SF385PEEQ0 Whirlpool Range - Instructions

Since it fell out, we didn't know how to put it back in--after several hours of frustration, thinking the glass was too big--we went to appliance store and looked at a stove and found out the glass went on the outside with only a groove and handle holding it in place. After that, it took about 30 minutes to complete.

I turned off the breaker (I'm a little nervous even unplugging a 220 plug). I first removed the cover from the back of the stove to get to the wiring/socket. Removed the two wires from the leads - they just pull off by hand but use a needlenose pilers if it is stuck. One is larger so no need to try to remember which one goes where. I removed the glass cover and bulb from inside the oven. I read another post on this site that said there were clips that you had to press to get the old socket out which helped. That part was a little tricky as the insulation around the socket makes it hard to see and the opening is really tight. I finally found the clips and pressed one then got that side out enough to hold the clip back then pressed the other clip and I was able to push it right out. I did not have the strength to press both clips with enough pressure but if you do, that would probably be easier. From inside the oven, I pushed the new socket through the hole - there was a little notch in the opening that had to match up with the socket. I had to push pretty firmly until I felt both clips snap in place. Replaced the wires, turned on the power, screwed in the bulb and cover and I had light!

The repair was easy. I had to remove the trim on the other side and the bottom. You slide the new trim on and screw in the bottom two screws.

After searching on the internet for a very long time, we were almost ready to order the screws "blind" (no picture) from Sears for almost $10.oo per screw. Then I stumbled onto this website and found exactly what I was looking for, with a detailed description AND a picture!! Not to mention a price that was two thirds less than Sears..for TWO screws. Now the oven door is secure and we are no longer on our search for the right screws.

Removed racks and floor in oven, exposing ignitor assembly. Disconnected 2 wires at electrical connector plug. Removed 2 screws holding ignitor in place, removed bad ignitor, installed new ignitor in reverse order. Tested for ignition, all worked fine.

I went online and discovered the repair method and schematic of the range. I removed the spark module after first removing the upper rear panel cover and replaced with the new part module ordered from your company and now the spark module operates all the gas elements when they are turned on thus lighting the gas burners. My mother in law was thrilled, as she had been using matches and burning her finger tips,since the original range part malfunctioned. The only problem was the small screw from the original installation was not long enough , so it required some changes to get it affixed to the cabinet side.Thanks for the reasonable price and the right part for the job!!

removed broiler pan
removed oven bottom plate
removed burner cover
unplug and remove igniter
reinstall igniter
clean and reassemble

I removed the bottom srtip. Installed the new bottom strip, snapped in the side pieces. [The old ones screwed in.] Replaced the original handle. Ready to reinstall door.

After removing the back of the stove, the old light socket was fairly easy to remove. The new socket slipped in place and the wires reattached and now the oven has a light again. A very simple process--especially for someone who's not an expert in repairing appliances.

Found that the two screws securing the bottom had rusted away allowing me to just lift the old bottom out. The new one fit in place exactly and really did not need the screws. Done in 2 minutes.

Everything worked perfectly---thanks to the suggestion of your call center agent. She suggested that since the replacement door handles were no longer available, I should consider repainting them--it worked like a charm. Please tell her she was a life saver. We rent that house in Fl and my returning tenants had complained about the discoloring refer handles. Thank you

removed the two screws that held the cook top on and moved it enough to get to the light switch. Removed the switch and tested with multimeter. Pulled the two wires out of the mounting hole and insulated with elect. tape. Replaced the cook top and installed the two screws that hold it in place. Located the switch at PartSelect on line and ordered it. When the switch came in (the next day), I connected the two wires, and snapped the switch in place, and I was back in business.

remove the hinge stays they just clip in
remove the door. took out screw at bottom of door.
replaced trim.
replacing the door was a problem i didn't have pins to put in the spring loaded hinges so i used nails to hold hinge in position.
so make sure to open oven door first insert pins or nails in hinges then remove door. It would have took 10 min. to do.

First I Pulled the oven away from the wall and turned off the gas and unplugged the oven. I then removed the bottom drawer and the oven door to get easy access to the ignitor location. I then removed the oven racks and the 2 shields which cover the ignitor with a screw driver. I then removed & unplugged the ignitor and 2 screws holding the ignitor in place. This all took about 15 minutes. I then reversed the process and installed and assembled the oven. It only took about 25 min in total time and low and behold the oven worked again. Amazing the technology stuff. My wife things I am a genius...again. Not!!!

Removed back upper cover, unscrewed retaining screw from module. As noted in a comment from another do-it-yourselfer, I replaced screw with a longer one and reinstalled module. Note that the replacement part is not exactly the same as the old one(the wires are located differently), I noted the wire color codes with the slot number and reinstalled them in the same slot number. Works fine.