher sat in a warehouse for a year after our move from CA to TX. When I finally installed it, there was some sort of white mineral deposit that had built up on the heater element. I didn't notice it back in CA. I tried to get as much as possible off but it kept building. So I purchased a new heater element. It's been in for a few weeks and my wife thinks the build up is happening again.
To Repair;
Unscrew the dishwasher from the counter. They'll be one or two screws attaching the dishwasher on the underside of the counter.
Pull the washer out carefully.
Remove any dishes and the bottom rack.
Tilt washer on it's side.
Remove wire connections to heater element (They slide right off but make sure to remember which one goes where)
Unscrew the nuts that are holding the element on. I used some pliers. It wasn't difficult.
Remove old element and replace with new.
Reverse order.

Much easier than I expected. The bottom of the door gasket simply pulled out and the new one slid back into the same spot without any issues. That gasket did not solve the problem. The unit continued to leak. We waited for the back ordered door gasket approximately 2 week to come in. Once it came in the process took about 10 minutes. The old gasket easily pulled out of it's groove around the door. That gasket was dried out and worn in several places. We fitted the new gasket in the groove, trimmed off the excess, closed the door and ran the dishwasher and had no leaks. The two gaskets definitely did the trick. This is an easy DIY for anyone and the parts were priced right!!

Removed the 4 screws that held the dishwasher in place, tilted it out, removed 2 nut screws on striker, installed new striker and put it back together. Very simple.

Thank you for stocking the parts and shipping them as promised.

I'm a stay-at-home mom of 3 kids, so I enlisted the help of my oldest son (5 years old) for this job while the 2 little ones were asleep! First we cut the power to the dishwasher, then we removed the 2 bottom screws on the stainless steel front and slid it off to expose the back of the dispenser. We removed the red and white wires from the left side of the dispenser, took out the 6 screws holding the dispenser in place, put in the new dispenser, hooked up the red and white wires (in the right order), and flipped the breaker back on! We ran a cycle to make sure it worked, and it did!! My husband was thrilled! He thought for sure we needed a new dishwasher! :o) Thank you, PartSelect!

DO NOT BE TEMPTED TO REMOVE THE INNER DOOR SCREWS!!!!! I was and added about 10 minutes to a repair that should take less than 5. The lower door gasket just pulls out the bottom of the door. No tools required, just pull it out. The new one just pushes in, no click or anything, just make sure it bottoms into the groove.

I already had the dishwasher pulled out (remove the two screws from under the counter holding the dishwasher in place) The drain was located on the right side at the bottom very easily removed after taking out the two screws and removing the tubing. Attached the tubing to the new drain pump, made sure clamps were in place and then screwed the screws back in to hold the drain pump into the bracket. Ran the dishwasher once before pushing it back in to make sure there were no leaks. Had a leak but completely unrelated to the drain pump.....I had to replace the hot water supply line the next day, also SUPER EASY. Pushed dishwasher back in and replaced the two screws into the brackets that hold the dishwasher in. Kind of disappointed that I had to replace these things since the dishwasher is just over a year old, but PartSelect made finding the part super easy and they were by far the BEST PRICE! Thanks again! Only suggestion is I wish that it would have come with directions...but I figured it out pretty well!

I had to remove the dishwasher from under the counter, flip it on it's side to gain access to the discharge hose attachment point, removeit, remove the other end of the hose from the sink-side and replace the hose. The sink-end of the hose has a 'collar' that must be cut to fit the fitting on the sink.

Unplugged dishwasher, removed the 2 wires clipped to the heating element, removed both cracked nuts, replaced with new nuts from PartSelect, clipped on wires, plugged in and did a test cycle. Based upon service quote from Best Buy, I saved myself $125.00 for just the call out, not including parts and labor.

Removing two screws on the inside of the door alows the outside panel to slide down and detach. The soap dispenser connects with six screws and two wires. Remove the dispenser through the inside of the door. Replace, reattach and reasseble in 15 minutes.

Removed the bottom covering on dishwasher and then ran it to figure out where the leak was coming from. Noticed it was dripping off hose, but not actually leaking from hose.

Unplugged dishwasher and slid it out from cabinet area (be sure to turn off and disconnect water supply)

Followed delivery tube up side of dishwasher to top of tub and noticed reminents of where water ran down side of tub.

Loosened delivery tube by plastic nut inside of tube and removed. Noticed gasket was partially depleted.

Ordered new gasket, replaced and put everything back together. (Be sure to use teflon tape on water source fitting and tighten firmly). No leaks

remove vanity panel
disconnect copper supply line from valve
remove valve mounting screws
rotate valve to access hose clamp
loosen clamp and slide up rubber tubing about 2 inches
pull hose off barbed fitting and remove old valve
reverse order with new valve

This was pretty easy. It was a guess as to the problem, but there much debate , if the water isn't moving it had to be the pump, right?. So i replaced the circulation pump. 2 screws on the top and two trim screws on the bottom, and it slides right out. Then UNPLUG IT.. Take the screen out of the bottom on the inside and make sure you get all the water out or it will end up on the floor when you tip it on it's side. The directions were ok, i looked over them briefly but didn't use them. tools were, phillips srewdriver, torx driver (pump bracket srews) wire stripper/crimper (for the plug adaptor) and a heat gun, (for the heat shrink tube for the crimp connection). Overall it was pretty easy. the pump was made to be easy to replace. 45 min and back in action.