RVM1335BC001 Hotpoint Microwave - Instructions

Using the exploded parts view I removed three Philips screws from the lower plate (the screws are located on the front edge of the panel that holds the air filters). Slide the lower panel forward slightly and allow it to swing down. Remove the amphenol connector to the motor and hood lights by pressing the sides of the plastic clip and place the lower panel to one side out of the way. f you intend to clean the lower panel in a dishwasher remove all electrical components before doing so (bend back the clips holding the wires in place and remove the lamps, remove the Philips screws holding the lamp holders); note: these are the only screws with a short shoulder on them, make sure they go back in the same place to hold the lamp holder to prevent damage to the holder). Remove the Philips screw holding the turn table motor in place. Slide the entire motor assembly to one side to allow the motor shaft to slide off the coupler. With the oven door open, remove the old coupling by sliding it to one side to clear the retainer. Insert the new coupling and replace the motor making sure you align the motor shaft with the flat side of the coupling. If you have cleaned the lower assembly in the dishwasher or by hand make sure all parts are dry before reassembly (reinstall the lamp holders and the wiring assembly. Reconnect the amphenol connector (it can only plug in one way by nature of design). Slide the back of the lower assembly into the channel at the back of the oven and replace the three screws holding the lower panel in place.
Now you have saved your self the cost of a service call or possibly a new microwave you can use this as supporting evidence that you can afford the new 20" monitor for your PC. Test out the repair and make your spouse a cup of hot coffee or cocoa to brag on yourself and make your sales pitch.

after dealing with the turntable in my microwave not turning for a couple years i decided it was time to fix it.Checked it out and found the turntable motor bad.I looked on line for pricing and availability,ordered the part from partselect.Two days later the part was at my door.Thirty minutes, a few screws and a couple spade connectors later, my microwave was working like brand new.Making myself and more impotantly my wife real happy.It was a very easy repair,next time I won't wait so long!

I replaced the switch at the bottom per instruction. I had both switches. I think it was the monitor door switch.It works fine now. Thank you Part Select .

unplugged power cable / unhooked front vent / unscrew the monitor panel / slide up to dislodge / take the fuse out and put in the new one in / fuse is located right in front of monitor panel once its open might be covered by wirings / you can unpin the cables from the panel to make it easier for you just make sure to put it back properly or you can have somebody hold the panel for you. Installing the fuse is easy waiting for the parts is crazy......

Took the front panel off, played with the switch while it was plugged in to verify the switch was bad. I actually was able to tweak the switch just right to keep the microwave working while the part was being delivered. When it came it was just removing two small screws and replacing. Very easy.

Removed one screw, slid frame out and removed broken glass. replaced bulb. The hard part was slidding the frame back in place and starting the screw. We were very surprised at the fast delivery of the parts, thank you. The sad part, a few days later the glass broke again. We are trying to get to the people at GE to solve our problem. We feel like that will not happen, we just do not have the time to stay on hold on the phone waiting for someone to solve our problem. Will reorder glass.

I purchased the fuse and 3 door switches from PartSelect. Replaced the fuse first but that did not solve the problem. Then I replaced the 3 door switches and problem solved!! So fuse only cost $5.00 so glad I have a new fuse in there as well. To see how to replace door switches see videos on utube!!

UNPLUG MIRCOWAVE.REMOVE THE HARDWARE, COVERS, AND DECONNECT THE CONTROL PANEL. REMOVE AND REPLACE VENT THERMOSTAT. REINSTALL EVERTHING IN REVERS ORDER. WORK FINE NOW. ADVISE IF YOUR FIRST TIME GET INSTRUCTIONS ON INTERNET SEARCH OR YOU TUBE

Handed the part to my son. He unscrewed 5 screws in the base of the microwave, it dropped down. The light mechanism was clearly in view. With the exception of some corrosion on the old piece, it was simple to remove and replace, put back together, screw back up and all worked fine.

Unscrewed numerous screws holding the "body/shell" to the microwave. Removed body. I then unplugged top door switch, replaced it with new one, and "tested" the new one. I fixed our $400 convection micro with an $18 switch. NICE!

I used the internet and your directions to complete the repair. It was easy!

removed electrical wires, unscrewed holder, inserted holder, attached wires, added bulb, and put cover back on.

Followed the online videos to enter the cavity to the switch holder. Noticed right away the dreaded capacitor was in back right corner behind where the touch pad had been removed. I isolated the capacitor with an old computer mouse pad for extra safety. Took some manipulations to get the switch mount out from behind the wire bundles. Once out front, easy to use small flat blade screwdriver to release each switch and replace with matching new switch. Only one switch was bad but replaced all three. Back together and working great.

GE slate microwave approximately 2 years old. Completely dead. Power to outlet was good, no gfci was tripped. Started checking fuses, 250v ceramic fuse good, two fuses at the bottom behind the control panel. One on the left labeled 12 on the diagram tested no continuity. One on the right labeled 13 tested good with continuity. So i figured number 12 was bad. Got the part and turns out to be the wrong fuse. Part number was the same but the terminals were the wrong size. Im pretty sure GE has the diagram labeled wrong because i ordered number 13 and it was the right size. Just an FYI if you are ordering those fuses for your microwave that 12 and 13 on the diagram may be reversed. Anyway received the right fuse and tested the new fuse and it tests open continuity and did not fix my issue. Microwave is still dead. There are two other fuses in the back that i need to check so hopefully i find the issue. Hope this helps someone, remember one fuse behind the control panel tests open and the other tests closed and thats how it is suppose to function.

Remove top air grate via 2-screws. Remove metal top panel behind grate that's above bulb via 1-screw. Bulb is exposed and can be un-screwed. DONE