TUD5000Y0 Whirlpool Dishwasher - Instructions

Installed new door seal. Dishwasher still leaked. Googled the model number and then cleaned the filter at the bottom of the dishwasher, still leaked.
Verified that manifold bearing was not work. It was OK.
Found note that a plugged vent might cause leaking door. Very counterintuitive. Pried off air vent cover. Vent was thouroughly plugged with calcium deposts from steam. Cleaned these out.
Dishwasher no longer leaks.

The first thing I did was to investigate. I needed to find where the leak was coming from. It was leaking from just above tne door front panel, directly underneath the control panel buttons. I opened the dishwasher door, and decided to remove the door screen vent. I was covered with some offwhite fiberous, or filter like material. I thought perhaps the filter had broken down, and I ordered a new screen. When it arrived, and, although I had expected to receive a new filter with the plastic door screen, I didn't. There wasn't one to be ordered. I looked at the screen again. My problem was, that although I had considered that the substance I had thought was a filter, was instead build up of detergent, and other particals. That idea didn't seem to make sense. I didn't think it was possible for that stuff to get to the door screen. I thought, it was too far away from the dispenser and food particles. As it turned out, the buildup was, in fact, the problem. I properly cleaned the door vent, which was then fine, and I put it back into the door. There were no more leaks, that was it, and the problem was solved. As a last note however, unfortunatley, I have to return the new door vent screen that I ordered. I enjoyed solving the problem, and you all helped alot. Let's do it again sometime.

I removed the old gasket, installed the new one which took about 20 seconds.Tested the unit, water was still dripping, but in a different fashion.As per a previous poster's instructions I removed the vent cover. (Located inside the dishwasher up high.)I cleaned out the calcium deposits with hot water and a sacraficial toothbrush. "Ta-Da!" Everything is now groovy!Thank you so very much for your excellent service. Your site was easy to use and your shipping was "lightning fast!" Also, the advice you sent me was invaluable. I thank you, my wife thanks you and my trained lobster thanks you too! :)

This repair was very simple. I opened the door of the dishwasher then pulled the old rubber seal (gasket) out; I checked the old gasket to with the new one to ensure the new one was correct then installed the new one. There are two small rubber pieces located in mounting slots below the door gasket that slide out; I slide the old ones out and slide the new ones in. No tools required.
The thing that made the whole job easier was ordering the parts from Parts Select; I couldn't find exactly what I needed on the Whirlpool website but I found exactly what I needed on the Parts Select website and the parts were a perfect match.

After determining that the leak was coming basically from the motor shaft I googled until I thought I could handle it, took it apart to confirm I could get it apart (I thought it might be too stuck and I might need the whole motor thing) and then ordered the kit.

I don't think this could be done with the dishwasher in place, so I turned the water off to the unit and unplugged it. I had previously removed the front bottom cover plates (4 screws). I opened the front, removed the lower dish rack and unscrewed it from the bottom side of the counter, disconnected the water supply and drain line, then wiggled it out being careful of the insulation sheets, hoses, etc. Note, water drains everywhere. I had some baking pans to contain and paper towels to wipe but still, be safe / prepared.

I disconnected everything from the motor / impeller housing area, then went inside the unit and loosened the lock ring thing around the base of whatever you call the spinning arm / sprayer, it took a little effort, might be easier to try this when it is still mounted to the counter. After that main ring was removed the housing with the motor and everything just wiggled free.

I unscrewed the motor's 3 Torx screws, and then the unscrewed the plastic "X" at the end opposite the motor, the brass weight pulls straight off and the impeller is supposed to come off too. Mine was stuck like many I read about. I drilled a hole in the end of the plastic impeller and drove the motor shaft out with a punch and hammer, it worked pretty slick. Then I carefully pried out the last seal and stopped for a cold beverage, major success.

I carefully pushed the new seal into the housing, reattached the motor to the housing, pushed on the other new seals, the impeller, the new brass weight in the same order the old ones were, and screwed on the "X" on the end as snug as I could. Then I carefully reattached the motor and housing to the bottom of the dishwasher, ensuring good solid seals and tightening that big ring again from the inside as snug as I could get it, carefully hooked everything on the bottom back up basically in the reverse of disassembly, put the unit back under the counter, plugged it in, turned the water back on to it, loaded it and tested it. I was fortunate enough to not have it leak anywhere, after 3 or 4 loads I reattached the bottom trim pieces and checked this off my list.
Also, would love to mention that your site is great, the parts were priced attractively, they arrived very quickly and were a snap to install.

Thanks for saving me a ton of money / headaches!

Andy

I took off the bottom 2 plates covering the bottom of the dishwasher. I shut off the power to the unit.There are 2 insulated sleeves with a clamped wire attached to each side of the heater core. I removed the 2 wires and unscrewed the sleeves and lifted out the old heater coil, to install I reversed the process. I found this repair to be a piece of cake, and of course my dishwasher worked like a new one saving me at least $400.00 for a new dishwasher, plus the pain of taking out the old unit and installing the new dishwasher. Thanks for your wide selection of repair parts.

This product comes in a bottle with a brush like Liquid Paper. It goes on incredibly easy. A second coat might be needed. I wanted to prevent rust from setting in so I covered the scratches and dings. The paint is a little brighter since my washer is 10 years old but it still looks great.

Forum was not too helpful diagonsing problem.
Decided to take apart to clean and found all blades broke off impeller.

Use shop vac to suck out water.
Remove agitator inside unit.
Remove dishwasher from wall tip down on door.
Remove pump.
unscrew housing to find impellor.
Carefully put on new impeller.
Clean sealing sufaces,
Reinstall.
Some broken impeller blades were found in agitator.

I disasembled the inner door and replaced the door switches with new ones.

Took me a while to figure out that the bottom plastic strip is all that holds in the panel. Once it is removed , it pulls out easily When the new panel arrived,just slide it up into the top grooove, and push the bottom strip back into its groove. The front looks like new!

I removed inner face of door, cut wires leading to door switches, and then installed the new door switches and wire harness.

Removed dishwasher lower faceplate.
Removed hose clamp at the dishwasher end.
Removed clamp at the garbage-disposal end.
Removed hose.
Pulled new hose.
Connected both ends of the hose.
Installed both clamps.
Tested.

Look at the exploded parts diagram, that parts select provides on their website.

You have to take off the nine star pointed screws. So you need a special screwdriver or I had a socket set of them and I used a ratchet to make it easier. I think there are nine of them around the base of the door. Then remove the door and set it on the counter. Flip it over and there is a small plastic cover that has to be removed from the back of it, and it is easily removed by gently pulling on it.

Now comes the difficult part. There is a locking piece on it that holds the latch onto the door by interlocking with a piece on the back side of the door. I took a pair of wire snips and just cut the old interlocking piece off. This way I didn't have to try and slide the two interlocking pieces apart.

When you go to put the new piece on before you interlock them make sure they are put on right. Specifically the latch is pointing the right way to seal the detergent door. Otherwise it can be a pain to separate the interlocking pieces again. (which is why I cut it off the old one).

Then you're done. Just put it all back together.

Removed screws under counter holding washer in place. Pulled washer out until I could access the back. Turned water supply off (in my case faucet under the sink) Turned power off at breaker.
Disconnected water line and electrical wires noting wire location. Removed solenoid unit by undoing two screws on frame. Installed new unit, connected wires and water. Turned water on to ensure no leaks and pushed washer back under counter. Turned power back on and checked machine operation. Replaced the screws under the counter to keep machine in place. This is very easy. In my area a plumber would charge $75 to do this.

The gasket was a breeze, with just pulling out the old one and slowly pushing in the new in the track with my fingers. The shield was a little harder since there was no instructions before me. It turns out that it fits in the inner door and is used as a baffel for the steam (another problem with leaking out the bottom). After removing the front cosmetic pannel you need to thread the shield inside on three tabs that hold it. It took a few times to orientate it properly but it snaps in when correct. After the front pannel was put on and the unit test operated, the washer no longer leaks. Highly recommend the parts and help from PartSelect and the others before me.