TRT18GRED0 Tappan Refrigerator - Instructions

I used a small screwdriver to disconnect wires from old starter. I connected the overload and starter, two wires. I put the unit back in the keeper, plugged the unit in, turned up the thermostat and it's working beautifully.

This was a simple job. Raised the flap in the back that houses the compressor, removed the wire that holds the relay, pulled out the old relay and pushed the new one on. Replaced wire holder and that was it. Plugged it frig and freezer is at zero and lower compartment at 35. As easy as brushing your teeth!

I located the part that was the culprit as it had buzzed very much before quitting. This is an easy removal as the part is in a two prong jack and just needs to be carefully removed with the new part inserted back in the jack provided. The refrigerator works fine now, but the run capacitor will still buzz on start up of the compressor. I do hope this is normal in this model? anyway it runs fine mow. Thank you.

Popped off the front plastic cover on the bottom of the fridge, under the doors. Two screws held the defrost timer on under the front side of fridge (below freezer door). You can't really see the timer except for the adjustment knob that is accessible through a hole. Once the screws are removed, disconnect the wire plug and remove and replaced unit. Works fine ever since.

Door would not stay closed so I decided to replace the gasket... The new gasket install was easy and quick. I removed the liner and took off the old gasket, placed the new gasket on the liner and reinstalled the liner. However that did not fix the original issue of the door not closing. I followed all the instructions listed on the web site but none corrected the problem. The door on this model has no adjustment. So I adjusted the leveling wheels to tilt off center towards the back. That helped but still did not resolve the problem... I then closed the door slowly to see if it was being interfered with, As it turns out it was being hit by the bottom of the inside of the refrigerator. Since I could not adjust the door, I used the front leveling wheels to compensate for the lack of door adjustment. I slowly kept adjusting the w heels to see what effect it had. I finally adjusted them to the point were the door now closes and seals on its own. I’m guessing that over time the liner became malformed and caused the door to hit the inside of the refrigerator. After it started working I checked the level side to side and front to back. Side to side is good and there is a slight tilt to the rear.

removed back cover from freezer to replace defrost stat. removed cover from refrigerator to replace defrost timer

First, I unplugged the appliance. Safety, first.
Than I removed the shield which was held in by screws. This covered the fan, thermometer.
The defrost thermostat was taken out, with a little extra force. The wires on the defective part were no longer attached to the part. The instructions were easy to follow in replacing the defrost thermostat. I stripped the coating on the wire, attached it with the enclosed electical bugs. The assy was able to follow, and the part went back on. The refrigerator is working perfectly. I couldn't have done it without the help in diagnosing the problem and with the speedy delivery of the new part. Thanks for all your help and the ease of the installing the new part!

took cover off inside freezer control . removed old fan and unpluged wire harness plugged new one up and fastened back in place and put control cover back on.

Make sure unplugged the frig before doing any repair. Just like other DIYers. opened up the evaporator located inside the freezer. Replaced the defrost thermostat, there's only 2 wires, so just make sure which is positive, which is negative. Replaced the defrost timer located on the bottom front of the frig. There's on 2 screws to unscrew. All those work took me less than half hour. Turn on the frig., now it works like a champ again. Hope it will last another 10 years.

Removed the old drawer. Put the front on the drawer which ws a little tricky but with the help of a screw driver to gently pry the drawer the front went on easy.
Put the drawer in the refrigerator.

Just like that.

I secured the power to the fridge. I took the metal panel which covers the cooling coils in the freezer off by removing the the 6 sheet metal screws. I used a standard hair dryer to melt the ice block which had formed due to the failure of the defrost timer. I replace the defrost timer, which was located behind the left front wheel of the unit. Finding the timer was the hardest part of the job. Since I was having trouble with the defrost cycle I also decided to replace the defrost thermostat due to its age. The most important item I would like to share is once all the work is done and the panel is back in the freezer, the power is restored take a straight slot screw driver and give the defrost timer about an eighth of a turn clockwise to ensure it starts. Then mark it with a sharpe and check it in 3 or 4 hours to make sure it is running. I did not do this on the one I installed and the freezer did not go into the defrost cycle. Once I got the timer started, well the ice cream stay frozen. BE SURE NOT TO WORK ON YOUR EQUIPMENT WITH IT PLUGGED INTO POWER SOURCE!!!

Jim

just took the back cover of the freezer of and then the fan. To do this, I just removed like four bolts at the corners and then four bolts that attached the fan to the cover. At the end, I just unplugged the cables. I got my new fan the very next day, which was like extremly fast, plug in the cables and attached the fan to the cover and then attached the cover to the original place. It's a pretty simple repair. My fridge is now working like it should be.

Like another post, the start relay rattled like a baby rattle. Replaced the start relay and freezer works great.

Simple switch repair: Unplug fridge, pull down to remove switch assembly, slip contacts off. Reverse with replacement switch. HOWEVER, check first to see if the bulb filament might be broken, as this could cause the same symptom. OR in my case, the light socket connection was the culprit. Check that too before ordering a replacement switch.

The site offers a video for this part which worked perfectly. In addition to replacing the part, since the cardboard panel was off, we also cleaned all the dust off of the coils which someone recommended to do annually.