SVE47600B Jenn-Air Range - Instructions

First I removed the two screws that hold the bake element. I then pulled it out far enough to disconnect the two wires, and reversed the process to connect and secure the new element. I then removed the screws located under the control panel that held it in place. I removed the wiring, 3 cable connections, from the clock circuit board, and the two screws holding it in place. I installed the new circuit board, and reconnected the wiring, and returned the control panel to its place. The wife was upset that she had offered to do some of my chores while I fixed the oven when she found that it had only taken me 10 minutes to make the repairs. The parts were a perfect match, and the job couldn't have gone any smoother.

Removed the two screws holding the element in place. I then pulled the element and wiring out until I saw the connecter. I disconnected the two wires and then chose the correct connector from the package, snapped it back into place, put the screws back, turned on the breaker then tested the oven and found that everything was working correctly.
This is the second time I have ordered from Part Select, the first time was for a front LED panel on the same appliance. With the help finding the part you need and the comments from other customers I have saved a lot of money by repairing these problems myself. Oh, and the best part is the look on my husband's face when he came home and found out the repairs were made by me and not a repairman that he said I should call. He said he would laugh when the first repair by me didn't work but who's laughing now : )

As the video described I just unscrewed the sensor from inside the oven. Although I couldn't pull the wiring harness through the insulation (the wires were gathered in back with a wire tie) just four screws to loosen the back panel for access to the connection. My wife says it seems to be heating perfectly now.

I was told by appliance repairman that sensor and electronic panel were out - so ordered both as PartSelect was less expensive (about 1/2) than service call price. Sensor was in stock and arrived in 2 days, panel was special order from factory.
Replaced the sensor. Pressed Control Lock pad for several seconds and oven clock came on. Was able to set baking temp, broiler, and convection operation as normal.
Canceled order on panel as Sensor fixed my problem.

Removed the door saftey plates lifted the door out of the hinge pockets, took the door to my work bench, removed six phillips screws which keeps the door glass cover in place, removed two screws form each hinge removed the old hinges put new ones back in place and reversed the disassembly procedure all in all about twenty five minutes.

replaced broiler element - still would not heat.
Called repairman and the control panel is out and will cost around 200.00 to replace. To replace the element, my son helped as my arms weren't long enough. Removed two screws at back and two screws on front of broiler brace. Pulled out and removed wires and hooked them to the new element. Had to turn off circuit breaker. Pushed element back into the holes and replaced screws.
In this instance, it would have been cheaper had I just called the repairman first. However, I have an extra broiler element in case it goes out again.

The problem was easy to find since the board had caught fire and you could tell which board was bad. I had to remove the protecting jacket. Then removed two screws. I disconnected and reconnected the wires one at a time so I could tell where they went.
The hardest part was pulling the stove out and cleaning the dust and split food.

Diagnosis is the important aspect. Ovens have plunger-type switches to tell the "brain" door is closed, both for the light AND to allow initiation of self cleaning. Finally discovered one of those switches was "scratchy" in operation and unreliable in closing the circuit. (Push the plungers in and out several times and observe the light.) If not 100% reliable, replace that switch (cheap and easy with a Phillips screwdriver.) Initial guess was a $major "brain"-electronics problem but it was merely a sticky switch. Strange since the unit is about a year and a half old and rarely used. Found the part easily with PartSelect, and it came via UPS quickly.

The F7 code meant that a button was stuck. I removed the 4 front panel knobs then removed the 8 screws that held the stovetop controllers. Then I carefully removed the ribbon cable from the display assembly. I then reassembled the in reverse order on the new part.

SHUT OFF BREAKER FOR OVEN! pulled oven out to get at backside,removed 3 screws on back coverplate,removed 2 screws inside oven at sensor in top left corner of oven,disconnected plastic clip at back ,pulled old sensor through hole.replaced sensor with new in reverse order. 15minutes tops.

I screwed the light lens into the socket and went beautifully. Better than the original. (I am a retired, 75 yr. old woman).

After removing the protective panel from the back, I used one of those screw holes to hold the new mother board right next to the existing one. I unplugged one connection & and plugged in to the new board. A couple of the wires didn't reach, but I committed those to memory. It looks a lot more intimadating than it is. It looks like a bunch of spaghetti, but its easier than it looks and it saved me at least $750

Removed 4 screws holding trim panel in place. Removed 4 screws on underside of clock panel

Pulled panel out slightly and disconnected the 2 electrical strips

Removed 2 screws holding clock assembly

Disconnected the ribbon circuit tape-push down on the holder tabs and simultaneously pull up gently on trhe ribbon.

Connect ribbon to new unit. Screw unit to panel.
Reconnect electrical strips and reinstall in reverse of disassembly.

Very easy to accomplish

The first thing I did was to turn off all of the power to the range. Then, I removed all of the screws and unhooked the front panel from the range. Then, I rolled the front panel upside down to get access to the wires. I then proceeded to disconnect all of the wires. After that, I removed the circuit board from the panel. Obviously, I just had to reverse the procedure to install the new circuit board. It was one of the easiest jobs I have had to do.

The contact spades were burned from 10+ years of use and the cook top module was worn. I disassembled the module, taped the top to protect the creamic cook top, sanded the metal and spray painted to restore the original white finish. On the bottom half I replaced one missing pop rivet and cleaned and spray painted the bottom to restore to the original black. When the contact spades arrived, I replaced the contact spades and reassembled the module. It now works and looks like it did when it was new.