TFU16F7BW0 Tappan Freezer - Instructions

I located the part that was the culprit as it had buzzed very much before quitting. This is an easy removal as the part is in a two prong jack and just needs to be carefully removed with the new part inserted back in the jack provided. The refrigerator works fine now, but the run capacitor will still buzz on start up of the compressor. I do hope this is normal in this model? anyway it runs fine mow. Thank you.

Removed two screws and wire harness from old motor. Put in new motor and connected wire harness.

Had to drag the full freezer out from the wall to expose the name plate, got the Model # and S/N and found the key on the partselect website in minutes. It was cheap so I got two. Other than FEDEX not knowing my address correctly, when I finally got the key it worked fine. Not a problem anymore.
Thanks

Looking on-line at your diagnostic for this problem, I saw the most common part to cause this problem was the start capacitor, so I purchased one & installed it with no positive outcome. I then purchased the next recommended part which was a defrost timer & installed it with no run again. Frustrated, I looked at another diagnostic web site that claimed 90% of the time the problem is caused by the cold control thermostat. I tested mine and it tested bad, so I bought a control elsewhere, since your site did not list a PN for that device. I installed the new control and the freezer started up correctly. Looking at the wiring diagram for these parts, I see the start capacitor and defrost control are downstream of the cold control thermostat, and to my mind should have been the first part recommended for testing versus the parts I bought, so I am somewhat disappointed in the diagnostics on your site, where I spent about $80 for parts that were functional.

My issue was water leaking from the door. I thought it was the gasket, so I removed the gasket and the entire panel off of the door. There was water behind it that had soaked the cardboard seal, so I left that front part off for over a week to let it dry. We determined between us and our two toddlers that perhaps the door hadn't been properly closed enough on a number of occasions, so before I bought a $100 gasket, I'd try making sure the door was shut with tape, turning the freezer on and seeing what happened. There was no water after a few days, so on another user's suggestion I purchased the $15 key and twist tied it to the freezer door. Now I am locking the door after use so we won't have leaking water any longer.

Like another post, the start relay rattled like a baby rattle. Replaced the start relay and freezer works great.

Simple switch repair: Unplug fridge, pull down to remove switch assembly, slip contacts off. Reverse with replacement switch. HOWEVER, check first to see if the bulb filament might be broken, as this could cause the same symptom. OR in my case, the light socket connection was the culprit. Check that too before ordering a replacement switch.

The site offers a video for this part which worked perfectly. In addition to replacing the part, since the cardboard panel was off, we also cleaned all the dust off of the coils which someone recommended to do annually.

i looked byhind the freezer , the mottor has the relay connected to it.i took out the relay, and i descovery something was loose inside, i decided to take to check out at sears to see if they have in stock that especific relay. they did not have, they could order, that's when i dicided to go ahead and looking for in the internet, good i found PARTSELECT,they had the part and i was very nice attended,they sent in 2 days i had fix my freezer. thanks PARTSELECT. gilmar couto.

The repair was really easy - I used a phillips head screw driver to remove the screws and broken pieces of the handle, screwed the new one on and snapped the handle insert into place. I was thrilled to be able to find the parts so easily (the information you have online is really helpful!), the parts arrived much faster than I anticipated and the handle was easily replaced! Thank you!

Replaced defrost thermostat and defrost timer on my commercial Kelvinator freezer. Took out screws inside freezer compartment that hold panel at top inside freezer.Once the screws were removed I pulled out the thermostat dial so the panel was free to drop down and expose coils to the freezer that were located in the top rear of the inside freezer compartment.The defrost thermostat was located on the top of the coil to the top left as you face the inside of the Kelvinator KFS220RHY1 freezer. Very easy unplug old and plug in new defrost thermostat. Also replaced timer located in the back side of the freezer down near the middle of the bottom of the freezer near the compressor. There were two nuts holding the timer in the back of the freezer once I took those out I just unplugged the old timer and plugged the new timer in ....very simple fix. I have only run my freezer for a week since I replaced both parts but so far all is working well.

Removed the old defrost timer by removing 4 screws on the holding bracket. Disconnected the wire harness. Reconnected the wire harness to the new part. Installed the new part with 2 screws on the top of the molded bracket. I am a 67 year old woman... easy-peasy. (the defost timer is located in the bottom left rear of the freezer.

I order another one thanks

After removing the key from its shipping package I pushed it into the freezer locking slot and turned it to lock and unlock the lid and then removed it. I had no problems with this fix. Of course, I am an older gentleman with a lot of experience in repairs around my house,as well as other houses. I am sure that a less experienced person may have more of problem with this type of "repair".

installed new handle