STF2940HS0 Westinghouse Washer - Instructions

Put machine on dolly. Tilted it on its back. Put screw driver into sheared leg and unscrewed broken leveling leg. Then screwed new leg in and tilted machine back up.

Removed and replaced two screws.

the work is simple, its getting it done. The pins that hold the shocks in are very hard to get to and no room to swing a hammer. I had to use a C- clamp on the left upper in and it was no picnic. The washer in the video was a little different than mine.

Screwed the new part back into place.

This repair was pretty simple. Unplug washer from electrical outlet and remove hoses. This is a good time to replace the hoses. Removed two screws at the back of the washer to remove the top of the washer. This exposed the faulty valve assembly. Disconnect the three connections. There are two screws holding this part in place. The top one is easy to remove, the bottom one is a little more difficult due to access. Remove plastic retainer plate on back of washer. Remove faulty valve assembly. There are two rubber grommets/gaskets that will need to be removed from the faulty part and installed on the new part. Slide new assembly into place. Secure with the two screws. Replace retainer plate. Reattach power connections. Reattach hoses and finally Reinstall top of washer. Total time was right around 30 minutes.

Watched the video on website and followed what they said. Worked great.

New part installed as per repair video - no problems.

"Instructions" with the kit suggest pulling the pins out with a pair of pliers. That's fine if you're a gorilla. It's easier to use a 13MM boxed-end wrench. Slip it over the tapered end to depress the locking tab; then tap a 3/8 dowel rod held against the tapered end to remove the pin. Also my washer has a drain tube that has to be disconnected to get access to the top pin. If I had to do this again it would take about an hour.

First unplug the machine, then remove two srews on the back of the machine for the top cover. Remove top cover and then remove two srews that hold the door locking part. Put your hand in the machine and grab the part. unplug the three wire harnessess then plug them back and put back in place and put the two srews back and then the top cover and two srews as well.

With breakdown maual, I diassembled the door and reinstalled the glass and rehung the door and closed it. Turned on the machine and the bottom of the glass does not meet the rubber seal on the washer opening.

For some time, our washer's door was vibrating and making noise during the spin cycles. Then after washing a large blanket, the drum stopped spinning all together. I was able to slide the top of the washer off after undoing the screws in the back and then following the directions, found that the error code was for the washer door. The drum would not spin because it thought that the door was open, confirming what we thought, the door lock and switch assembly were bad.
I was able to unscrew the assembly from the front, then reach down and after ordering the new part, disconnect the 3 cables, remove the old part then redo the cables on the new assembly and Voila...working washer, woo hoo!

It was a very easy fix. Called a repairman and they wanted 350.00 to come out. Ordered the door lock and switch assembly for 76.00 and it was fixed in 15 minutes. Thank you for shipping the part so fast. Much appreciated.

As others have mentioned, it was pretty straight forward although a bit finicky to get into the tight spots to press out the pins. The little piece of 1x4 block helped press the pins back in. For the right side shock, I had to undo the large rubber hose at the bottom of the drum and also had to remove the sheet metal shield in the back to allow clearance for the pin to come out. There's only 2 screws holding it in so again, not too hard to do.

Removed front panel, used socket to compress lock tab on plastic pins holding shocks. Still taks a little effort to get them out. The one behind a plastic drain canister is a proble as there doesn't seem to be a good method for moving that canister. I think that's why the spare pin is provided.

Sadly, my case was one of the lower percentage where the problem is in the rear bearing area. The shocks were, the top support springs were good but the rear of the washer drum was shot. Opted to replace with new washer rather than go through the much longer repair with the almost $300 in parts.

First I removed the two screws that hold the part in place. I then pulled the part out about 3 inches and disconnected the three wires from the part and put the new one in