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Models > WBVH5100H1WW > Instructions

WBVH5100H1WW General Electric Washer - Instructions

All installation instructions for WBVH5100H1WW parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the washer repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the WBVH5100H1WW
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Crack in Water inlet pipe.

  • Customer: Donelly from Clovis, NM
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 0 of 0 people found this instruction helpful
Took of back and lower panel to check where leak was look up and notice the plastic piece cracked and then look up diagram of model and ordered part. Once it arrived it didn't take very long to repair. Easy to a bit difficult and no more leaks.

Door Boot Seal was ripped

  • Customer: Marianne from Bend, OR
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 0 of 0 people found this instruction helpful
Called a Repair Man, he came installed the part and I now have a working washer once again:)

hole in drain line

  • Customer: glenn from northfeild, NH
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 0 of 0 people found this instruction helpful
All i did is pull the front panel off,then n removed the front clap with channel locks then the side clamp the same way.i then removed the main clamp with a Phillips screwdriver very simple not ever 15 minutes to do

tear in door boot that leaked water

  • Customer: J from cummington, MA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 0 of 0 people found this instruction helpful
Best to watch youtube video and take the time to take washer apart and gain the access needed. I completed repair and dismantled the filter and cleaned it in about an hour, better than the average of 2 hours.

Water leak

  • Customer: Dennis from Mount Kisco, NY
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 0 of 0 people found this instruction helpful
Any repair should go easily if you have the right tools and the right PARTS. Like the before mentioned and all went well. The hardest thing about this particular water leak is identifining were the leak is. These parts are on the top of the washer. Take the top off and whamo there it is the cracked fill tube and smashed to hell washer. Real easy to replace. BUT that is really putting a band-aid on the problem. To me this washer was poorly designed by GE. Washer sits on a thick rubber mat, which sits on a conrcete floor and still jumps around, mainly when towels are in it.Fix that problem and then replacing these parts is a one time deal.

Door Plunger Broke

  • Customer: Arthur from Griswold, CT
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
  • 0 of 0 people found this instruction helpful
The white door plunger broke after 3 years of use. After replacing the door plunger the door still would not close. so I also ordered the door lock part for inside the washer. This was also an easy replacement but far more expensive. A thing to note. If the door plunger breaks you may need to reset you locking piece. and save your self 130 dollars. To do this. remove the top panel of the washer. remove the control panel. remove the spring ring around the rubber seal. disconnect the door locking piece and remove from washer. now use a hook or stiff wire and loop inside the door plunger hole and pull the lock out. if it wont release ensure the white piece on the bottom is lowered all the way. This is also possible to reset with out removing but you wont be able to check the white piece(the lock holder). What ever you do do not take apart the locking piece it has lots of little parts an will give you nightmares.

Pump motor went out and quit draining

  • Customer: SCOTT from BOSSIER CITY, LA
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 0 of 0 people found this instruction helpful
My part came in and my husband was at work so..... I did not want to wait for him to come home to wash my clothes! I installed the motor myself and I was not even the one that took it off! It was so easy to do! Turned the washer on and bingo it was back and going! So glad I can get the parts myself and avoid the middle man and his bill!!! Hook up the drain hose with pliers and screw the motor to the frame and that's it!

Door Boot Seal was warped.

  • Customer: Herbert from Central Islip, NY
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 0 of 0 people found this instruction helpful
After looking at the video on how to repair a door boot seal on a Front Loader Washer. I went about installing the new boot seal, but after it still didn't fit in place correctly, I glanced over the top and noticed and after a few minutes noticed that one of the suspension springs was broken and the drum had dropped quite a bit. I ordered the spring I believe it was part 204 and in a couple days I and my father got the spring in place and now the washer is working as good as new. As it turns out I didn't need the door boot seal after all so now I have a backup incase one fails.

Water dripping from soap dispenser outlet tube

  • Customer: LARRY from GREENWELL SPRINGS, LA
  • Difficulty: Very Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench set
  • 0 of 0 people found this instruction helpful
Removed top cover, loosened front door cover, removed & replaced old cracked plastic 'water inlet tube', reinstalled front door unit & top cover. Very tight space to work in when not completely removing front door unit.

Torn Door Boot Seal

  • Customer: ROBERT from EDGEWATER, MD
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 0 of 0 people found this instruction helpful
Remove the bottom panel. Remove the top. Remove the front panel with the door. Romove the two clamps on the boot seal. Remove the old boot seal. Place the new boot seal on the casing around the drum and ensure you put the gasket nozzle and gasket nozzle washer in place. Install the inside gasket clamp with the clamp bolt to the right as you look at it (Note: ensure the nut is over the tab on the boot gasket and stays lined up there as you tighten it. Replace the front panel of the washer and when it is in place put the boot seal on the outside lip (Note: this is the most difficult part as the gaskets does not like to stay in place as you put the outside clamp on. Replace the washer top. Replace the lower panel (Note: while you have the bottom panel off, you may want to clean the debrie trap which is a white pipe and tray that catches stuff that is left in pockets.) For the entire project I used 7mm and 8 mm sockets, flathead screw driver, and a philips head screw drive.

Cracked drum spider from electolysis

  • Customer: Theo Welch from Long Beach, MS
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 0 of 0 people found this instruction helpful
Sandblasted spider to thoroughly clean it and increase ductility.We used aluminum foil covered in 5200 on one side to cover holes eaten through spider. Then glued the spider to the drum and filled inside rim of spider with a nice layer of 5200. If the spider was made of stainless steel, the washer would still be running great. Thanks

Water leak at front of washer

  • Customer: Charles from Madison, FL
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 0 of 0 people found this instruction helpful
Removed top and front control panel. Shut off water, disconnect water lines at front and dispenser. Remove dispenser. Remove water inlet pipe by pulling out of boot. Install new pipe.Reverse proceedure. Note, these pipes may tend to split on the bottom.

Small tear on Door Boot Seal that allowed water to leak

  • Customer: Edwin from Gainesville, VA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Wrench set
  • 0 of 0 people found this instruction helpful
This is the second door boot seal that I've replaced on my GE Washer (I don't know the model number). I turned on my IPad, went on YouTube, and found this video: "GE Front Loader Washer Gasket Replacement." I placed the IPad on top of the dryer which was right next to the washer and followed the instructions step by step. I used the pause and play buttons repeatedly to ensure I followed the instructions correctly. The hardest part was placing two retainer rings back on. These retainer rings are used to attach the gasket to the washer drum and to the door opening. When the door is closed it effectively seals the drum preventing water from spilling out or leaking. Before reinstalling both rings, ensure that the gasket is properly seated inside the appropriate grooves on the drum and the door opening respectively. It’s a very tight fit between gasket and metal, so you have to make sure the gasket is properly seated all the way around. The inside retainer ring can be tighten with a Philips screw driver or a small wrench. Not as easy as it sounds because you don't have too much room to work with. I had to grab the drum on the right side and tilt to the left in order to get a little more room for my screwdriver. It may be easier with a small wrench, but I don't have the patience. The second retainer ring goes on the outside of the gasket and the door opening. This ring is spring loaded. Attempt to place as much of the ring inside the groove before the spring loaded tension prevents you from going any further. When you get to this point, take a flat tip screwdriver (careful not to damage the gasket) and hold the retainer ring in place while moving counterclockwise and with a second flat tip screwdriver stretched the ring and popped into place until the whole ring is in place. The guy in the video does this effortlessly with only his hands. The first time I did this, my wife helped me do it. She held the left side while I used two flat tip screwdrivers to stretch the ring, pop in place, hold, stretch, and pop in place until complete. Once you're done you will feel good about yourself and grateful to the gentleman who recorded the video and was nice enough to share. Good luck.

drive pulley came loose from shaft

  • Customer: Eddie from Monrovia, CA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Socket set
  • 0 of 0 people found this instruction helpful
hold drive pulley from turning and used socket wrench to remove nut. then pulled off pulley from shaft and belt came off same time. very carefully filed the flat sides of the shaft end where the pulley slides onto. careful not to overfile or round out the she shaft end. carefully tap in place the pulley onto the shaft. install a new nut and tighten it approx. 40 ft pounds or 1/4 turn past tight. do not reuse old nut. pulley comes with a new one and the nylon on the old one is no good once used. once pulley is tight install the belt first onto the motor shaft then work the other end of the belt onto the pulley from top end then turn the pulley wheel counter clockwise as you push more belt onto the pulley wheel. kind of like putting on your bicycle tire on your rim.

Baffle broke off inside the washer

  • Customer: Ted from Highland Park, NJ
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 0 of 0 people found this instruction helpful
You probably won't want to publish this but it worked. The baffle on the GE washer I have required a complete tear down of the machine's front and outer waterproof drum to get a tiny little screw out. Very poor design if you ask me. And, I was not about to pay a technician for a massive overhaul to get a 3/8" long stainless screw off the broken remains of the baffle. So, I measured how far over the screw was from the pipe that feeds detergent, softener and bleach into the drum. I drilled a 3/8" hole in the outer drum. After removing the screw and installing the new baffle (which took all of about 2 minutes), I put a 3/8" hole plug I bought at Lowes into the hole with two part plastic epoxy. Then I covered the entire hole plug with a crown of epoxy. Five minutes later when the epoxy set, I ran a load of clothes. It ran perfectly and did not leak. I know. I know. This is not what you would recommend to your readers but it worked. I was brought up fixing everything around the home and any effectie shortcut was/is used. Oh,by the way, if you know which GE engineer thought up the design for this baffle installation, whack him on the head once.
All Instructions for the WBVH5100H1WW
31-45 of 64