SVE47600B Jenn-Air Range - Instructions

After turning off the circuit to the oven, I first removed the 6 exterior screws holding the upper unit that houses the clock element, then I disconnected the three wiring connectors. The difficult one is the ribbon connector. You must push in the two clips on the end and then raise one side of the connector in order to have it release the ribbon. then I removed the 4 screws that hold the element. You then just put the new one on in reverse of removing the old one. It works great. This could be made easier if each new unit came with visual picture instructions for removing the ribbon cable connector. I read all 14 previous customer reviews or stories, before I found one nice guy that described the proper method of removing this ribbon. Thanks

The door seal was an exact fit for the factory one. There are little clips that hold the seal to the door. The clips are already installed in the seal. To remove just grasp the seal at each clip and pull up. The seal comes off easily. The ends of the seal are tucked into holes at the bottom of the door so you can just pull them out. For the installation of the new seal grasp the seal at each clip and push them into the littles holes. I used a flat blade screwdriver to tuck the seal ends into the two larger holes at the door bottom. The whole process took about 10 minutes.

I wouldn't have changed the seal but the hot lasagna made the seal sort of hard after it cooled off.

unplugged oven. removed 2 screws that hold the sensor in place, then removed the dozen or so screws that hold on the rear panel, unplugged sensor and fed wire through insulation. identified and installed correct harness adapter then fed new wire and connecter through insulation and connected to adapter. installed sensor retaining screws.plugged oven back in and tested function.no dice. unplugged oven once again. removed oven control panel and upon inspection of printed circuit board discovered 3 solder joints had failed. dang. resoldered failed joints and also sweetened up a few others that looked suspect. reinstalled controller, replaced all retaining hardware, and plugged in the oven. tah-dah!! works like a charm now. moral of the story is check the pc board first and save $50 for unneeded pats!!! or buy the controller from parts direct for $260ish. btw a roll of solder and soldering iron from an auto parts store cost around $10, learned to solder on you-tube $0. amazing all the home appliances yo can fix if you're not afraid to take a few screws out and poke around a bit. CHEERS!

Had estimates of $ 500.00+ to replace clock assembly. Purchased it at parts select for approx $ 200.00 and put it in myself. Will pocket the $ 300.00. Thanks. Turn breaker to stove off. Removed four screws underneath front panel. Must open oven door to access screws. Tilted the panel out from the bottom allowing the top of the panel to come out. Had to remove the two knobs on either side of the clock along with the clock knobs. When the two knobs on the side are removed it releases the mounting brackets for the clock inside the panel. Replaced clock assembly wires one at a time. Reassembled in reverse procedure.

First I turned the power off to the stove at the breaker box. I opened the oven door and took off the four hex head screws holding the face panel on. There are four philips screws holding a trim piece on the panel that does not need to be removed and the two end caps do not need to be removed either. I pulled the panel out and tipped it up so I could access the clock display unit. There are two wiring harness clips that unplugged very easily. The ribbon connector is a little more tricky. You have to slide up two clips on the end and then slide up a section going across the ribbon. It's very easy, just don't try to pull the ribbon out without undoing the clips. The display unit was held on with two hex head screws. I removed them, attatched the new one and put it back together. I then turned the oven back on to see if it worked. The display worked perfectly but, the oven would still not get hot on bake. I turned the breaker off again and removed the shelves in the oven. I then removed the two phillips screws holding the bottom bake burner in and pulled it out until I could access the clips. I pulled off the clips and checked the burner for continuity. There was none so I ordered a new bake burner. The new burner showed up the next day and I hooked it up in about 5 minutes. The oven works great and I couldn't be happier with the experience I had with partselect.com

Simple plug in.

Very easy. 1. Turn off power to oven. 2 move the adjustable grills out to gain better access. 3. There are two phillips head screws that hold a bracket to the back of the inside oven. Unscrew both screws. 4 pull the bake element out about 6". This exposes the two electrical connections. 5. Use a plier and wiggle the slide on connector off of the old bake element. 6. With your fingers, slip the old connectors onto the new bake element. 7. Slide the element and wires back in the insulated pocket. 8. Screw both screws back in. 9. Turn on power and make your wife back you chocolate chip cookies just to "test". Sit in an easy chair and enjoy your cookies. If this took longer than 30 minutes inclding baking the cookies, it took you too long. If the cookies are not good, replace the wife. May take a little loger though :)

Removed the ice brucket,
Removed the light shield by releasing one screw using a nutdriver.
Replacing the bulb and reinstalled the light shield.

Your web site is one of the best and most helpfull service sites I ever used. Just wish that in the future you will ship parts overseas.

The range had to be pulled away from the wall to access all of the retaining screws. Once all the screws were removed, the top was easily lifted away, allowing easy access to the clock unit. Three wire connectors were also easily disconnected, and the clock was secured by only two accessible screws. Reassembly was straight-forward; the only difficult, and time-consuming part was sliding the range back against the wall, as tolerances were tight. The repair took 45-60 minutes and the clock shines brightly!

Turned off the breaker to the stove and removed the 4 screws under the control panel. The trim strip and the end caps did not have to be removed. The control panel was lowered just enough to clear the upper edge and then tilted forward so the connectors could be disconnected. Two screws holding the display in place were removed and the new display swapped out. Reassembly was disassembly in reverse. (My wife appreciates having a bright display again.)

The repair for the glass on the inner door of the oven was very straight forward and easy. All I did was remove the door from the oven and then systematically took apart the door. I did not have any schematics, but if you just look at it you can figure out what you need to do. Once apart I had to use pliers to bend the metal that was holding the glass in place and then I simply installed the new one and put everything back together. The whole process took maybe 20-45 minutes from start to finish. Now I can bake a Turkey for Thanksgiving...YEAH!!

Unplugged and removed the old grill element by hand and installed the replacement element by plugging it into the socket. Tools were not required for this and it took less than five minutes. The new element is great and heats much better than the original did before it broke.

I removed the screws holding on the door trim.
I removed several parts I didn't need to remove.
I finally figured out which screws and bolts were really holding the piece I needed to replace. I replaced the broken glass with the new glass, put everything back together and fortunately had no extra parts to throw away.

I hope I don't have to purchase many more of the $11.25 plastic knobs for the range top controls.

I had a service guy come in and he told me the repair would be $550.00. I asked for a part list and did it myself. You guys saved me hundreds of dollars.

1. Remove four screws on metal panel between top and lower oven doors. Pull the panel forward. You may need to open the top door partially to ease removal of panel.
2. Reach behind panel and unplug wire connector from old switch.
3. With panel free, squeeze ears on old switch and push through opening to remove.
4. Insert new switch in to hole and push from front to seat the switch. BE CAREFUL NOT to mess with the ears--if you try to splay them out (to better seat the switch) the switch will come apart.
5. Hold the panel up to opening to connect the wire harness to the switch.
6. Realign the metal plate to holes for screws and insert screws. (You may have to twist and turn to get the panel lined up.)
Done!