This an authentic OEM 40-Watt replacement light bulb, used in a number of household appliances. It is specially designed to withstand extreme temperatures, which is why these replacement bulbs are mos...
This filter is made of metal and is intended for use with ranges and cooktops. Grease filters are an important but often neglected part of ranges. If the filter is full, your extractor fan will become...
This long oven sensor is also commonly known as a temperature sensor. It is designed for use with ovens and ranges. It is similar to a thermostat; it measures and regulates the internal temperature of...
This surface burner switch, also known as an infinite switch, controls and regulates the heat output of the burners on a stovetop. The user simply adjusts the knob on the user interface panel, which i...
This door strike is less than an inch long. It is all white in color and it is made entirely of plastic. The door strike fits on the inside of your range and is the locking mechanism that latches to t...
This oven control board and clock is for ranges.
Oven control board and clock monitors the oven temperature and controls the oven heating functions in the range, and includes the digital display fo...
This is a multi-use and multi-appliance screw. It can be used on a microwave, refrigerator, range/oven, air conditioner, dehumidifier, washer, or dryer. The measurements of this screw are 8 x 1/2 inch...
This is cookware designed for use in your range or oven. It is a two-piece dish that is used to grill or cook food while the broil function is on, meaning it can withstand high temperatures. This set ...
The oven rack provides a stable surface for cookware inside the oven. Sold individually.
$85.22
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Mildred
December 23, 2019
Why isn't my oven light coming on
For model number SVE47600B
Hello Mildred and thank you for writing.
Use a multimeter to test for power to the light socket. If the light socket is getting power, but the oven light won't work, this indicates that the light socket is defective. ... If this button is defective, the touchpad won't signal the oven control board to turn on the oven light. We hope this helps. Please contact us anytime.
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Paul
September 17, 2021
My broil element comes on when over set to normal cooking temperatures.I have replaced the sensor & clock. Now i was told to replace the actual broil element. It measures 1.5 ohms and a new element measures the same, so i do not think the broil element is defective. Something eles is causing it to come on. I am thinking i have a defective sensor. What else could it be ?
For model number SVE47600B
Hello Paul, thank you for writing. The first thing it sounds like is the Control Board PartSelect Number PS11743858. If this was already switched out, then try the Long Oven Sensor PartSelect Number PS1570174. We have attached a video for instructions. Good luck with your repair.
Hi Larry,
Thank you for your question. The electronic control board is located behind the control panel, in the center, where the display is located. I hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day!
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Removed the oven door by opening slightly, then pic door up to remove. Remove 2 screws holding oven sensor in place, gently pull on sensor to remove, had to remove about 8 inches to get at plastic connector. Unplug connector, had to use an adapter cable supplied with the PartSelect kit to install new sensor, push cable back into opening,
... Read morereinstall 2 screws. The oven works fine! Note that due to thermal lag the temperature overshoots to 370 degrees and undershoots to 340 degrees, this appears to be normal oven operation. Putting door back in place was easy.
1. Killed power and removed the regulator's knob, noted the position of the old control. 2. Took off the cover for the center vent and loosened the two screw holding the housing in place--the screws didn't have to come out completely as it is a U-shaped friction hold. 3. Unscrewed the two screws holding the old control switch in
... Read more place--lifted the housing enough to get at the old switch and carefully pulled it loose--it was a front burner so the control switch was about as far back as it could be but still wasn't that hard to get at. 4. Turned the new switch to orient the wire connectors, then, using a needle-nose pliers, removed each friction connector, one at a time, and fitted them on the new switch (note: one of the wires fitted best if it went under as opposed to around the base of the new switch). 5. Replaced the control back through the housing and screwed it in place, making sure the orientation of the control matched the way it looked originally. 6. Slide the housing back over the two screws and tightened, replace vent. 7. Replaced the knob and turned on the power.
(The above took me about twice as long to write as it did to make the repair and I write professionally but am not a professional electrician.)
Also, I bought a second control switch because, given the age of the unit, I'm sure another one will go. The second one will assure that it won't happen :-).