SWSG1031HS0 Westinghouse Washer Dryer Combo - Instructions

first i used a flathead to lift up the top of the dryer. there were two prongs that you press in to detach the top.

then there were two screws on the inside along each side that i needed a phillips to remove. one screw on each side.

i also needed to detach a cable and cut the tie.
from there, it was easy to pull off the front of the dryer.

the first noticeable thing was HOW much lint there was inside! so out came the vacuum and away went all the dust and lint.. a TON of it.

then i used a sharp knife to remove all the existing upper and lower felt. that took awhile, and i got as much as i could.

then i applied the TOP felt, nice and center, and from there, the FELT was applied, which fit perfectly. I let it dry/set for about 2 hours.

for the Front drum glide, AN IMPORTANT NOTE! i ordered only ONE drum glide, but you need TWO! I had to order a second one, and i dont know why they dont come in pairs.. so the front drum glides snap on pretty easily to the front of the drum. press hard and they SNAP into place. once they are snapped on, you just put back on the front, replace the screws, re-connect and re-tie the cable, and close the lid!

Once I figured out that it would not spin because it did not drain. Unplug machine and remove the back pannel. Locate the drain pump on the bottom of machine. Remove the power wires and the screws holding it to the bottom. Then use a pliers to remove the hose clamps ( was easer for me to tip the machine forward ). Be prepaired to catch or soak up extra water from lines. The hardest part to the install is the limited room you have to work with. Install screws to hold the pump in place then install water lines, power wires and back pannel. Only thing left is to plug it in and watch for leaks.

I removed the bolt holding the agitator in the tub and lifted the agitator out. There seemed to be a part near the top that was not engaging. I decided to order a replacement to see if that was the problem (my local repairman had guessed the problem was in the transmission and said I should just replace the machine.) I ordered the part online and it arrived in only two days. I was very happily surprised by the speed with which I received the part. I put the new agitator in, tightened the bolt and ran a load of clothes. All worked perfectly

First pry up on the front edge of the top panel of the dryer which is held in place by snap in clips. Pivot the top open and support against wall or other taking care not to pull on wiring harness. Next remove the 2 screws that hold the front panel in place. These are located on the inside of the front panel. The front then snaps loose also. Remove the plastic drum stop located at the top edge of the front of the dryer. Next I removed the 3 drum screws located inside at the back center of the dryer. Next you can you need to remove the belt the motor located at the rear vent panel on the back. Slide the now loose drum out exposing the rear bearing. With a 5/16 end wrench, loosen the 2 screws on either side of the bearing retainer. Assemble the new bearing bracket to match the old one. Apply a liberal amount of supplied lubricant to the pivot ball and plastic retainer. At this point it was helpful to have someone at the rear of the dryer hold the new retainer bracket against the back of the dryer while I tightened the new bearing assembly in. Assemble dryer in reverse.

Received lid lock within 24 hours, fixed washer within 10 minutes...up and running. Thanks.

First I removed the front panel,then set the timer to run. It began the drain,spin cycle, pump ran, but no water went out. Shop-vac the water out,removed hoses from pump,took out mounting screws from base, unplug pump plug. check hoses for debris since they're open, the impeller was broken. ordered the part . Mount the pump to the base, put the hoses on, plug in motor and replace front panel. plug into wall

Removed 2 screws at bottom of the front panel - removed front panel by sliding the panel down about 1/2 inch and then away from the appliance- v belt is removed by pushing the tensioner pulley to remove tension from the belt and turning the pulley untill the belt is removed instalation is a simple reverse of the process. I did't have a repair manual so every step was trial and error untill I was able to complete the repair.

First I took sides off the washer. I then took screws out of the Drain pump holder. Unclamped the two pipes from it. Undid the wires to then drain pump. Screw in the new pump hardware. Plugged in the wires on side of the pump. Reclamped the pipes. Put sides back on washer and it worked. That easy and took less then 30 minutes. I am no handy man so thats how easty it was.

I read the others repair story and it was a easy repair, my wife had a repairman come out and check it already, he stated to her that it was a major repair and that he needed to take it to the shop for repair, well he was full of sh##!!! The unit is a stackable washer dryer,if the screws inside the drum backout, the belt comes off and caused mine to brake the belt,my wife found the 2 small screws in the bottom of the tub,theres a small cover on the back that you remove and you can see belt drive pully! Follow the directions that have been explained on others listed it"s easy!!! Mike

I got online and figured out exactly how to take off the front of the washer and then how to replace the belt. It was so easy. The part itself arrived much sooner than predicted. It fit perfectly and my washing machine is now running smoothly and quietly.

Make Sure Dryer is off and disconnected from power! Also, beware of sharp edges on dryer parts and cabinet.
1) Popped-off top lid with flat-blade screw driver (Insert screw driver in joint between top and front of dryer above door) Spring clips are all that's holding top on in front
2) Unplugged plastic electrical connector located just along the top-right side of dryer
3) Removed one sheet metal screw located about 8" down from top on either side of dryer - total of two screws
4) Pull front of dryer back and pull up at bottom of dryer (Remember that when you replace front you will have to make sure plastic bearing surfaces on dryer tub are centered back in cut-out on front panel. Plastic tabs fit inside the cut-out or else you'll ge a swishing noise when tub rotates)
5) Set front panel to side
6) Flame sensor is located on the left side of the burn chamber sheet metal cover. It has a red and white wire with flat connectors that must be pulled off. Note which color goes to what terminal
7) Unscrew fastener. Note: this screw/fastener needs a non-standard driver to get it out. I have a variety of other drivers beyond phillips/flat types and non of them worked.
8) I ended up using a pair of pliers to just work it out from under the screw. I bent it, as it has a tab that slips in along left bottom edge of burn chamber cover.
9) Finish taking screw out by hand
10) Put new flame sensor in by inserting tab on bottom first. Then, screw in fastener to top of sensor bracket and reconnect wires. White on top and red on bottom terminal.
11) Replace front panel with door by placing in tabs on bottom front of dryer. Again, make sure plastic bearing surfaces are inside of circular flange on front panel
12) Make sure to reconnect plastic cable connector. Note: I added a tie-wrap because it looked like the connector might rub against drum. There are some holes through which you can run the tie-wrap
13) Replace the two sheet-metal screws
14) Push top down so spring clips re-engage with dryer body

My washing machine stopped agitating and spinning and I couldn't afford a repair man...plus I wanted to exhaust any obvious problems first. One of the leveler feet had broken years ago. Since I luckily had determined via reading other posts that the agitator won't work if the cycle safety switch is not functioning right, I thought the safety switch might need to be changed but after careful thought, I decided to order a new levelling leg first because maybe the broken levelling leg was shaking the safety switch so it wasn't connecting right. Once I received the leg overnight, I flipped the washer on its side and had to drill out the old leg. It was a little tricky because of how it broke, but the drill worked. I flipped the washer back up, leveled it with the new foot, and the agitator was miraculously working again...just like new. I didn't need the safety switch. Thanks to partselect.com for having the details of my washer parts to study up on and get me the right part so quickly. I saved myself alot of money.

After moving machine to an area that allowed easy access to the unit, disconnected the water supply hoses from the inlet valve.
Removed the two screws that keep the back in place, removed the clips that keep the top in place, moved the top over far enough to get the valve out. Removed the screw that keeps the inlet valve in place, disconnected the power supply to the valve, Pulled valve out in order to remove the water outlet hose. Repalced with new vale, and reversed order to install. Works just fine now.

Checked problem on-line and discovered it was the water inlet valve. Matched the part on part select. Com. Finding the part was very easy. Part select had a grid behind the picture to help determine the size and pictures from all sides. Removing the old part, matching it, and replacement took a total of 30 minutes. I now have clean clothes.

unplugged the dryer, discontected the sensor and unscrewed the bracket, replaced the new one and put the connectors back on, screwed the bracket back on and that was it. Very easy fix for a female who does not do much of these sort of repairs but learning.