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Models > SAV205DAWW > Instructions

SAV205DAWW Maytag Washer - Instructions

All installation instructions for SAV205DAWW parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the washer repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the SAV205DAWW
61-75 of 158
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Washer was leaking on floor

  • Customer: Walter from Cairo, GA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 4 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
First, I printed all the diagrams on the Partselect site so I would know how things went together.

I removed the two screws at the bottom of the front panel and removed the panel by pulling the bottom out allowing the top to come off he retaining clips. I then used pliers to remove the two springs holding the front of the washer tub to the base. Then I removed the spring that attached to the idler arm and the motor. (I also took digital pictures of everything in case I forgot the routing of the belt, the location of springs, etc.) Next I loosened the clamps holding the inlet and outlet hoses to the pump. The water loss was minimal as my washer was still functioning, but I could see that if the washer died with a full tub, there could be a lot of water. I then slipped the 2 hoses off the pump. Next I removed the four bolts holding the motor/pump combo from the frame. I unpluged the electrical connector (on the top left side of the pump....it has a locking tab on top that must be depressed to remove it). Then tilt the bottom of the motor/pump combo up and forward to allow it to come out of the machine. Please note the routing of the belt for replacement later.

The pump has 3 screws (torx) that attaches it to the motor. In most cases, it seems the pump will seize to the motor shaft due to the heat of the motor over time. Since the pump is bad anyway, I simply chiseled it off the motor shaft using a flat blade screwdriver and hammer. It is tempting to put the screwdriver between the motor pulley and pump, but this will only bend the pulley.......I know from experience. It will take several good whacks but eventually the pump will come off. In my case the pump had leaked enough that the end of the motor shaft was slightly pitted and corroded. I took a file and cleaned up the end so the new pump would slide on properly. I also put a small amount of machine oil on the motor shaft and wiped it good just to make the pump easier to mount. I then slide the pump on the motor shaft, replaced the 3 torx screws (make sure you have the belt in the right position.....one run of it goes inside the pump mounting stud.) I then reversed the process.....remounted the motor/pump combo, reattached the power connector, replaced the belt on the pulley beneath the drum, reattached the idler tension spring, reattached the 2 hoses and clamps, and reattached the 2 drum holddown springs. I then inserted the top of the front panel on the two clips and tilted it back down into place and replaced the 2 screws at the bottom front.

All in all, it was very easy..........taking only an hour or so. My belt was still in good condition, but I could advise you to go ahead and replace the belt while you are in there. It also could be practical to replace the pulley on top of the pump, as it is easy to bend. I did bend mine, but managed to straighten it back out.

After completing the repair, the washer works perfectly with no leaks.

Idler wheel seperated from bushing,snap ring came off

  • Customer: William from Westmoreland, NH
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Socket set
  • 4 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
First always unplug appliance.Then I shut off the water.I took the front off the washer.Saw the idler was the problem.Ordered parts and new belt.Removed motor assy,and removed pump.Checked impellors and pump bearing.Installed new parts for idler.Installed belt.Re-installed pump to motor,then re-installed entire assy.Turned on water and ecectricity.Ran complete cycle to test.Re-installed front cover.

Leaky drain hose

  • Customer: Keith from Little Elm, TX
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 3 of 4 people found this instruction helpful
First I tried to lift the lid on the top of the washing machine. I eventually realized this model doesn't open up from the top. I removed two screws on the very bottom of the front panel of the washing machine. Then pulled gently downward to release the front panel from the two clips holding it in at the top. Once the front panle was removed, I found I could easily access the drain hose and disconnect it from the pump by loosening the clamp screw. (Be aware, there is still water in the hose and pump that will run out onto the floor; I had a bucket close by and tried to catch most of this water, but its somewhat futile.) There are two additional hose clips one underneath the tub, and one on the back panel of the washer that hold the hose away from other mechanical parts. Once the hose is freed from those clips it could be removed from the washer by feeding the hose out the back panel. The new hose was then inserted and fed down inside the washer, attached to the pump, tighten the hose clamp screw, clip the hose to the other two clamps so it is out of the way of other parts, reattached the front panel and you're done!

One other note about PartSelect.com...A few days after ordering my part, I had an "International Transaction Fee" show up on my debit card statement. I panicked thinking my card number had been stolen only to call my bank and find out PartSelect is based in Canada.

Washing machine was vibrating excessively.

  • Customer: Michael from Canton, GA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 5 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
I had to take the entire tub assembly from the machine to replace the milkstool which had been crushed by the weight of over-loading the washer. It took about 2 & 1/2 hours to complete the job, but it was well worth the effort to save the expense of replacing the appliance. Part Select provide the right part as promised and saved me a lot of money. Thank you for your service.

Broken Selector knob

  • Customer: Michael from Venice, FL
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 3 of 4 people found this instruction helpful
Remover broken part with needle nose pliers and replaced knob. Less than thirty seconds.

Idler Pulley Wheel drop off

  • Customer: Bin Teng from San Leandro, CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 4 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
took the belt out and took the thing out and fixed then put it back.

Hole in Drain Hose

  • Customer: Mike from Lithonia, GA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 3 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
I disconnected the water supply line to washer and moved washer into open area. I removed the front panel of washer to gain access to drain hose. I removed hose and reinstalled new hose. I did turn the hose holder inside the washer as it allowed the old hose to rub against the housing support of the washer causing the hose to leak. I was glad that I read the article that someone mentioned in their repair. The new hose was somewhat difficult to maneuver through the back of the washer and through the part that held the hose; otherwise, it was rather easy. Thanks for the feed back on your web page.

Washer was not agitating

  • Customer: John from North Kingstown, RI
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Socket set
  • 2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful
Ipulled the front panel off and found that the brake pads had broken into pieces, ordered new pads. Two of the pads were accessed from the front of the machine and were relatively easy to replace by removing the two attaching bolts, spreading gap in area that they fit into with a plastic pry tool. I gained access to the third pad by removing the punch-outs on the side of the machine (circular). If I had not had these prepuched pieces available to me I would have simply cut an access hole in the rear of the machine with a jig saw, (who will ever see it).

belt kept falling off and makeing noise from belt

  • Customer: steven from tenafly, NJ
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful
pulled cover off face of machine to gain axcess
saw pulley had come off brass sleeve( Bad design should have had a larger washer on bottom to help support pulley ) would of prevented this problem
Removed motor to gain axcess to pulley and belt change . Keep a towel near by to catch any extra water still in hoses on lower pump

Leaking pump

  • Customer: Joseph from Goldsboro, NC
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Socket set
  • 2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful
1. unplug unit 2. remove front access plate 3. disconnect tension spring on drive belt 4. remove 4 motor mount screws 5. disconnect intake and return lines from pump using a pliers to decompress compression rings and sliding lines off. 6. Manipulate motor and loosen drive belt from bottom of tub and let it hang. 7. tilt motor bottom out exposing pump and remove 3 screws using TREX head driver and remove pump. 8. install new pump

Pump worn out - Leaking

  • Customer: Charles from Portsmouth, VA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
  • 2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful
Part received was correct (5 days ARO). Removed motor assy from unit (left wires connected). Found drive belt was also worn out & obtained a new one locally. Seperated old pump from rusted motor shaft using 2 screwdrivers. Had to use a file to lightly "polish" rust off motor shaft to install new pump. On-line parts diagram helpful in getting belt properly alinged to idler pully. Machine now runs smoothly, dosn't leak and sound like new. Wife happy (me too)!

Had to pull the motor to change the belt

  • Customer: John from Nesconset, NY
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 3 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
Unplugged washer from power source. Dissconnect the water supply. Take off lower panel. Undo big spring. Remove 4 bolts that hold the motor. Unplug the motor. remove motor and belt. While on the bench I regreased the Idler pulley. then reverse the procedure to reassemble

Washer broke belt & Idler pulley

  • Customer: Audie from Lexington, AL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Socket set
  • 2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful
First removed all screws with a nutdriver then lifted the body from the base. Removed the two hoses at the pump (be ready for excess water). Removed the 9/16 bolts (4) to drop the motor assy. I also took off the two front balance springs to have easy access. I at this point was able to remove the pulley and put new belt & pump on the motor. Remember to watch carefully to align belt. removing the idler pulley is a no brainer. Took about 45mins. to complete, a no pro job!!

Drain Hose had a crack and leaked

  • Customer: Bernard from Pinellas Park, FL
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Wrench set
  • 3 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
Removed front panel; loosened hose clamp at pump; removed existing drain hose. Easy part.
Installed new hose at pump and tightened hose clamp. Somewhat difficult.
1. Your hose design should be solid flexible rubber hose instead of corrugated type. Had rough time snaking hose to the pump.
2. Your future designs should have rubber hose or hard piping to the exit hole on the back panel and terminated in a male fitting, then connect flexible hose from fitting to drain line. Similar to "hot & cold " water connections.
3. For future customers- care should be taken installing the "black" portion ; it kinked on me 2 or 3 times because you have to keep rotating the entire hose to keep the "black" portion straight.

Loud Noise at Spin Cycle

  • Customer: Gary from North Aurora, IL
  • Difficulty: Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
  • 2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful
I read what the others had done and thought it was the lower bearing so I originally tore it down and replaced just the lower bearing.

Unfortunately, after 2 + hours of doing that and putting it back together, it still didn't fix the problem. So I read more reviews and others claimed to use this kit and that it fixed the problem. So I ordered the kit.

BTW, Parts Select rocks!!!! They get me the part within about 2 days every time.. Great Service! Thanks guys!

Anyhow, part came in, knowing how to tear this thing down now, I was able to get to where I needed to be within about 45 minutes.

2 things that were difficult.

The first was removing the plate at the bottom of the tub. This is the aluminum plate that looks somewhat like a spoked wheel. Maytag has a tool for this. Without it, you must go at it with a small punch on one of the spokes and carefully tap the seal until it turns. You may have to try it from different angles to loosen it up but it will eventually give way..

Once you get that off, the second little piece of joy is actually removing the seal from the bottom of the tub. Here again, Maytag offers a tool to remove this. Without it, and with years of this rubberized fitting mounted in this plastic tub and corrded with water and crap... you will need to create a bearing puller.

I did so with a 2X4 board straddled across the bottom of the tub. I used an 8 inch lag bolt, drilled a hole through the 2X4 and placed the lag bolt throuigh the board and through the center of the bearing. I attached a large washer and nut to the bottom side of the bearing and then began to tighten the bolt on the other side of the board. By tightening the bolt, the board created alot of tension but not enough still to seperate it from the tub. With the tension on the bearing, I turned the tub over and tapped it with piece of wood the size of the bearing and a rubber mallet. It popped right off. The rest was just reassembly.

Don't forget to remove the sticker backing on the felt gasket to hold the gasket in place while you screw the tub back together...

The good news... Super quiet! So, about 3 hours.... (I had to come up with the idea to remove the bearing and build it) and it's all done..

Yeah.... Fun Saturday.
All Instructions for the SAV205DAWW
61-75 of 158