RVM1535DM2WW Hotpoint Microwave - Instructions

remove old film, apply new film. real easy. no magic

The switches are not the problem! The problem is in the tolerences of the latch housing. I have ordered two new housings (Upper & Lower) and will see if the tolerences are closer. If not I will try epoxying a shim to the plate that operates the microswitches. The other option is to file the mounting slots of the housing to allow adjustment, which would be iffy,keeping them from moving with use. The exploded drawings really need to be clarified. The scale is way too small. It was extremely difficult to pick out the individual parts of the mechanisiam.

Went to onlin source, found a couple youtube videos then went to the GE site which had a not-too-easy that find trouble shooting guide. It was extremely helpful as it described a fuse as a fix 80% of the time for touch paid failure. I really didn't believe it would b a fuse, but it was the cheapest fix, $8. I got the fuse and was surprised to fine there are two of them on this model. I took a guess and replaced the top one ( neither fuse was black or burned to indicate a failure but the top one was a bit mor greyish). put it all back together and it works fine.

took off upper grille and touch pad and removed the old line fuse and replaced with a new fuse ...turned on it is working fine...sources of help: UTube and GE manuel

First i pick up all the tools that I thought would be needed for the door handle replacement. I looked at the exploded diagram online, but did not know how to remove the inside panel to expose the handle mounting screws? I did not want to break any more plastic parts by pulling to hard on the old weaken parts. I have 30 years experience repairing office and banking equipment but never took a microwave apart.. Next I read two reviews by two different women explaining how easy it was to take off the inside panel with a butter knife---yes a butter knife. The knife worked great and I never would have used a knife. Everything just unsnapped from there on. Thank You to those women.

All electrical worked (fan, lights, control panel) door switch was broke. Pulled the oven out. Took out two big screws from the cabinet above. (be careful not to drop oven)Set the oven on kitchen counter. Took off five screws that held the vent cover. Removed vent cover. Took out one screw that held the control panel. Lifted, turned and slid the panel into the space below so I could get to the upper door switch. Replace door switch and re-assemble.

I unscrewed the entire undersurface of the microwave (I didn't do this before!) and replaced the light socket. Easy job and I'm glad the part was still available.

Had trouble isolating the problem, so I had a repairman identify the problem, then I ordered the part and replaced it myself.

Removed screws holding the grill in place. Removed air filter, removed screw holding plate under the filter in place. Reached in under fan cowling to find the thermostat cut-out. Disconnected the two wires. Put the new thermostat in place. Replaced screws plates and filter in reverse order.

Rather than open access door took off bottom (5 screws) This gave more room as the microwave is mounted under the wall cabinets over the stove.

First removed the inner panel. Use kitchen knife. Panel is snapped on. I could not remove hinge end so just pulled panel back. Two screws are then easily removed . Then the handle end top and bottom of outer panel must be snapped off. I could then get enough clearence to remove the two other screws which go thru outer panel only. I replaced the handle and reassembled in reverse order.

The motor shaft was broken. This microwave is mounted over a stove. first unplug the microwave. I removed 6 screws from the bottom to gain access to the turntable motor. Remove single screw holding motor. Rotate motor to remove. unplug wiring plug from motor. Reverse procedure to install new motor. Note that spindle for turn table goes on from above and is indexed to motor.

I was told by 2 different appliance technicians that the crumbled/melted light socket could not be replaced which meant replacing the entire microwave (expensive!). Other posters on your sight described the repair steps and I gave it a try. The hardest part was probably figuring out which switch in the fuse box belonged to it (now marked clearly). It was a simple matter of unscrewing the bottom panel of the microwave to access the socket, pulling the crumbled/melted unit off and shoving the new one on. I can't believe the repairmen didn't want any part of even giving it a try.

Took cover off, noted the two side by side switches easily visible and we hought one of these was responsible. Then son noted a third switch at the top of the plastic assembly which inserts at an odd angle. When it was inspected signs of a previous short showed up with burnt contact points. Reinserted at same odd angle as there were guide holes, closed things up and oven worked 100%. Great prompt service and great website!! We will use you again

Primary door switch was shorted and blew the fuse when the oven was plugged in. Replaced primary door interlock switch.

first i remove the screw, then removed the lens assembly (really a frame) bent the feet out of the way, slid the old lens out and the new one in, bent the feet back in place and inserted the assembly into place replaced screw. the killer is a day later it was broken again, think the lens can't handle the heat from the oven below or the lights above. you guys where great fast and exact match part but the ge design is flawed