W142 Jenn-Air Wall Oven - Instructions

Parts arrived in three days and it was an easy swap of the hinges but the same problem still existed: the oven door wouldn't close completely, so the oven light stayed on and the convection wouldn't work either unless the door closed all the way. The replacement hinge's springs apparently aren't strong enough to close it and the springs aren't adjustable - which is a design flaw. I did correct the problem though, by using three dollars worth of 1" round magnets, which I placed inside the door: they stay put and are strong enough to pull the door tight.

Unscrewed and pulled the door off and then took the three layers of the door apart in order to clean off the burned-on goop and remove the old and insert the new seal. The last screw was rusted in and the drill stripped it so that it was impossible to remove. I levered the remaining two layers apart, holding them open with screw drivers, and inserted the new seal. Had to be careful with the shaping of the metal core of the seal and the distribution of the sealing fabric. Phew! I saved the screws from each layer separately by taping them to the counter in the order of removal. This made reassembly easier. Getting the door back on was a bit difficult and I needed another pair of hands to help me.

One oven door hinge spring was broken. I ordered two hinges to complete the repair.
The repair could not have been easier. I removed the door from the oven an unscrewed the outer frame of the door from the inner door assembly. I unscrewed the old hinge assembly and replaced them with the two new hinges.
I set the door back on the oven and replaced the oven door retaining hardware.
After replacing the retaining hardware, I removed the temporary shipping pins that keep the spring assembly static. Very important: don’t remove these hinge pins until the door is on the oven an the oven retaining hardware is secured.

Remove oven door by removing chrome flat plate that holds the hinge in place (one screw at each hinge) and LIFT door off oven. There is a hole in the hinge that you can stick a small nail through to hold the hinge in the "partially open" position for easier removal and replacement of the door (I didn't know this until I received the new hinges, which have a removeable pin in the hole.) After door is off, remove three screws each, on the top and bottom of door, to remove the back half of door and expose the hinges. Remove one screw from bottom of door that holds bottom of hinge in place. Lift out hinge bottom and unhook top of hinge. Reverse process to reassemble. Remove small pins by opening oven door fully. The new hinges did solve the problem. You have to order two hinges for each door. They are NOT sold as pairs.

1. Removed screws and detached push on cannectors
2. Removed old element
3. Pushed eclectrial connectors onto new element and attached new element to oven with screws.

Removed the door then the end caps and inner panel then the hinge system and replaced with the one piece new set of hinges and back together done in 30 to 45 minutes The new parts were a perfect replacement.

1.remove the trim around the door (8 screws)
2.remove over glass panel (part with the handle)
Caution; the springs on the door are exactly set for the weight of the door. When we removed the outer glass panel, I almost killed my wife when the door slammed shut.
3.Remove inner metal cover (6-8 screws).some of these screws were baked pretty tight so I used vise grips on their little heads to convince them to get turning.
4. To get the door window out you must also remove the inner enamel baked cover, held on by 5-6 screws from the back. This is also the pieces which holds the door seal in place, so it is a good time to change that as well.
5. After cleaning up all the broken glass from the old window, the new window slides right in - perfect fit!
Reverse the steps to put it all back together.

From the time the glass broke until it was completely repaired took only six days! Pretty amazing for a twenty year old oven.

Older model oven with model number worn off. Photo with the 1" grid made it possible for me to find the right size part.

You only need a phillips head screwdriver to install this seal, but it is a bit tricky to line up the new seal and the fiberglass insulation inside the door, so take your time and make sure everything lines up and is tucked in before tightening the screws. Probably easier to do with 2 people (especially getting the door back on the spring loaded hinges) but I was able to do it solo without too much difficulty.

After searching on the internet for a very long time, we were almost ready to order the screws "blind" (no picture) from Sears for almost $10.oo per screw. Then I stumbled onto this website and found exactly what I was looking for, with a detailed description AND a picture!! Not to mention a price that was two thirds less than Sears..for TWO screws. Now the oven door is secure and we are no longer on our search for the right screws.

I dissasembled the entire door..lots of screws and watch you dont drop the glass pieces...also keep them in order so you dont get confused on what goes where. I cleaned everything nicely and installed the new seal and everything went together perfectly and looks and works like new. I recieved my part by mail very quickly and the price was MUCH better than my local repair shop.

Purchased 2 piece broiler pan from this site

We panicked cause even simple repairs on these products cost and cost.....but we remained calm and ordered the exact part necessary from you. It arrived in just 3 days and once we had the part in hand it was easy to understand how to replace it. We disassembled the door with screwdrive and swapped the broken part with the new one. The one gotcha was that we were not aware of the shipping pin holding the spring and we struggled for a few trying to get the door closed all the way. Once we discovered the pin and removed it, it was fixed and we were PLEASED!

Thank you,
Louise and Rickl

turned off electricity at the circuit breaker.Pulled stove out and looked at the way the control center was attached to the rest of the stove. Removed the knobs and 4 screws and the complete panel could be removed (or pulled out from the oven-wires are still all attached). Then checked with an electric meter to insure the power was off to all the wires. The clock is a self contained unit and all I had to do was to remove 4 screws holding a face plate, replace the unit and reverse the procedure. Only problem I had was getting the screws back into the face plate (I was only able to get 2 threaded-but that will hold for the life of the stove) and put it alll back together. It works wonderfully.

I had a repair company on the phone who said that the service call would be $185 and if I was right about the clock being the problem, that would cost another $345 for the clock and $85 for the return service call to install. I ordered the part from PartSelect .com on Sunday, had it by Thursday and installed that night. My cost was $195 vs approx $600. Why would you do anything else?

I replaced the hinges as described in other posts and the problem was solved. When the oven was 2 years old it had the same problem but the hinges should not have fatigued at that point. The engineering problem someone mentioned is that the pin of the light switch is too short. I touched it with lipstick, closed the oven door, and opened the door to see exactly where the door touched the pin. I drilled a small hole in the door and screwed in a self tapping metal screw...problem solved for 8 years until the hinges fatigued. After replacing the hinges I tried removing the screw but the light stayed on so I put the screw back.

Had to disassemble the top of the stove and the control panel on the front. I took digital pictures as I disassembled so I could refer to them when putting the stove back together, especially when disconnecting wiring. It took about 3 hours, but most of that time was spent thoroughly cleaning 16 years of baked on grease from places that are normally unaccessible. The new latch works great - the wife is happy!