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W30400W Jenn-Air Wall Oven - Instructions

Installation Instructions for parts on models starting with W30400W

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the wall oven repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

Models starting with W30400W

All Instructions for models starting with W30400W
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Oven not holding 350 F, when cooling the coils did not reheat

  • Customer: David from Westford, MA
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 122 of 141 people found this instruction helpful
Removed the oven door by opening slightly, then pic door up to remove. Remove 2 screws holding oven sensor in place, gently pull on sensor to remove, had to remove about 8 inches to get at plastic connector. Unplug connector, had to use an adapter cable supplied with the PartSelect kit to install new sensor, push cable back into opening, reinstall 2 screws. The oven works fine! Note that due to thermal lag the temperature overshoots to 370 degrees and undershoots to 340 degrees, this appears to be normal oven operation. Putting door back in place was easy.

Lost all clock and timer display

  • Customer: John from Kuna, ID
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 79 of 85 people found this instruction helpful
Removed the 4 phillip head screws that hold the trim plate on the bottom of the display panel (and you probably could skip this step).
Next, I removed the knobs from the front of the display panel.
Then I removed the 4 phillip head screws that were located (1 each) behind the knobs.
Finally, I removed the 4 hex head screws from the bottom of the front panel.
You caan then remove the panel a few inches and remove the two cable connectors.
The trick part is to get the flat ribbin cable disconnected. If you squeeze the two small tabs (one on each end of the connector), the connector moves up and spreads open to CAREFULLY remove the ribbon cable.
The clock assembly has just two hex head screws holding it in place. Remove them, and reassemble everything in reverse.
If you did everything correctly, you should have a very bright stove clock again!

F1-1 code

  • Customer: charles from marstons mills, MA
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 55 of 70 people found this instruction helpful
First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the sensor out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires. Next, I connected new sensor and screwed the new sensor back in place. One area for caution. Make sure that the electrical connection is pushed in past the insulation on the back side of the oven. Failure to do so will cause the plastic plug connector to melt from oven heat.

Clock dimmed to very low, oven temp unreadable

  • Customer: Thomas from Moncks Corner, SC
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 40 of 45 people found this instruction helpful
Was about to spend 2000 on new oven and decided to check here. At least 15 stories with same problem and solved. Add one more.

Only thing new to me was ribbon connector. Didn't really pay attention when I disconnected from the old assembly. When you squeeze the ends of the connector, part of the connector itself rises up to release the ribbon cable. Remember this when reinserting the ribbon cable on new assembly. If I hadn't followed the "If you have to force it, it ain't right" rule it could have gone bad.

Oven door wouldn't close completely

  • Customer: William from Statesville, NC
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 39 of 43 people found this instruction helpful
Parts arrived in three days and it was an easy swap of the hinges but the same problem still existed: the oven door wouldn't close completely, so the oven light stayed on and the convection wouldn't work either unless the door closed all the way. The replacement hinge's springs apparently aren't strong enough to close it and the springs aren't adjustable - which is a design flaw. I did correct the problem though, by using three dollars worth of 1" round magnets, which I placed inside the door: they stay put and are strong enough to pull the door tight.

Repeated oven temperature sensor fault codes.

  • Customer: David from Arlington, VA
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 27 of 31 people found this instruction helpful
First I removed the two philips screws inside the oven that hold the element in place. Then I pulled the sensor out and the two insulated wires through the hole to reveal the plastic connector. I unsnapped it from the connector and replaced it with the new element. Then, behind the oven, I removed five or six philips screws on the right side of the large panel so I could pull the wires back through the layer of fiberglass insulation to make sure only the sensor itself would be exposed to the oven's heat. I then secured the back panel again and replaced the two philips screws holding the sensor in place.

Oven door doesn't completely close, light stays on

  • Customer: John from Harvard, MA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 33 of 51 people found this instruction helpful
I replaced the hinges on the door, it wasn't that hard to do, a couple of minor things I had to overcome. But the new hinges still don't close the door completely. The light still comes on. I don't think the springs in the hinges are strong enough.

I asked for a particular part number in my order, the sales rep, said that wasn't the correct part number, and gave me a different part number. Now I'm not sure if the sales rep gave me the correct part or not.

Either way, I spent money for new hinges, and my own labor, and I still have the same problem.

I've placed calls with Jenn-air, and local technicians, but so far, do not have a solution to my problem. So overall, I'm not very happy.

Anyone got any ideas?

Clock and all the readouts went "black". Stove still worked but no visible readouts.

  • Customer: Donald from Sausalito, CA
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
  • 25 of 30 people found this instruction helpful
First I turned off the electricity to the stove.
I then removed the 4 burner dials from the front panel. Then I removed the 8 screws under the front panel. Removed the triangle side pieces - 1 screw each. Slowly pulled the panel down and out and turned it face down so there was easy access to the back of the digital clock. Unscrewed the 2 screws that hold the clock and replaced it. New clock worked perfect. NOTE: Included in the repair - I cleaned and repainted where there was grease and rust.

Oven wouldn't heat the right temperature (you would have to add 100 degrees on to it)

  • Customer: Claudine from Bethlehem, PA
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 22 of 25 people found this instruction helpful
Pulled oven out of the cabinet/wall and pulled sensor out and replaced with new one.

Display Fading to Black - Clock & Oven Temp Unreadable

  • Customer: Robert from Portsmouth, NH
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 18 of 18 people found this instruction helpful
I did this job myself, but it might be handy to have a helper to assist in holding the control panel during unplug and replug stages of the process. Also strongly suggest you read through these and other posted instructions BEFORE getting started.

Kill Circuit Breaker Power To Unit.
Pull Four Burner Control Knobs off front panel.
Unscrew Phillips Head Screws from under each knob. (Be careful not to strip screw heads, I applied pretty firm pressure on screw driver to avoid stripping).
Open Oven door.
Remove 4 Phillips screws on trim piece under control panel and remove trim piece.
Unscrew 1 small Phillips screw on each side of panel to loosen plastic side trim pieces.
Use socket to remove 4 hex head screws holding control panel in place.
Gently pivot control panel top downward to access the circuit board panel. BE VERY CAREFUL NOT TO ALLOW CONTROL PANEL TO HANG BY FRAGILE CONNECTING CABLES!!!
GENTLY unplug the two white connector cables from the board. There is a locking tab on both that you can release with a fingernail or small flathead screwdriver while gently pulling the connector upward. (These connectors snap to lock more easily when you eventually re-assemble to the replacement board).
VERY GENTLY unplug the ribbon cable. This was a bit confusing to me at first, but if you gently squeeze the two very small tabs on both sides of the black connector, you can gently raise the center body of the connector upwards about 1/8 inch. (You might find it helpful to practice how this mechanism functions on your replacement part BEFORE you do the disassembly, it's really pretty simple once you see how it works). This will take the gripping pressure off the ribbon itself and you can gently wiggle the ribbon out free from the connector taking note of the two very small alignment holes in the ribbon connector as you do so.
Now with all cables free use a socket to remove 2 hex head screws holding the circuit board to the control panel.
Now install the replacement board by simply doing all above in reverse. Take care to line up cable connections to the board properly, noting the two alignment holes in the ribbon cable to tabs in the black connector. All three connections should snap in easily without undue force.
Your range display should be good as new.

Oven would not shut down, kept heating

  • Customer: curtis from Paris, IL
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 19 of 22 people found this instruction helpful
The front oven control panel was already in need of replacement. The digital readout had quit working sometime ago, so we began by replacing the control panel as well as the temperature probe. Neither of these items did the trick. Next I replaced the HI/Lo sensor switch. This replacement was a bit more labor intensive. Have to remove several screws and remove a large portion of the top of the stove. Once access is gained to the hi/lo switch, it takes (2) minutes to replace it. This of course did not take care of the problem either. Finally I replaced the bake/broil/convection circuit board. This was a bit of a job, only because of the amount of wires to and from this board. I litterally took a picture of the board (from this web site) and drew in the wires and marked them by color and noted where they went. I then merely unplugged each wire and with one screw, removed the board and installed the new one. After plugging in the wires as per my picture, SUCCESS. The board did the trick. Over all, it was not bad doing the work myself. I know we saved a lot of money my doing it ourselves. Just gotta have patience.

Oven Door hinge is broken

  • Customer: Hugh from Hopewell, NJ
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 18 of 22 people found this instruction helpful
One oven door hinge spring was broken. I ordered two hinges to complete the repair.
The repair could not have been easier. I removed the door from the oven an unscrewed the outer frame of the door from the inner door assembly. I unscrewed the old hinge assembly and replaced them with the two new hinges.
I set the door back on the oven and replaced the oven door retaining hardware.
After replacing the retaining hardware, I removed the temporary shipping pins that keep the spring assembly static. Very important: don’t remove these hinge pins until the door is on the oven an the oven retaining hardware is secured.

element started sparking and caught on fire

  • Customer: AL from TINLEY PARK, IL
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 17 of 20 people found this instruction helpful
turned off breaker for oven,opened door, removed racks,removed two screws,pulled out the element, dis connected wires,reconnected new element,put back screws,replaced racks,turned breaker on,perfect fit.

Constant beeping with error displayed; started during self-cleaning; could not reset

  • Customer: WILLIAM from RICHMOND, TX
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 15 of 16 people found this instruction helpful
Very simple.


Unscrew the (built-in) oven from the wall / cabinet (4 screws). Unscrew the cover in front at top where the LED display is held, and pull it back, then pull two sets of wires off of the LED display PCB, so it can be put aside. Pull the oven out of the cabinet, sit it on a chair (because the 240V power feed metal cable is still attached). Unscrew the 7 1/4th-inch hex head screws holding the metal top cover on; remove the cover, which exposes the wires and sensors, etc. Unscrew the "relay board" PCB (1 screw) and detach it from the side, leaving all wires attached to the terminals. Then, one by one, remove the wires from the old PCB and attach them to the corresponding terminal on the new, replacement PCB. Screw the new PCB back onto the side of the oven top inside, screw the top metal cover back on, attach the wires to the front panel LCD and then screw the front panel back on. Push the oven back into the hole in the cabinet and screw it into the wood on the side and bottom (6 screws total).

Finally, turn the power back on (flip the circuit breaker on). Then observe: your oven is now no longer a digital boat anchor!

The only reason it took me longer than 30 minutes to finish this was that I had to recruit someone to help me lift the oven out of its cabinet. After doing so, however, I realized that I could have done it all by myself, simply by sliding it out onto a box or chair, but I didn't realize that ahead of time. It's not really that very heavy (but I would not recommend anyone who's not strong trying to do it alone, regardless). Anyway, if I had to do it again, it would only take about 10-15 minutes to accomplish.

The part itself colst about $180. When my usually very reasonably-priced appliance repairman quoted a price of $450 to $500 to do this repair, even after I told him specifically which part was obviously bad (which he would have to order or pick it up), I decided that only an idiot would be unable to do this repair by himself.

Oven Door wouldn't fully close and light stayed on.

  • Customer: Jeff from Fremont, CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 15 of 17 people found this instruction helpful
Remove oven door by removing chrome flat plate that holds the hinge in place (one screw at each hinge) and LIFT door off oven. There is a hole in the hinge that you can stick a small nail through to hold the hinge in the "partially open" position for easier removal and replacement of the door (I didn't know this until I received the new hinges, which have a removeable pin in the hole.) After door is off, remove three screws each, on the top and bottom of door, to remove the back half of door and expose the hinges. Remove one screw from bottom of door that holds bottom of hinge in place. Lift out hinge bottom and unhook top of hinge. Reverse process to reassemble. Remove small pins by opening oven door fully. The new hinges did solve the problem. You have to order two hinges for each door. They are NOT sold as pairs.
All Instructions for models starting with W30400W
1-15 of 270